The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Quick POR Questions

I can answer some of the questions, I used a brush and it levels itself really well, I did find a couple of bristles in the paint due to using a cheap brush, this stuff is really thin so I am not sure it needs to be thined for a aprayer but be real careful and use full breathing gear because this is nasty stuff when spraying. I threw the brushes away so I don't know much about cleanup.
Hope this helps.

Ed

I just did some of my parts this past weekend. I brushed it on and it flows out really well. If you brush it on, don't do it in really hot direct sun. It will flow better if it is a little cool.(I did mine outside)If you spray it you better follow safety instructions.It contains isocyanates and when sprayed is a lot more dangerous than when brushed. I know a couple people who have had isocyanate poisioning and its no fun not being able to breath.

So far I have brushed my chassis,the underside of my floor,rear cab (below the window) and the inside of my roof. There are no visible brush marks.
As Ed said, watch out for bristles and make sure your paint area is as dust free as you can get it.
POR-15 dries as hard as nails and covers really well(80% solids)
Mix it well and don't overload your brush,so sags and runs shouldn't be a problem. A little goes a long way!
Check out Alan's pics. Nice job!
Good luck!
Jock.

i made up a couple of cheap brushes by cutting the head/bristle off and wiring it at a right angle to get up into some of the hard places a regular brush CAN'T get to.
i am to about the restro work BUT my painter did NOT paper/mask the frame very well and i now have lots of overspray.
S)-(!|
Just BE SURE when you close the lid of the can you place a plastic bag or ?? over the can BEFORE placing the lid on top.

I went to the POR-15 web page and found the following info MSDS and Directions for people who don't read directions
Also will give you some pictures of where I brush painted some of my parts

You can spray it, needs to be thinned no more than 10% with the POR 15 thinner (also used for cleanup). You spray just like you would with regular paint. Use caution, as it will run like crazy if you go too heavy. And a high quality charcoal filter, or better yet, a fresh air, respirator is a musst when spraing this stuff. Even if just doing a small area without a mask will make you very sick! Don't ask how i know this.

I agree with all of the above. Will add and it has been mentioned before, it is better to order several small cans instead of the larger ones. The larger ones (quart and bigger) will have a tendency to start curing if you use it right out of the can. The product will start to thicken and brush marks will be the result. I had problems with the product setting up in the can before I could use the whole quart even after sealing as POR recommends.

I've had good...but limited sucess storing Por15. Someone here had what I thought was a good idea. Drill a small hole in the center of the can and when you get what you want stick a piece of duct tape over the hole. Beats wrestling the lid. I think this is a good way to pour out just a little as you go along to prevent it from starting to set up.

'''''''You can spray it'''''''

BUY/ USE the VERY BEST respirator money can buy

no joke

I've brushed POR-15 Chassis Coat Black (UV resistant) on the frame, under the cab, and inside fenders; and sprayed it on the running boards. In all cases, I've been very happy with the results. The stuff is tough and looks great. Although the can says nothing about temperature, I recommend applying it when the temperature is between 55F and 90F. I wasn't happy with the flow at temperatures below 55F. When spraying, I use 10% lacquer thinner with no problems. I also use lacquer thinner for clean-up with no problems. Buy it in quarts so you only open one quart at a time. You spend a little more, but it's worth it.

I just used some POR-15 gray paint on a big belt sander yesterday.. now I have some questions.

It's a big industrial belt sander, stands 6' tall.
1) First I disassembled it completely and had it soda blasted to remove the paint, and they sandblasted some of the difficult areas.
2) Next I washed it with the Marine Clean and rinsed with water.
3) Then wet it with Metal Prep for about 30 minutes, and rinse with water again.
4) let it all completely dry in the sun
5) Finally I started to paint on the POR-15, working primarily on the base of the machine which is also a coolant tank, I wanted it all sealed up inside so it does not rust again.
I was able to apply my second and third coats while the preceding coat was still almost dry, but still a little tacky, as the instructions say.

All the little parts got at least a first coat, and then some a second before completely dry.
By this point I had used a whole quart, and had long sense run out of daylight, so I quit for the evening.

Now the questions:
Can I continue to apply my second and third coats to the remaining parts the next day, or am I out of luck because it has already curred?
From reading the instructions it says to wet sand first with 500 grit, I tried a scotch brite, hardly a mark, then the 500 grit wet sand paper, and water of course, still does not seem to cut it much, and is a lot of work. Can I really apply my last coats after the first have cured, and will they stick? is the wet sanding effective and is it necessary?

I had also planned to assemble the machine and give the visible parts one final coat with regular oil base paint.
But I'm thinking nothing will stick to this stuff??

there was no way I could have put one coat of POR-15 on, 3-5 hours later given it a second, then again a 3rd, next a "dusting" of primer, then a real coat of primer, and finally a top coat, how many hours are in a day again??

Right now I am wishing I had never ordered this POR-15 stuff, I hate painting to start with, but this stuff seems to be very user unfriendly.

Thanks,
Grigg

I'd give it a scuff with 320 or finer [dry] and do it, just needs some 'tooth', doesn't like going on a gloss surface [like itself, cured], and it is supposed to be cured in under 5 hours ... but it's just paint

from their info page:
CAN I PAINT OVER POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS?
Absolutely, POR-15 will accept all paints including lacquer-based paints.

you could try a bit on an out of sight area first, waiting longer on the rest won't matter now that it's dried

Bill

Grigg, Try wetting a rag with Lacquer thinner and rubbing the por15. It should kill the shine and give it some tooth. Works for me.

Well, enough testimonials on Por-15! I am sold on Eastwood's rust encapsulator. Also Loctite makes a product called rust converter that when sprayed on rusty metal will neturalize the rust and convert the rust to black primer ready for paint. The positive part of all this is you won't need a hazmat suit to apply the stuff.

the guy at my local paint shop put some paste in acrylic enamel
and made a semi gloss for my chassis it looks real good. mine was
sand blasted and veriprimed so rust was not an issue. philip

you can get a primer from por 15 now ,it comes in a spray can or applied by brush it is called a tie primer and it is self etching and can be used over your dry coating and allow regular paint or more por 15 to be applied