The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Problems with transmission and axle? EDITED!!! CHECK NOW!!! EDITED AGAIN!!!

Alvin, I think it's too late for the diesel. As stated above I put some oil in the cylinders earlier today. Thanks and I was going to drain it all out yesterday since I was under there and couldn't get the drain loose, not that I tried very much. I'll do it later like you said. I'm curious, how could I situate the pry bar to get the most leverage. But you have to understand that I had to dig my way under the truck and also jack it up so I'm with limited space. I tried earlier with a BFPB(big freakin' pry bar, if you want to call it that) that's about 3ft long and I couldn't do much.

I have another question. If by chance my engine does get unstuck before Koolkar can get down here and I did get it started, would that help me be able to get the truck out of gear?

did you make sure you weren't trying to move one lever while the other was still in a gear position. Just trying to cover all variables.

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Drummin52, the transmission is stuck in third. Which if you're beside the transmission and the linkage third is the arm/ear closest to the engine, when pulled up towards the floorboard. Second is down towards the ground. And I can't get it out of gear with anything. I might be able to get the pry bar on it but I don't want to break anything.

Try putting a block of wood against the seat frame and with the clutch pushed to the floor jam it against the clutch pedal that will hold the clutch in the free postion.Just one thing DO NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS NEAR THE CLUTCH while trying to turn the flywheel just use the prybar.If somthing gives and you get a finger in there, it will not be good.Doing that might also help you get it out of gear,because you can work the levers on the tranny.

OK now I understand a bit more whats wrong. The lever just won't move it out of gear, its stuck. Having the engine running may help, as the rotation may knock loose what ever is stuck and allow it to slide out of gear. Was there fluid in the transmission when it was parked? Im thinking from sitting, the shaft inside the transmission got gummed up or got a bit of corrosion and isn't allowing the gear to slide in and out of position.

Now im not sure if this is a good thing to do, so hopefully a more experience person will chime in with any words of wisdom, but if diesel fuel or automatic transmission fluid can help free up a stuck engine, what about a transmission. Top the trans case off with either diesel or at-fluid and let it sit for a few days up to a week and then completely drain it out. It might work.

Another thing you can try to get the trans out of gear is apply the clutch (and stick something between the seat and the pedal to keep it applied), jack up one of the rear tires off the ground (leave the other alone) and have someone rotate the tire in either direction while working the lever out of 3rd gear. The rotation could possibly do the same thing as the engine. Its worth a shot, anythings better than having to change the transmission.

Guys, how do you think I've been messing with the clutch? No way I could drag my mom out there! I've had to use a short 2x4 and two blocks to depress the clutch, and it works. Got a 15" pry bar to use for better maneuvering under the truck. Drummin, wouldn't it be better just to put gear oil that the transmission is designed for in there? I'll(when it dries, just rained about two inches) see if I can get the plugs out and find out if anything is in there.

I ran into the same problem with my '49 3100 when I got it. It had sat in a shed for close to 30 years. I ended up jacking the rear wheels off the ground. Then I took the shifter arms off the side of the transmission. Then take out the bolts that hold the side cover on and gently pry it loose from the transmission case. When you start to pull it off take a light and look into the transmission and make sure that the shifter forks are coming out of the transmission and staying put in the side cover. Then I pulled the drain plug out on the transmission and put a drain pan under it and got a can of penetrating oil out and started spraying the sliders and gears inside the transmission. You should be able to use a pry bar and carefully turn the transmission some. Don't get to carried away and if it doesn't turn on the easy side spray it some more and let it sit for a bit. You don't want to start breaking off teeth on the gears. It took me a few days before I got mine all freed up. You can go to Keith Hardys site and get a look at the shop manual. It will identify all the parts inside the transmission for you and also show you how to position the shifter forks in the side cover for reassembly.
Good Luck
Don

Don, what should I be turning when I turn the transmission, if I do?

You will be turning the transmission, if it is stuck in gear you will also be turning the rear wheels when you turn the transmission over. Thats why you want to have the rear wheels off the ground.

To you it may be obvious but my question was what in the transmission should I be turning? Or do I just try to rotate the wheels?

Ok, go in the side of the transmission thru the opening for the sidecover. Take a sturdy screwdriver or prybar and make sure the tip of it fits between the teeth on one of the main gears towards the front of the transmission. Then you can gently pry upwards or downwards against the case of the transmission to turn the gear cluster. You may need to use a block of wood between the handle of whatever your using to pry with to get enough leverage to turn things. Just be gently and don't get carried away so you break off teeth inside the transmission. The rear wheel or wheels will turn when you turn the transmission over. Just go a little bit at a time, and use lots of penetrating oil on everything.

YEAH! I did the thing with the pry bar and the engine was just barely stuck! It turned over so fast that oil was spurting out of the cylinders!!!! My question is, do I need to change the oil?

Uh, hmmm. My brother said that he wasn't sure. He said something about taking out the spark plug(#1) and put a screw driver in there and have someone turn the engine over(by hand, of course!) and see if it was set up right and something about compression or something to that effect. He said that if everything was right there, then to go to my FLAPS and buy an 80's set of points for the distributor, because those worked on my dad's Farmall. Not exactly sure if that will work, but he said they worked. And they do. At least on my dad's tractor.

Finally, YEAAA, one problem solved. Well, it seems the engine is turning free and turning easy. Yes, you will need to change the oil. When you take the plug out of the pan be sure you don't have your face close to where it will come gushing out. If there is much stuff drained by the rings then it went into the oil pan.
You mentioned that stuff came gushing out of the cylinders...... then the rings must be pretty tight as it did not all drain by the rings and into the pan. This is a good sign!!

I do not know about the points and before I started messing with things I would just clean and LIGHTLY sand the points to "clean them up". I know what your brother is talking about when he says get the #1 piston to the TBC.."top dead center" on the compression stroke to make sure its timed right.

My honest opinion is I don't think anyone "satotaged it" before it quit running or was parked so before you start messing with "everything" why not just try to get it running. If it won't start or shows certain problems while starting then further action may be needed. With your limited experience right now take it slowly and try to make sure you need something before you jump into it.
With the engine now turning it also opens up many things as to wether or not the tranny is locked up. Following the tranny situation I can't help but believe it might just be ok after all but needs someone that can tell if its truly stuck in two gears or if you just don't have the arms in the correct position yet.
with the clutch pedal OUT/UP does the wheels turn when you turn the engine?
Lots of things are now possible. I know more will chip in with the do's and don't do's but for now get a cold drink of Pepsi and pat your self on the back....YOU did it. The engine turns!

Yep, Alvin, I'm not as dumb as some people my BROTHER HAS SEEN. Like trying to drain the radiator by removing the bottom hose etc... Also, tranny is good as when I pushed in on the clutch, turned over the engine, and just lightly engaged the clutch the truck started to move. So I'm hoping that something in the transmission is just unaligned and that we can take it to my neighbors and they can work on it over there. That's when we get it running, anyway. And no I'm not messing with everything! And also, does the cap to the distributor come off when you unclamp it or do you have to do something? I'll look in the shop manual.

jdl: on the radiator cap you should be able to push down and turn it some and it stop. Then push down on it real good and twist some more and it should come off. When you loosen it it has a "catch" so that folks don't un-wittingly loosen it and the pressure blow it off and you get your face scalded. That first "catch" is so that the pressure can come off before you take the cap all the way loose.....I think you model ran a pressureized system but not sure. BUT I think the cap works the same way regardless. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY

So are you saying that the distributor cap is the same way? What you said is kind of foggy to me.

Never mind, got it off. Looks like the points were replaced, and even the cap, since the top looks brand new and the bottom is all rusted on the outside. Everything was clean inside and the only thing that I can see that would be bad is the condenser or the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. The connector has some corrosion and I'll clean it off later, and when it stops raining I'll check to see if the coil is bad, which could be since some things aren't made very well, and we've had experiences with brand new things going bad before.

TWO MAJOR BREAK THROUGHS IN TWO DAYS!!! My transmission is not stuck any more! I owe it to ACHIPMUNK for the idea! He asked if when the rear wheels were off the ground do the wheels turn when the engine is turning over, and when I did this I had the idea to push up on the lever and it came free! And my transmission works great now! I can shift through all of the gears with no problem! That is, after I realigned the gates in the shift box.


THANKS GUYS!!![font:Arial][/font]

Oh, I'm going to start a more specific thread for help with the distributor/coil.

Glad I could help.

I'm glad you helped too! And you said that you couldn't!

I'm impressed!