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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
Ok, so I have a 52 Chevy 1 ton that I really never plan on using it to haul anything especially nothing that would require that much load. I was offered a Ford 9in w/ posi out of a F-150 I was considering doing a swap in the rear end and even though I think it is slightly off length wise, I could get some nice meats back there. Is there any reason why this would not work and any thought on it.

Thanks

Last edited by Jackyl; 03/24/2008 12:53 AM.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
Is the pinion centered? Are you prepared to run Ford wheels or redrill the hubs?

Nine-inch Fords are such a common swap any more I don't think anyone will shoot you for running one.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
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L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
It'll be more than redrilling drums, you'll be going from 8 lug to 5. I don't think that the hub on the ford axle shafts would be large enough to be redrilled to the 8 lug pattern. Finding wheels in the correct size might be interesting. You'll also be giving up some braking power, as the drums will be much smaller. Might come out ok if you swap the front axle to a 1/2 ton and do a disk brake swap so that the wheels and braking system can be matched.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
What's your reason for wanting to change? Do you want a different gear ratio or posi? If it's posi, trade the Ford for an Eaton locker and keep the 8 bolt pattern so the front and rear wheels are still paired,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,897
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
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Posts: 1,897
I'd be almost willing to bet that you could find 9 inch axle shafts with the 8 lug pattern. I'm a 9 inch fan myself, but I don't think it is the right setup in a 1 ton truck.

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
2 Reasons first is getting a reasonable gear ratio for driving the truck and I really wanted to outfit the rear with wide tires.

More for the gearing than anything else. I just want highway speeds without the high cost. I saw swap kits but they are insanely priced, I can get the entire rear for 300 and the kit is 500+, so cost drives me also.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,881
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
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Since it sounds like you're not interested in keeping the dual rear wheels, the 9 inch should have enough load-carrying capacity for a bastardized truck. The main problem would be the number of lug bolts, unless you also plan to swap the front suspension system to 1/2 ton. What's the gear ratio of the proposed donor rear end?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Dec 2006
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
Not 100% sure but I am thinking it is a 3.54 rear, just to comment on the last message, that is correct, if it was up to me I would chop part of the frame and make it a 1/2 ton size with 28 or 32 wide tires in the rear. That would be more my style, but considering I do not have much cash the size stays and the flatbed goes on. I am certainly open to suggestions how to leave the rear that is on there and still get highway speeds without costing me an arm and a leg. I think either way I am going to run single wheels in the rear. Thanks

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
If you have the nine foot box, you might investigate swapping that for a shorter one. Would not be surprised if you could get a 1/2-ton frame and box in trade. People who want that box really want it!


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 8,351
You won't find 8 lug shaft, or at least not factory ones anyway. The 9" was strictly a passenger car and 1/2 ton truck diff. i suppose one could have some made, but that would defeat the purpose of trying to save some $$$.


Bill Burmeister
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
No this thing had nothing on the back when I got it, that is why I went with the flatbed.

Really though if someone knows how to get the highway speeds with what I have that would run me in the 300-500 range I am open to suggestions.

Thanks

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
Just reading another post, curious do they even make a kit for the 1 ton to bring it to more of a highway speed?

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
You can swap in a new rear diff from a mid 70's era truck to get there. I had a 78 that would cruise 65 mph all day long,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
So let me understand this, a differential from a mid 70s truck will work in the axle housing that I have and basically bolt right in? Sorry if I sound stupid, but when it comes to rears, I have now replaced the axles on 3 cars because I would not deal with trying anything with the internals, but this one, considering I have almost no money would be something I would consider trying. Thanks


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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