The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Sound pad

What do use to glue the sound deadening pad on the roof.Also what works best for pading.

You might try Spray Can - 3M Trim Adhesive 0890

3M Super 777 is what I used.

i have just used contact cement or 3M spray. or you could use dynamat. w/ this product, you do not need to cover the entire surface, just a portion to kill the tin noise.
the glue is on the back of this product.
http://www.b-quiet.com/?googleads
http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_introduction.html

A little pricy for what I'm doing with it.A friend of mine said I could try liqid nails.I guess i'll try that, the worst that could happen is it'll fall off and i'll have to try somthing else.That i'll try the 3M stuff.

Your idea for the Liquid Nails is a good one. It can be spread with a trowel, or you can go to the lumber yard and get some of the stuff they use to put down flooring and it'll work also. Both will handle the temp changes really well.

I know from expierience that liquid nails...well is TOUGH STUFF!
It will tear a 2X4 apart before givin up its grip once set.
Sounds like a good try, hey Experimentin is what it is all abought!
Good Luck an post on how it holds up please.
Tim

I used contact cement to attach an industrial insulation that resembles rubber ball material. I used to work construction, and this stuff was used on high temp boilers and the like. It should help keep the cab cooler, as well as deaden sound.

THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT YOU JUST DON'T WANT TO DO
thanks for the insite jim
How DO YOU REMOVE hi-tech sound deadening material?
JimGnitecki Wrench Fetcher Registered: 05 December, 2007 Posts: 155 Loc: Texas

''''' The previous owner of my truck applied a sound deadening product, similar to, but not the brand name "Dynamat Xtreme". This is the material that has a foil aluminum facing backed by a sticky 1/16" or so thick black layer that seld adheres to any metal floor, door inside, cab back, firewall, etc that you apply it to.
Now that I am stripping everything off to facilitate repainting, this material is a big problem, as it does not want to come off the metal surfaces to which it was applied.
I am able to pull MOST of it off using lots of muscle, supported at key "sticky points" by a putty knife, but it has been a bear of a job. I am down to just a few fragments, some of which still have the metal facing on them, and some that have only the gooey black residue.
I checked the Dynmat website, thinking they might have posted in their FAQ how you remove this stuff when necessary, but they did not.
I tried a bit of heat from a good, controllable heat gun, but while it helped in a few cases, in more cases it enocuraged the black compound to simply begin softening and sticking harder.
I have not tried solvent yet, as I don't want solvent residue leaking down into crevices, from which it could emerge during painting.
Has anyone out there had any experience removing this stuff? What is the easiest and least-residue-left method?
By the way, this stuff weighs about half a pound per square feet, and I figure I removed about 40 to 45 square feet of it - the trash bag was heavy! '''''

I just went to Home Depot or Lowe's and bought a roll of the aluminum bubble looking stuff (about 1/4" thick) in the insulation aisle. Really cheap. Then, when I went to install it in the cab roof area, I cut it a bit larger than the metal surface area and stuffed the excess iinto the crevices around the windshield, door frames and over the roof headliner brace. Didn't use any adhesive at all and installed the cardboard headliner. Doesn't bow or droop at all. If I need to get it out in the future (read mice) no problem.

I am looking at this spray on product for my 40 cab. Will cost $200+. Any thoughts? www.lizardskin.com