The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Over but no Drive

Gentlemen,
I am in need of some assistance with my O/D trans in my 57 .5T.
The orig o/d ate itself. I replaced it with an exact unit, 3spd with o/d. All internals looked real good. After install, I checked electricals as per a chevy truck manual I have. All checked out. But, driving doesn't check out. It will not drop into o/d as the old one did. It will free-wheel but not go into o/d. Anyone have sugestions on the problem?
tks,
dg

Do you mean it goes into neutral? Every OD I've driven will freewheel when in OD.

Probably the blocker ring is stuck/seized.

Go back and check out the electrical system again before you remove the trans. Any of the following components will give you the condition you described: Relay, govenor, solenoid, and blown fuse.
Fred

Sounds like the solenoid isn't shifting. My pa in-laws Ford did that until we replaced it. Works like a champ now,
Scott

Thanks for the response guys, I really appreciate it. The sol does "click" and is installed properly. I guess a blocker ring ck is in order. Also, does anyone have a source for new parts for this set up, if there is one.
tks again,
dg

In my 30+ years of working on these units I have found that 80% of the problems are electrical. The solenoid consists of two internal coils - a pull in coil and a hold in coil. It may click in but not stay in. I recommend taking it apart and cleaning the contacts, also check that is not full of oil which is common because the seals leak. Take the govenor out and put it in a vise and hook up an ohm meter. Run it up with a drill motor and see if it registers on the meter. I have also found the pin that holds the gear sheared off which will make it inoperative. Of course you could have a cut wire somewhere in the loom, a bad relay, and as previously noted internal mechanical problems. Parts are hard to come by but most internal BW components are shared by other manufactures. Ford, Rambler, Studebaker, & others used a BW OD so they can be a source for parts.
Fred

That part of your info, "...the internals looked real good." IF you've had it apart did you place the blocker ring in the proper position? It fits both ways but only works one way. You'll check the solenoid and it checks out but it can't engage the OD as the blocker ring won't let it.

Also the only way I have been able to put the tailshaft over the roller cam assembly is to use a broccoli rubber band to keep the large roller bearings in place. What did you use? A combination of centrifugal force and friction rid the rubber band of this assembly and it then becomes harmless within the transmission.

That's why i mentioned the blocker. Mine was in right, but it seized in the housing, tore a nice chunk out of said housing, and gave me the same problems described. I ended up having to get a second trans to strip for parts. Fortunatly, I was able to find one for about $100, which seems to be the going price.
I'll pass along another trick to get those rollers in. I use a heathy dose of Lubriplate on them. it's sticky enough to hold the rollers in place. I then just grabbed the rollers, holding lite pressure on them, and rotated the shaft to get them to drop into the low point of the ramps. the Lubriplate held them in place for assembly.

I am reasonably certain that he ring is in correctly but wioo do a test. I installed the rollers with a rubber band to hold them, which worked well. Heavy grease would'nt work due to spring pressure from the "cage", which shows to be good. I will focus on the solenoid even tho it worked well on the previous unit. I swapped it and the gov. switch as they were working well, so I thought.
tks again guys,
dg