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#377275 02/19/2008 9:18 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
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T
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Don't be mad. I just need direction. I looked in the search and couldn't find the exact answer so I will try here and take my lumps from the moderatorists.

The radiator has developed a few small (pinhole) leaks in my 1952 1/2 ton with a 235 engine. I think that the engine isn't the original. Most of you confirmed that months ago. I found all the cool tricks like putting black pepper or over the counter liquids in, but before I do that I researched biting the bullet and buying a new radiator. The new ones aren't cheap but I'm just looking at options.

My question is this: How will I know if the new one will fit where my existing one is, if in fact the radiator I have now is the original? It looks like the one I have now is too small for the mounting brackets it is sets in. In otherwords, the upright brackets have a lot of space between the brackets and the unit itself. Writing this I realized that measurements (HxWxD) of old and new will help me. I'm just a bit lazy today and wanted to get my post count up.

I will measure tomorrow but if any of you folks have some ideas, shortcuts, or buyer bewares, I will be all ears.

Thanks!

Mitch
PS Should have I posted this in the Engine & Driveline forum?

Last edited by Tangovino; 02/19/2008 9:20 AM.
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C
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If it were me, I'd buy the correct radiator for that truck and install it. It doesn't matter if you now have the "correct" radiator or not. At least you'll know that a new replacement should fit.

If someone hacked in a different radiator, you can hack in the correct one and probably a lot easier.


Woody
Your Brother in Bolthood

My 1951 half-ton 'Ol Red

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Mitch,
Hey Bud does it look like This ? I got it in Vegas at Tuckers, give them a call or swing by and check them out (if you haven't already)
Todd


Some people are like Slinkies, Their not really good for nothing... But they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs.

1951 3100 350 TBI Gallery Toddzilla... "$old"


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Todd:

Yeah, that's it. I stopped by Tucker's today and got the measurements. Theirs will fit so I'm just going to get it. Thanks!

Mitch

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,953
S
'Bolter
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Before taking drastic measures why don't you pull the rad and take it to a good rad shop for an inspection and evaluation. I had a persistent leak in my heater core (the round type) and finally left it with a guy who knew what he was doing and fixed it. That was 2 years ago.
As far as all the snake oil remedies, in my opinion, don't bother.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
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1989 Caprice
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oldblu49'

Thanks for the advice. I kind of figured the snake oil stuff was a last chance effort. I just found a guy in town to take a look at my existing one. Heck, look at it this way...I get the delight in knowing what it's like to remove and replace a radiator. Even it it's just my old one that's fixed.

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'Bolter
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Removing the rad is very easy. 3 bolts either side with captive nuts. Undo the hoses and lift it out. If you get any coolant on the ground make certain you dilute it well with water as it could be fatal to dogs or cats who might lick it for the sweet taste.
Just be careful lifting it up that you don't hit the rad with the fan blade. You could put a piece of corrugated cardboard there to protect it.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice
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Posts: 120
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Oldblu49,
Thanks for the comments. Maybe this weekend I'll pull it. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Mitch

Joined: Feb 2008
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L
New Guy
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yeah like old blue said i would take it to a shop and have it checked out you can usually just braze the holes and i will hold longer than the rest of the radiator I've fixed a couple of my radiators that way and it generally works out pretty well the shop will tell you whether its worth it or not.


to much to do to little time to do it all
McAllen, TX

1948 Chevy Loadmaster flatbed fire truck
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'Bolter
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This is the first time I have heard of a professional willing to repair one of the old circular heater cores. Those kind of people are rare!


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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My local radiator guy repaired my circular core, but said that most are not worth working with. He also told me that replacement new ones are very expensive. Glad I did not have to find out.

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W
'Bolter
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I had the radiator shop re-core my radiator several years ago. It cost about $200 as I remember.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
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truckernix,

OK now you have me guessing. "Cicular heater cores."? Mines rectangular and is the measurement posted in Tucker's Catalog. Is there circular coils mounted inside the rectangular mount?

Mitch

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
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They are talking Heater Cores not Radiators. Totally different deal.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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My heater core was a circular style after market heater. Western Auto and other stores used to sell them. My old rectangular radiator was shot, so had new core put in it. Never heard of a circular radiator except for heater cores.

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New Guy
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yeah there are no circular radiator cores only circular heater cores. radiators are always alot easyer to deal with than heaters. anyhow just thought i would help clear that up


to much to do to little time to do it all
McAllen, TX

1948 Chevy Loadmaster flatbed fire truck
http://rides.webshots.com/album/562569229snLyQV?vhost=rides

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