The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Pertronix Ignitor Install?

Was just wondering if anyone has replaced their stock 235 points with the Ignitor without removing the bakelite stock point spring/condensor mounting block. Was thinking about tying in the black wire to that terminal.

That way, if for some reason the Ignitor failed, all you'd need to do was pop out the Ignitor/baseplate, drop the points back in and re-attach the spring and condensor wires to the original mount points on the stock mounting block.

A quick pass with an air cut-off wheel would open a spot on the distributor body for the positive wire to exit the distributor and hook up on the + side of the coil.

Dave

I just installed the Pertronix on my 230, and put the original points, condenser, and points plate in the box and back in the toolbox. Should anythjing happen to the electronics, it won't take but a couple of minutes to go back to the original to keep me rolling. And the warranty on the Pertronix is for 30 months, so if anythings going to happen, I feel covered.

I basically do what Tramp does. I took off the '54 mounting bolt/bakelite-block and keep it in a bag in the glove-box with a set of points and a condenser. On long trips, I carry a spare distributor with all new tune-up parts (luckily this spare distributor fits my three trucks).

Tim

To answer my own question...I've installed the Pertronix Ignitor in my 1960 235 engine. The bakelite block has to be removed so that the mounting plate for the pickup can be fastened down.

Was amazed at the timing correction I had to make to get it back on the mark after installing the Ignitor. No noticeable change in performance as I retained my stock internal resistor coil and steel-core wires. Will add the points components to the 300 pounds of spare parts I normally lug around....."Be Prepared"...works for me!!

Dave

I just bought a kit and was wondering does the washer go above or below the ring magnet????

The magnetic trigger ring goes on first and the plastic spacer ring goes on top of those distributors which use a short shank rotor. It takes up any space between the top of the trigger ring and the bottom of the short shank rotor when it is seated in the alignment notch. If you happen to have the longer shank rotor, you won't need to use the spacer as the bottom of the rotor rests on the top of the magnetic trigger ring.

Dave