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| | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 | Can anybody out there provide me with some photos of how the door stops are supposed to work? I bought replacement door stops and new brackets (that connect to the doors) from Jim Carter's because both of mine were gone when I got the truck. I did a quick test fit and they are extremely tight and the design seems to be missing something. The new metal brackets rub against the metal of the cab/door jam where the come through. Is this correct? Are they supposed to rub and are they supposed to be theat tight?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Sheridan; 02/11/2008 4:50 AM.
Tim Sheridan 1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it. In the Gallery | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 | bump....anybody out there able to assist on this one?
Tim Sheridan 1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it. In the Gallery | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 100 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 100 | Hi,
I have a 41 3/4 ton with working doors. I've responded to your email with pictures of the handbrake parts.
Hopefully these are of use, if not let me know what pictures I am missing.
Cheers
For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible. 41 Chevy | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | I am at the same spot with my '40. The Jim Carter pieces seem to fit very tight. They will definitely chip the paint where they come thru the jambs. Anyone help us out on this ???
Thanks Guys. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 629 | Hi,
I have a 41 3/4 ton with working doors. I've responded to your email with pictures of the handbrake parts.
Hopefully these are of use, if not let me know what pictures I am missing.
Cheers This was helpful. It does appear that it is metal to metal contact which would rub the paint. I think the first step is to flatten the new parts to lessen the rubbing. I am also wondering if there was originally some sort of insert that wnet in this area to prevent the metal to metal contact?
Tim Sheridan 1947 First Series Chevy 1/2-Ton"Liberty Series" - "Art Deco" - Whatever you'd like to call it. In the Gallery | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 553 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 553 | Mine is metal to metal contact. I didn't flatten it out, used it the way it came. I keep a light coat of grease on it. That makes a big difference. john.
Last edited by steppenwood; 02/13/2008 3:37 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 1,048 | Yup….Mine are metal to metal too. My ’41 came with only one door stop so I purchased one from Chevy’s of the 40’s. It came with a rubber pad inside of the spring stop to prevent it from collapsing too far. However the rubber pad would not let the metal pass through the opening in the door post without significant force on the door. I removed the rubber pad and now it works fine.
As far as metal to metal, when you think about it the door hinges are the same, steel hinges and steel pin.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 451 | Kip mentions my problem. I have one door that works fine and the other closes on a whim - usually when I am in the way. Metal to metal contact as well. The working door has as rubber pad inside the kick paneland drive side nicknamed the "pincher" has none.
Brett | | |
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