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#368043 01/30/2008 2:45 PM
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
C Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
I've got a M4ME electric choked Quadrajet from an 84 Truck with a 305 on top of my newly rebuilt 350 Chevy. Cold morning starts are a b*'@#&. It starts ok but is a bugger to keep running when placed in gear at idle. Runs great when warmed up. This carb is listed for both the 305 and the 350 for that year. Let me start right off by stating that I am no carb guru and am a total neophyte when it comes to qjets. Looking at my Haynes manual doesn't help. I'm seriously contemplating a visit to my FLAPS and replacing the electric choke with one of those universal kits that convert it to manual pull choke. After all, my truck is a 56, so the pull choke would not be out of place. Any thoughts or suggestions? Also, wondering if this is the best carb given that it was set up for the 305 and is now on a 350. I am running Summit 1102 cam, headers, A/T, 2 1/2" exhaust with Flowmasters and a 2.73 rearend for fuel economy. Help, please!!

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
After working on the Qjet on my wifes 307 and having to tear it apart 3 times Im of the opinion that they are a WONDERFUL carb. The reason so many people have issues with them is they dont know how to work on them, hence me tearing mine apart 3 times...

It took me around 3 weeks to have the choke set on that 307 properly, constantly messing with it in the mornings. I have the heat spring and now that its set right I love it. That carb was a great upgrade.

Theres a great book called 'How to rebuild and modify Quadrajet Carbs' by Cliff Ruggles that Carbking and some other guys pointed out to me.

Good luck, Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
When I bought my truck the Q-jet was on it.The choke was wired open.For about $12 a manual kit solved the problem,and appears original in the dash

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
With the right adjustments & the carb in good shape the choke should work good. First make shure there are no vacuum leaks. Check the base gasket & make shure all unused openings are capped off. Adjust the idle jets by turning them in slowly till the engine starts to slow down, Then back them up till it runs smooth. There is a screw on the pass. side of the carb that adjust the fast idle speed. You have to have the engine off & open the throttle to turn it.The choke plates should close up all the way when the engine is cold. When you start the engine the choke should open about halfway by the vacuum choke pull off. The tention should stay on for afew minutes & gradually open due to the electric heat in the coil. If adjustments dont fix it you may have to ohaul it. The float level could be low or the metering rods stuck. Be shure & don,t leave the key on without the engine running when it is cold unless you have a choke switch. The choke heats up & goes off too soon. The manual choke kits are junk.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
G
Shop Shark
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G Offline
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 77
Does the haynes manual provide a specific angle for the choke plate and settings for the choke pulloff? If so, you can purchase a choke angle gauge from a NAPA auto parts or a thexton distributor. Once you set the correct angles for the choke, it should run fine.


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87 GN, and new toy: 1955 Chevy 3200 pickup, soon to have: 383, Cola crank, Childs/Albert 6 inch rods, Brownfield heads, 10:1 KB hypers, CompCam 284 Extreme Energy, Tilton Plate transmission realignment and built Turbo400.

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