The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 292 to Build

I just found a 292 for $100. I am thinking on rebuilding this thing to see if I can make it run 11's or better in the 1/4.
Anyone had any experience in 'trickin' out an inline to race? Any pointers?
I am figuring the $100 will be the least amount of money I will spend on ANY single part, with the exception of spark plugs.

Get a copy of Santucci's book on inline sixes. has lots of info. The on-line book stores have it. So does www.inliners.org

Thats a really good book, lots of performance tips

Check is in the mail. Thanks for the tips.
It seems like everything I have read so far, that there's a lot of difference on performance on the twin carbs, tri carbs, single or two barrel, Rochester vs. Carter or Holley, etc.

The kind of power you are looking for will be very hard to handle on a everyday basis. 292's will make lots of power when built right, BUT it will come with a high price tag. First off, get the book from the above post and read it very carefully. You will start to see why it cost so much, trick heads, cams, intakes, carbs..... Plus these race type, high HP engines run at a very high rpm, 7 to 9 thousand! The straight six was built for low rpm torque. You can boost the power band by adding more fuel and better breathing, but each thing you do raises the usable rpm. Before long you will be out of the power curve your truck needs. Most aftermarket camshafts don't start making power till 2500 to 3000 rpm and with a 4000 rpm redline on stock parts, that leaves little room.

It can and has been done, but it can be done a whole lot cheaper with a V-8. Depending on the weight of you truck, it could take up to 400 hp to run in the 11's. 400 is a long way away from stock! Joe

I am not looking for an "absolute race" vehicle.
I am trying to have a 'really unique' vehicle with a 'hoss' of an inline.
I am sick of all the V-8's at car shows as if that is the ONLY way to get power out of an engine.
Ideally, I would like something that would hold its own against a V-8, at least off the line, say from 'stoplight to stoplight' and just look at them and grin that my inline 6 beat their hopped up V-8, at least in a short distance.
I will read ALL the articles on this as well as info from this site.
I have catalogs coming from Langdons, Waynes, Clifford, etc.
Because it is SO expensive to build one with horsepower and torque, I just want to do the 'homework' to get it right the first time.

Timmer,

Depending on how much work you do yourself (and the HP of the smallblocks that you race against), your 292 does not have to be that expensive. You can build a strong 292 for a relatively reasonable price, depending on how patient you are. If you buy a camshaft with something in the neighborhood of 220 degrees duration at .050 (and .500 valve lift) and can find some LPG pistons then you're halfway to your goal of building a strong low end 292.

Add to this a well balanced bottom end (magnafluxed rods and crank), an outstanding port and polish of the head and a Clifford water heated intake with a small 4 barrel you'll have a very strong road runner that should hold it's own on the streets.

-ftyler

That sounds great.
I am in no hurry, so getting it done right is a priority.
I want an Inline that not only has the 'grunt' but is show quality as well. So, I will take it slowly to ensure I get both.
There seems to be great differences on the 'intake and carb and exhaust' options.
Some like this and some like that.
So, I will have to fully understand where everyone is coming from and take that into account to get the end result on my engine I want.

I'm real happy with the Carter 625 cfm AFB, Offy manifold and Hedman Hedders on my 292:

[img]http://www.chevyasylum.com/64c10/64c10_316r4.jpg[/img]

Even running the stock cam, that combo has helped it breathe a whole bunch. It's pretty kool when the secondaries open up and rap thru the Cherry Bombs.

That set up looks great. Any particular reason you went with the Headmans instead of the Fentons?
Personally, I like the look of the Headmans. Any particular year truck you had to order them for, or just any 292?

I didn't know that Fenton made headers for the 292. If they do, then I've learned something. I've used Hedman in the pas with good success on "twin-fours" and decided to stay with that brand. The split pat makes it a little hard to get everything lined up so's you can start the first bolt (especially if ya got a bad heart like me) but after that it's pretty straight forward.

As far as I know, the Hedders are the same for 62-66. (or thereabouts.) I think they only make one set for the 292. www.hedman.com otta get ya there.

I think that when Timmer says "fenton" he may be thinking of the cast iron headers from Langdon's. I'm going to split my manifold rather than usings headers for a couple of reasons. One: even though I'm going to have quite a bit tied up in it money wise I'm trying to stay with a low budget seventies "rat rod" kind of theme. Two: I'm staying with my muncie 3 speed and column shift because I rebuilt my linkage and made it click-click smooth and quick. now I'm addicted to it, all the long tube headers say "not for column shift" and I don't think the cast iron headers are worth $289 when I can split my manifold for about $3 bucks!

Boo Radley

Uh . . . Chevy, 'split pat'??? what does that mean? and 'split the manifold'??? On the stock one?
I am unfamiliar with the application of those terms.
Do you run 'dual' exhaust pipes all the way back with 2 mufflers or do you combine them somewhere along the way?
And more importantly perhaps, to get that 'unique' 6 cyl sound, Glass Paks, Flowmasters, etc. ??????
Timmer
Oh yea, I WAS talking about the Fenton 'style' headers from Langdon's. But, it is not beyond reason that I get confused between the two. I have a 235 I am going to upgrade to some of these (Fenton headers or Clifford, dual intake & carbs) BUT also I want to 'BUILD' a 292 to scream and sound like a bad mamba jamba!

Sorry Timmer...I shouldn't try to type or think so near to bedtime. I should have typed "split part" and by that I meant the fact that the front 3 cylinders make up one "header" and the rear 3 make up another. Trying to juggle the two headers and the intake manifold by yerself can be a bit of a pain...especially for an old man who had open heart surgery 5 months ago.

I DO run dual exhaust and they don't have an H pipe...or any other crossover.

I run Cherry Bomb glasspacks and they have the traditional six-banger rap to them. My pipes exit in front of the rear wheels, but running them all the way out the back shouldn't change the sound much. It's louder than a lot of people like....but I'm partial to loud exhaust. Must be some fundamental flaw in my character or something...but who cares, huh?

The sound is really nice...but it gets a whole lot better when the secondaries on the carb open up. Then it gets a LOT louder.

I hope this answers the question a little better. And I wish ya a lotta luck buildin a 292 screamer. I always thought that a 292 and a Muncie 4-speed would make a kool combo in a 62-65 Nova. Hey...I just happen to have a 63 Nova with a 4-speed...maybe I otta....oh, never mind.

6-cylinder engines are inherently balanced, which goes a long way toward getting good high-RPM performance out of them. A good weight-matching job on all the components and high-strength rod bolts will allow you to run considerably higher revs than the engine was originally designed to run. Other high-rev tricks might include lightweight pistons, and a corresponding reduction in crankshaft counterweight size. You might also investigate the possibility of offset-grinding the rod journals for extra stroke length, combined with a connecting rod and rod bearing for a smaller journal size. the hot-setup 350's are using a Honda rod bearing, and a custom-designed rod for this type of situation. With a little trick cylinder head work, you should have a real screamer. Remember this old adage: "Going fast costs money. How fa$t do you want to go?"
Jerry

everyone thats rebuilding a 292 raise your hand!!! im currently going over mine. its a 1963 292, so its got the rare steel cast crank with only 6 counter weights. im loving it so far. words cant express my love for these straight sixes, espeacially 292's.

hotrod lincoln, you bring up a topic that i have been debating for quite some time now. there are so many options when it comes to making these things faster. what have you guys who have done modifications found to be the best modifications for the price? being in school, im pretty limited money wise

Hey Timmers --- Here's a split manifold.
http://www.inliners.org/Advertisers/kkk_ad1.html

Boo

I spoke with Tom Langdon today. Gathered a little more info to squirrel away on this rebuild. Also spoke with 'mom' at Patrick's. Dang, she knows her engines.
I now, have a 'flow chart' on the wall to keep all this straight. Let's see. Longer stroke makes more HP but shorter makes more torque, or how does that work?
I am taking ALL this info and trying to assimilate it into ONE screaming package.
No doubt, I will incorporate a lot of info from this page.
Will pick up this 'famous' 292 tomorrow and begin the 'basic' breakdown this weekend to see exactly what I have and in what conditon.
Thanks guys for the info and keep it coming.
I'll keep you up to date on how 'our' engine is coming, including pics.
Timmer

Timmer,

If you plan on taking your engine apart this weeked. Make sure you mark your rod caps as to 1-6 and put them back together with the correct rod.

This will make it easier for the engine builder.

I built a big 292, bored it .060, Crane cam, stock intake and exhaust. It raps up to 4500 rpm easily with lots of go. With a 4 barrel and headers it would really go! There is a guy runninig a 292 at the drags here with a flow through hemi head.

When buying inline 6 (or most other) parts, eBay is your friend. Pick up the pieces of others' failed projects!

First of all guys, get a load of this pic:

http://img203.exs.cx/img203/5968/mvc285s4ng.jpg

talkin' about NO Respect! :rolleyes: My wife's dog.
My 'other' 46 1.5 ton came rollin' down the driveway last nite, kinda unexpectedly. Was suppose to go to the shop. Wife said either the truck or she needed to be gone by the weekend. Dang! I'm gonna miss my wife.
Anyway, 52pu - will it matter if I am installing Roller Rockers?
Redcoat- can you get some pics of the drag car?

Timmer, you're just a little confused on the stroke thing. Long strokes build more torque at a lower RPM, a matter of more leverage on the crankshaft. A short-stroke engine winds up to higher RPM, producing more horseopwer in the high-RPM ranges. The final drive gear ratio needs to match the stroke, higher gear ratios for long strokes, to utilize the extra torque, and lower gears, with higher RPM for the short strokes.

Horsepower=torque X RPM, divided by 5,250. There are a few fudge factors for temperature, humidity, and atmospheric pressure, plus a "volumetric efficiency" calculation, so raw figures don't always tell the whole story. I've got a computer program called "Desktop Dyno" that can predict HP and torque pretty accurately with the right info plugged into the formulas.
Jerry

Hotrod -
Forgive my 'ignorance' which as you say, we are fixin' now.
But, HP = TQ x RPM. If I am building a 292, where do I get these #'s to punch into the formula?
None of them, that I know of are a 'constant' or a 'given'.
AND - Stroke = drive gear? Is that the total distance of the stroke, say, 4.5 inches = 4.55 gears?
And when you say 'high' gears, you are talking about numerically lower like 3.73's??? :confused:

I had a long reply ready to post, hit the wrong key, and erased it!

Torque and RPM must be measured during an engine run, under load, at different speeds. Then, the figures are plugged into the formula to get Horsepower. The advantage to the desktop dyno program is that the engine doesn't have to be run, or even built, to estimate the performance. Just plug in the bore, stroke, compression ratio, camshaft specs, cylinder head design, etc., and the program computes the HP and torque output.

Low (numerically high) gear ratios, like a 4.56:1, for instance, give the engine a better mechanical advantage over the weight of the vehicle, and allow for quicker acceleration, and higher engine RPM for any specific road speed. Thyey're best for short-stroke engines that don't develop a lot of torque. Higher gears, like a 3.23:1, make for higher top speeds, but require an engine to have more torque to get the vehicle moving. Something in between allows for different performance options.
Jerry

Hotrod,
thanks for the info. Guess the only thing to do now is to take this engine apart and 'begin'.
I am sure a lot of these spec's will show up there.

Like Hotrod, I use a computor dyno as well. I have the Performance Trends brand Engine Analyzer and the Dragrace Analyzer. Once you build the ideal engine you send it to the dragrace program and install it in a car or truck of you choice. Make drag runs and see what happens. Making peak horse power is easy on the computor, doing it in real time is a lot harder. For the money, they are a great tool and fun program to play with.

Joe

Hotrod / Joe ,

So where can I get me one of them there programs?

Hey Timmers --- I never bought a program. I just drove Joe Hand crazy by emailing him all my numbers.

Now I'm ready to build. I made some of my decisions by looking at the graphs that show how different components move peak horsepower up and down the rpm scale. My motor should run like a rocket from about 3000 - 4500 with good cruising between 2000 and 4000. Very streetable, but certain humiliation for kids in rice burners
Boo

Boo -
OK, so I'll return the favor and just email you with all my specs!
Dang! Can't wait till the weekend and get started.
Timmer

Here's a link to several dyno simulation programs, ans a lot of service manuals, also. Looks like the dyno packages are on sale right now!

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/si...;OVKEY=desktop%20dyno&OVMTC=standard

Good shopping!
Jerry

Here is the Performance Trends site.
Performance Trends

Hotrod/Joe - Thanks for the info.
I will be using that to build this thing.

Guess once this is built, I will need to go buy a car/truck to put it in.
I will be looking for something 'light weight'.
Any suggestions? I am guessing perhaps a 1940 Chevy P/U, with fiberglass running boards, fenders, perhaps even shorten the frame just a smidgeon, OR
a 38 or 39 2 door Chevy Master Deluxe with some of the same weight saving items?

I want it to cruise and be comfortable too.
I need the vehicle to be just as UNIQUE as the 292 when it is all said and done.
BUT most importantly, should I select the vehicle first BEFORE I build the motor and MATCH the motor to the vehicle. I am figuring if it is a stump grinding Torque Meister of a 292, it won't really matter what I put it in.