The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 20" split rim replacment

This is the truck I seen and found out that the tandem rear truck had wider fenders than the single rear end trucks.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2593320520080251109cSQtop
Here is a picture of mine so you can see what I am talking about I also like the addition of the running boards.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2460681980096773078kMksWX
Hey Grigg if you could find me a set of the extra wide TF fenders and running boards I would be a really happy camper.

Hey HevyHauler, It's not just the Tandem '56-'57 Chevy trucks that have the flared out fenders. Those Trucks with the flared out fenders, are the 8000, & 10000 series Heavy Duty Line '56-'57 model trucks. Check out Mike B's website, & you'll see he has a Heavy Duty 8000 series Wrecker, & Heavy Duty 10000 series Fire Truck, that are single rear axle trucks, with the flared out front fenders, extra opening below the grille, & external running boards. Medium Duty 6000 series trucks, that were Tandem, or single axle, did not have the flared out fenders, extra grille opening, or external running boards.

Thanx Spanky I may have taken us off subject a little but think it may be of some help on the axle issue for those who chose to go that way.
Anyway if there is some one who may have a good set of 8,000 or 10,000 series fenders and running boards especially if they may want to trade a set of 6,000 fenders for them please let me know or I will have too get creative with the tig and some sheet metal.

Grigg, I don't think that the 19.5's look that bad? definitely not the best but if you could find a set of 6 cheap at a yard, it may get you on the road for now. Are the widow makers so dangerous that you cannot add even a little air to them?? mine are not low and hold air ok, no leaks. Should I drive the truck with them? I think I can get around the inspection thing, And I just saw one here same truck as mine with the same wheeles on the road. If most of us didn't know what we had, most of the people out there won't know either. I definitely would not mount any new tires on them, but if the tires are good can I run what I have for now or is it a bomb waiting to go off???

rust master
The danger is in mounting and dismounting tires on these wheels I have never heard of one coming apart on the road. But if you have a flat that is the end unless you fix it your self for shops are not aloud to touch them.

The danger in refilling the two piece rims (that are split in the middle) after one has been low is that the rim could have separated some and with the extra air pressure it flys apart and kills you.

It's better safe than sorry, and why I recommended against refiling a low one. If done carefully it could be done, but could also be exciting...

Grigg

Thanks for the feedback,, no offense taken. I know you've dealt with lots of these beasts, so I figured I'd gather your opinion.

Speaking of the widowmakers, I have a story. My dad has a 55 2nd series 2-ton grain truck that he still uses on his small farm. One day he was down at the farm, about a half mile off the hill from their house, and was working on removing the dual wheels from one side of the truck. The inner rim was a 3 piece with the lock ring,, not one of the 'widowmakers'.

Anyway,, I'm not sure exactly what he did to cause this, but all the sudden I heard this sound like a bomb went off,, and I was in the basement of the house! I went down the hill to the farm to figure out what happened, and luckily he was ok,,, other than perhaps his soiled britches. For one reason or another, that inner 3 piece rim came apart,, and I'm not exaggerating when I say this, but that lock ring was literally wrapped around the rear leafs! Iza Miza!

OK Bolters, Here we go. I don't quite get it, so here's a link to the photos of the wheels on the old family bolt(1930). They look to me to just be normal split rims and not the Widow Makers. 6.00 x 20s. Of course the split ring on the duals are facing inside so these pics shows both sides pretty good. What do you think???? TerryJ

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1954616

They are the usable kind, assuming not badly rusted.
They are called a "lock ring" type wheel.
It's easy to see in the one picture you snow of the lock ring.

A "split rim" you can't see any lock ring, as there are none.

Grigg

Thanks Grigg. It is terrific how useful this web site is. TerryJ

Thanks for the pictures, Grigg. I think I've made my decision. ;}

About 2 weeks ago I took the wheels off my 1931 Tow Truck to a large truck tire shop and asked them to demount the tires off the rims so I could have the wheels powder coated and put new tires on them. These are the lock ring type wheels which I don't consider extremley dangerous if handled properly. They wouldn't touch them because they were to old. So I spent 2 days removing them myself. I had to break the beads off the rims by driving my truck on to the tire numerous times. Any way I got them powder coated and new tires on them. Some of these shops just don't want to be bothered with old wheels and tires.
Good Luck
Cleon

HevyHauler,

If you want to swap Medium Duty Fenders for Heavy Duty Fenders you need to use all of the outer sheet metal on the front clip. The Heavy Duty truck Fenders, Upper Grille and Lower Grille are all different than what the Mediun Duty trucks have. Inner fenders and core support are the same. It would be lots easier to just swap complete front clips. The only negitive I can think of is the HD fenders might hang lower on the Med Duty trucks due to the shorter frame rail height. The front frame horns might also need to be modified...the HD frame horns have a deeper offset.

Mike B

I know this truck isn't a stovebolt (you guys are the best ones to ask), but Dad and I are trying to find some 1 piece wheels for it. I think these are the lock-ring type wheels on the front and 1 piece wheels on the back. I'm not sure of the size of the wheels, it slipped my mind to bring a tape measure when I looked at it last. He said if I can find some different wheels for it, I can bring it home.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2783171470100720268gzLjlE
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2290965340100720268ddpsgJ
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2317285140100720268MacYjV
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2461218480100720268PXtYri

That's a cute truck, I like it.

The wheels are easy, they are "Dayton" style and probably 20", and new or used 22.5" Dayton wheels are a direct replacement.

Check the width of the new wheels, as you need them to be the same or will need a new spacer ring between the duals to account for it.

Easy and cheap to find in junk yards.

This catalog shows what is available new, and what you should look for used:
http://www.accuridewheels.com/completeversion.pdf


Personally if the wheels are the three piece lock ring type, and I did not want much money in the truck I would leave the wheels alone, it is perfectly acceptable on a truck that size to use 20" lock ring wheels.

Grigg

Thanks Grigg, I'll pass that on to my Dad. My girlfriend said that it looks like it hit a wall and had the front end shoved back a couple of feet.

That used to be Lester Browns, old White. It's been years since I've seen that one. He used to bring it to the Piedmont/Carolina ATHS Truck Show, in Spencer, quite often. He also had a White around this same model, that was a Dump Truck.

Spanky, I'm talking to his son, Steven, about purchasing it. The "Lester Brown & Son Landscaping Co." is still on the passenger door, and I'd paint it back on there. If my guesstimation is correct, its the all of 5 miles from my house, so getting it home wouldn't be a problem. Convincing Mom and Dad to let me bring it home is a different story.

Are you going to be at that show Spanky? I'm planning on coming to it, but it depends on how my exam schedule ends up being. IIRC, its the first Saturday in May (2nd?).

Ok, I'm trying to measure my wheels. I know that they are hub piloted, 6.25 inch hole in the middle. now I trying to measure the lug pattern. It's a 10 bolt wheel, and I'm comming up with 9 inch lug pattern does this sound right?? should I be measuring from the middle of one wheel stud to the middle of the oposing one straight across ??

10-4, I usually make it to that Show. My son likes the Trains, there at the Railroad Museum. Lester had a bunch of Vintage trucks. How many are left. I miss that 'ol dude. He was a good man. He'd go out of his way to make sure he spoke, & conversated with you, no mattter where he saw you.

I think you have the 6.25" center hole, as measured, and 8.75" bolt circle measured center of one stud to center of opposite one.

New or used 22.5" wheels are available with this "medium" sized 10 lug pattern, only found on GM trucks that I know of.
Click here: http://www.accuridewheels.com/completeversion.pdf and then go to page 12. Looks like you will need Accuride part number 28160.

Grigg

The easy way to get a center to center measurement is to measure from the outside edge of one stud to the inside edge of the opposing stud that way you don't have to guess where the middle is.

Yes it looks like 8.75 like you guys said. any I dea how common these are to find used? and how much is fair to spend on used? I didn't see any prices in the accuride catalog, but it looks like the 28160 is the one I need.

Used price for steel tubeless big truck wheels, is usually around $50 each, depending what it is and where you are, that sounds fair to me, I would not pay much more unless they came with inspectable tires, then around about $100 each.
For new prices you will need to go to your local big truck tire shop and ask them to check the price on that part number.
Those wheels may not be extremely easy to find used, but I would say not difficult. I have seen a number of trucks with that size bolt pattern 22.5 wheels.

Grigg

Grigg have you seen the 22.5's on anything other than chevys? having a hard time finding them around here.

Try GMC, if you have not already?
I half think I have seen those 10 on 8.75" wheels on a ford, but I did not want to say anything because I was not sure, and have not found the answer yet.

Grigg

I have been looking for these wheels also. A friend of mine has a 66 C60 dump bed that has the 10 hole 8.25 paturn wheels that are the widowmakers. He already baught 2 new 22.5 wheels from accuride because the front two were flat. Now we can atleast roll the truck oround easier but we want to replace the rear before we get the truck running and start driving on the road. The only vehicle I have even seen with the 22.5 inch wheels with this bolt patern is a mid 80s chevy school buss. Has anybody ever tried to build a set of these wheels by using the center out of the old wheels and welding them in some bud wheels?

There is a shop in eastern Washington that I was sent to for this but it was more expensive that new ones from Accuride so I bit the bullet and bought six new ones. I couldn’t fine any used ones either but I didn’t have the time this is a working truck. If anyone is interested I do have 6 good 10 hole X8.75 3 piece 20” wheels 2 with 70% 8.25X20” ribbed front end tires and 4 with 60% 8.25X20” traction rears mounted on them.

Wish you werent on the other side of the country otherwise I would be happy to take them off your hands. I think the problem here is that anything old enough to have the wheels we want just get's crushed for scrap value, due to the low demand around me. There is a very short # of people with older trucks here especially big bolts. If I don't find any thing around here I will head up to Maine in the spring ( I have a camp there) The Mainers hold onto things alot longer. How much did you guys pay for the new accuride wheels???

I don't remember what the wheels cost they weren’t cheap. I bought all six wheels two new front 10.00X22.5" and four rear traction tread recaps on matching virgin casings for right around $3000. I could have bought six big truck 10 lug bud polished aluminum for about the same
All has to do with suply and demand and there is not much demand so the price is high.
Hit you local tire shops with the part number from the accuride web page and ask though maybe I took a soaking.

I believe my friend told me he had to pay about $200 each for the new accuride wheels, but he said he is getting the 22.5 tires a lot cheaper than the 20 inch tires.

Yes 22.5s are not only far superior to the old 20"tube type they are much cheaper too. That has to do with that supply and demand thing again nobody is buying then so there are no big stocks being kept anymore.
I changed mostly because my trucks are working trucks and the cost of flat repairs is much more on tube type not to mention you will have twice as many flats with the tube type.
Although expensive the change was very cost effective for me.

Some general information on wheels.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0801ct_custom_truck_wheels/index.html

I know this is an old topic... but I came here and others likely do as well.

I have a 1963 C60 with 20" 10 bolt wheels. Here is what is current information as of 2012.

Accuride no longer makes a replacement wheel for this application. They will not do a limited run with holes to spec.

You are left with three options.

1. Replace your 20" tires with Chinese tires and have them mounted by an ever diminishing list of tire shops who will handle the Firestone RH-5 wheels.

2. Have custom rims drilled to your specs for hub pilot hole and bolt hole pattern. There is a business in Washington State that can do this

3. Have a custom shop cut your wheel centers out of the 20" wheels and weld them into 22.5 wheels. You still need to find narrow 22.5's, but that is easier than many other wheels.

Any other ideas? I am all out of them. I have chosen option 3 and found someone with experience doing this. It is done by professionals in the collector car and offroad world. Good luck to others - a friend is selling his 1955 1.5 ton because of the wheels!

Old thread yes...
In the mean time we have come up with a Wheel and tire Tech Tip that has lots of great wheel info.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/

Other options for the medium size 10 lug GM wheels with 8.75" bolt circle.
Find used Accuride 22.5" wheels with the correct bolt pattern.
Or used original (older) 22.5" wheels like this
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2265814630080251109jvRWTd

Grigg

Hi Grigg;
I wanted to make a couple of additions to your excellent article on wheels. A rule of thumb is if the wheel size includes a ".5",it's designed to be tubeless. Also,on the one ton duallies from the late 50's/early 60's,switching the 17.5's to 16's isn't hard on the front. (I changed on my '62 because I could get new 16" wheels and tires for less than JUST the 17.5 tires.) I used short shank mag style lug nuts and washers,had to drill the lug holes about 1/32" bigger for the sleeves to fit when I put 'em on my '62,but the 16's wouldn't fit over the big brake drums on the corporate rear end,so I was stuck with the 17.5's,17's,18's which are about the same price,or possibly going to 19.5's,which are more common than 17.5's but still about the same price,so no savings there. This is probably all academic by now-everyone's changing to 19.5's now. As you indicated in the article,it's a good idea to test fit new wheels before mounting tires on 'em.
Speed

I have a friend that had some adapters made so he could put 'super singles' on the rear of his big bolt. He DOES NOT put a load on it.

Im interested in your wheels can you send pic to y phone 8327405026