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| | | Forums66 Topics128,140 Posts1,056,464 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | First off, let me say howdy to all! I'm a newbie on this forum and want to say thanks to everyone responsible for creating it!
Here's a little bio just to let you know where I'm coming from; I'm 46, happily married father of 2 teenagers and am a licensed mechanical engineer. After 20 years of being away from the hobby (my last build was a 67 Barracuda street rod), I've finally come back to it and am in the midst of building a 55 Chevy shortbox stepside 3100. I'm building it for/with my 15-year old son as a way to teach him how to spin a wrench, show him what makes cars tick, give him something cool to drive during his high school years, and to spend more quality time with him. My daughter pitches in too, she's a real trooper. Anyway, we're building it as a resto-rod and we've completed the chassis this past year. it is sporting the stock frame, upgraded with a TCI Mustang II front suspension, 2" dropped spindles, power steering, big disk brakes, under-cab master cylinger/power booster with remote fill reservoirs. The rear suspension is a new TCI dropped leaf kit holding an S10 Xtreme rear axle with big disk brakes. The wheels are Vintique OEM steel rims with chrome moonies; 15x7 up front and 15x10's out back. I'll be tubbing the bed for sure! The motor is a new crate SBC (350 ci) with mild upgrades to keep it streetable, the trans is the original 3-speed manual converted to a floor-shift. The e-brake is also on the floor now. We've test-driven the truck to sort out the new suspension and so far I'm thrilled with the results. It sits very low to the ground and handles like a go-cart, and the 2.73 gears in the rear allow the truck to cruise nicely at highway speeds. So now it's onto the bodywork, and my question;
We've taken the sheetmetal off the frame and am prepping the cab for removal. The windshield and gasketing is new, put on by the PO, so I want to re-use it. How do I remove the windshield without breaking it? My local glass shop guy says it's unlikely that I'll be able to accomplish this. He wasn't confident that he could do it. But I say; if there is a will, there's a way. Can anyone give me some tips?
Thanks in advance, and sorry for the longish post.
Anthony In New York | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 171 | Hi Anthony. Welcome to the bolt. Have a look at this page from the 1955 (second series) service manual. It gives instructions on removing the windshield and preserving the gasket. I've never tried the procedure, though. I cut mine out and used a new gasket--but then again, I was replacing the glass too. Also, you can get a plastic window tool from most of the vendors that you can use to work around the glass and rubber. Good luck! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | windshields are expensive enuff to save, seals are cheap enuff to sacrifice, the glass guy is right, you'll likely crack the windshield trying to save the seal, so cut the seal around the outside to remove the flange of it that covers the glass, then the glass can be carefully pushed out from inside
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | windshields are expensive enuff to save, seals are cheap enuff to sacrifice, the glass guy is right, you'll likely crack the windshield trying to save the seal, so cut the seal around the outside to remove the flange of it that covers the glass, then the glass can be carefully pushed out from inside
Bill Thanks Bill. I'm not at all concerned about saving the seal, just the glass. So I'll give it a go! Thanks much. Anthony | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | Hi Anthony. Welcome to the bolt. Have a look at this page from the 1955 (second series) service manual. It gives instructions on removing the windshield and preserving the gasket. I've never tried the procedure, though. I cut mine out and used a new gasket--but then again, I was replacing the glass too. Also, you can get a plastic window tool from most of the vendors that you can use to work around the glass and rubber. Good luck! Thanks Greg! That window gasket section really shows what I need to do - basically run a sharp blade through the gasket along the outer perimeter to cut the lip away, then I can (hopefully) gently push out the windshield as you suggest. I'll give it a go! Thanks again, Anthony  | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | I think you are on the right track. I too would play it safe and cut the rubber seal if I were trying to save the glass. Let us know how it all works out 55stepside. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | 55, Ditto above... seal is cheap compared to glass.....Another New Yorker.....Welcome Dan | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | 55, Ditto above... seal is cheap compared to glass.....Another New Yorker.....Welcome Dan Thanks! And thanks again everyone. Anthony Westchester County, NY | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 289 | | | |
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