The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Firewall insulator pad

I have a '49 3100 and I'm to the point of purchasing a firewall pad.The three vendors that I've been using each sell a different type.One is rubber backed,one is plastic backed and one is fiberglass backed.I would appreciate any advice or opinions on these before I buy.Also I assume this needs to be installed before I run a new wiring harness and install the heater?Thanks for any help,Chip Watford Calhoun,Ga.

Chip, much has been posted here on this subject so I wont' even try to mention them all. Do a search and you should find enough to keeep you busy until Christmas.
I will mention much has been said about going to Home Depot, or Lowes, and buying the "Peel and Stick". A couple places have this and just call it another name. I also believe someone mentioned going to a "heating and air" place to find some. Do a search and hang tight as I'm sure some other fellows that have ACTUALLy used this stuff will chime in. I plan to use it but I'm to that point yet.

i have a fiberglas model. it came w/ a jute backing. i doubled (3M spray glued a second layer), the jute covering on the back side rather than use any of those 'peel-n-seal' type products. with the glas type you can repair 'if needed' the holes and any other damage. before i use the seal products i would simply use the double sided foil backed two sides insulation material - http://www.insulation4less.com/prodex_Ffmf.asp.
i would not put the 'seal' type on a floor (interior doors and body walls - maybe, i like dynamat) http://www.dynamat.com/ because if water should get inside and under the peal type material, you may not know, can't access to dry it up, thus it could seal in rusty areas. w/ the double sided insulation you can lift and clean the floor.

my.02

Thanks for the replies.While I was considering using the "peel and stick"in other areas of the cab mostly for sound deadening,I don't want to use it on the interior firewall.I was refering to the jute backed insulator which is held in place by clips.I'm going back mostly original with the truck but don't mind using a better product if it looks good and is more durable. Thanks

Just a suggestion.....I spent quite a bit of time visually cleaning up my firewall....made some aluminum panels to cover the numerous holes and assumed that when I pop riveted them in it would be relatively air tight. Once again, assumption was the mother of error.....I have heated air bleeding into the cab.

I should have used a strip sealer sold at NAPA that is used by body shops to throughly seal around the holes or at least used aluminum backed tape under my interior firewall insulated blanket. The point I'm trying to make is that to make your firewall keep out the heat and smells, you need to be very thorough in using a good sealer or you'll just be wasting your time and energy.

Dave

Pop riveting aluminum to steel isn't the ideal situation. Those dissimilar metals will together will cause the rivets to turn to dust relatively soon. A better method would be to use steel patches with a good thick adhesive and/or sheetmetal screws.

EDIT: Actually welding plugs in the holes is best but if you don't want to go that route Steele Rubber Products sells rubber plugs for holes of varying diameters.

I'm a believer in looking for a bargain when shopping for anything. However I won't be shopping for the cheapest in temp and sound deadening. Dynamat is the way I'll be going. http://www.dynamat.com/

Have you looked at LMC?

I do not believe anyone makes the original type cardboard pads. I bought the fiberglass one from Jim Carter and I am happy with it. Yes you need to install it first before wiring and heater. Good luck,
Steve O

what's wrong w/ the newer longer lasting backings????
yes they will outlive you anyway as cardboard isn't much worth using. yes it may have been ''state-o-art'' way back when but not really good now. I sometimes like to keep my old iron stock but there is a point.
your choice though .... my .02

I'm a firm believer in that ALL my machines will be around long after I'm gone.


fla54 use a body shop ''seam sealer'' or elactomertic caulking after, on any holes/ cracks to seal out/up those holes

Had a friend that would weld washers to fill the holes on the firewall. I may be trying that also.