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What's the scoop on Permatex?

I want to be extra super careful to prevent fluid leaks when I put my 235 back together so I was planning to take the time required to check sheetmetal parts for warped flanges and dented screw holes and use Permatex everywhere.

My question is, which ones do I use and where?

I just visited their website and the choices are overwhelming. I'm not building a race car, I just want a little extra insurance that my gaskets won't leak.

Any other "insider" info on preventing leaks from a 235 are welcome.

I'm a body man not a mechanic so excuse me if my questions are simple-minded.

When I use Permatex I use no 2 I don't use it a lot. I use it on the oil pan gaskets where the gaskets meet at the corners and water pumps especially when the casting are rough.
Cleon

I too use Permatex #2 on most gaskets.

I'll lay the gasket on a piece of cardboard or masking paper, apply a thin line around the whole gasket, and then smear and pat it on the gasket evenly, somewhat like stucco. Flip over and repeat, don't really have to worry about messing up the first side when you turn it over, it'll be fine. The goal is to apply just enough so a very small amount squishes out around the edges once the part is installed, clean that up right then with some alcohol so the paint looks better when you get that far.

For a valve cover gasket I generally only stick it to the valve cover, so you can reuse the gasket after valve adjustments, a contact adhesive works great for that, Caterpillar sells some good stuff, gasket adhesive they call it, "cat glue" as most people call it, like rubber cement.

Grigg

P.S.
I'll add that I use to use black rtv silicone, and I thought it was good, untill I started to use the #2, no more silicone for me, at least not for gaskets.
I would use a very little, same method as I now use the #2, but it did not seem to seal as good, and sometimes it's really hard o remove the part again, I really had to fight with my oil pan after the silicone tretement.

I have had good luck with Permatex RTV part # 1416.A small amount goes a long way.You can use it between gasket surfaces and in the corners.After you bolt it together, you can dress it up with your finger for a nice clean seam.

Ive always used the high temp red rtv, works on anything not being directly exposed to gas. I was taught not to use sealant on both sides of a gasket because even if you use it sparingly you can displace the gasket when bolting the parts together.

Also torque your bolts down hand tight and let it sit for 10-15 minutes before final adjustment, it gives it a little time for the sealant to cure.

I havent done many, but Ive never used sealant on head gaskets (except for just a touch on V6/V8s where they meet the intake corners). Not really sure if anyone does, someone will chime in on that.

Jeff

I favor the RTV. If you want a gasket to stay in place like on a valve cover glue one side on with 3-m black weatherstrip adhesive. There are many sealers out there for different puposes. You should be able to find some lit. on what to use when,where. There is nothing like a well sealed engine.

I always make sure I have good quality gaskets, also make sure that they haven't been sitting on a shelf for years or hanging on a nail on the wall so they get all distorted and dried out. As far as a sealant goes I use a small amount of either #2 or black RTV in corners where parts meet, but as far as the gasket surface goes I've found that if you have a good quality gasket it will seal and fill most slight distortions. I also use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue gaskets in place, esp valve cover gaskets that come on and off for adjustments. On cylinder head gaskets I have used aluminum paint, or high tack gasket spray if its a metal type gasket, if its a composition type gasket usually no added sealer works the best.

I bought my gasket set from NAPA and had a choice of two kinds of head gaskets, fiber and copper so I went for the copper, hoping it would be the best choice.

There's a gasket spray for head gaskets?

Man, so much to know.

I think there is a spray that some people use on copper. Personally I have never used copper.

use a small amount of an RTV in corners and on thin gaskets...doc

Amazing how we could use with success Permatex 50 years ago before they had #1 #2 etc..

Yep, I remember when Permatex was Permatex.

There's really no one product that will do the job right and that's why the others were developed I guess. I just use motor oil on most paper gaskets. Some places the P#2 is better than RTV, like holding the intake gaskets on a V8, but the RTV is best in other places, like where the cam cover and oil pan meet.

So what I'm saying is it has a lot to do with personal preference. You could do it all with one product like we did when there was only one Permatex. But think about the different seals you have to make and you'll soon come up with your own personal preferences. Think about, "Will this need to come off in a couple of years or is this going to stay together for the life of the engine?" For instance, the thermostat housing will be pulled long before the engine is used up. That's why I use motor oil on that gasket. It seals great and you can usually re-use the gasket instead of having to scrape and clean the area.



Get some of all 3 and you can't go wrong.

I like the liquid brush-on Permatex sealer called "super 300". It's not the same as the #3 brush-on liquid. It's almost black in color, and it was developed for use around 115/145 Avgas. I use it on both sides of steel shim head gaskets. Use no sealer at all on no-retorque head gaskets, or on any gasket that's exposed to intake manifold vacuum. I like yellow 3M weatherstrip adhesive for gluing valve cover gaskets to the covers, or anywhere else where it's important for the gasket to stay in place during installation. We called the yellow stuff "gorilla snot" around most of the race tracks where I've been.

RTV is OK, as long as it's not over-used. A thin layer goes a long way. Don't use it anywhere it might get exposed to liquid gasoline, as it swells up to many times its original volume, and gets pretty gummy in the process.
Jerry

OK I'm sold!

I have always made sure gasket surfaces are clean and dry, gaskets fresh and plyable, and sheet metal parts straight and flat. Put dozens of engines together dry and have had excellent results, seldom have any leaks. Care when assembling makes a better job than smearing permatex around. I use this technique on 6's and V-8's too.

There is a spray called Coppercoat you can use on metal gaskets. Most head gaskets anymore should not have any sealant.

Permatex has a copper spray for all head gaskets.I prefer a perma-torque head gasket when available.Check out Felpro.