The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts have you ever shortended 1.5 ton frame

I am looking for a 1.5 ton 1941-1954 but want the shorter wheel base of a 1 ton. Can you or have you, do you recommend shortening the frame ?

I would not shorten one until I looked long and hard and could not find one the right lengthe to start with.

Sounds like you are loking for a model 4100 with a 137" wheelbase, the next longer one is a model 4400 at 161"

There are also 2 tons, model 6100 with a 137" wheelbase, but as you know, a heavyer frame.

The 1 ton model 3800 and the 1.5 ton 4100 do use an alomst identicle frame, but they are different, front bumper mounting and front frame length are the most notable differences, (and perhaps only).

Grigg

if you were to move your spring hangers forward to the desired spot and reattach the spring hangers and reposition your rear end, the only thing i would think you would have to to is shorten your driveline

First, why do you want to?

In reply to moving the spring hangers. I think that is a less desireable method in this case. The rear section of the frame has some shape at the rear spring hangers, tapers down for them, and in front of the hangers the frame is taller. This would affect the stance of the truck.
Another better reason not to shorten by moving the hangers is the frame has crossmembers at the spring hangers, these crossmembers help to distribute the load that is suported by the hangers.

The "proper" way to shorten the frame in this case would be to cut a section out behind the cab where the frame is straight.

I believe that for the AD chevy trucks if you want a 4100 frame you can't get one by shortening a 4400. The 4400 frame is made of thicker metal, and perhaps a taller section.

Again,
What are you trying to do, or accomplish?

Grigg

Can't just move the springs, just before the spring on a big bolt the frame is nearly a foot thick, then tapers down to go up and over the diff. The only way to get a shorter frame other than to buy the correct one is to cut a section out of the "thick" part.
Scott

Justmeok..I've done many frame jobs (2-10 a month) years ago and there is a lot more to it than cutting the frame and welding it back together. It must be properly reinforced, cut at the right place, welded in the correct manner, and the driveline angle must be correct, not to mention the brake line, wiring, etc.

If you decide to do it contact me and I'll help you along. But don't do it if you feel your not up to it. Your talking about the backbone of your truck.

If you want a short 69 C-40 email me I have one
it has a 10 ft utility bed on it

10ft bed ? thats a short truck ? LOL. . .
the K-3000 is the same truck as a C-40 i got 7ft bed thats a short medium duty truck. . .

anywho:
shortening a singel exle is drop the drive shaft move the axle to were you want it then chop the rear over hang off. . . tho most would just split the truck and take the unwanted length out of the middle. . .I'm always in search of a short heavy truck. . .
thats why army truck's work so good with me they offer the BIGGEST ! in the SHORTEST ! wheel base's. . .them prime mover same size rig as my M123 but the M123 averages 3 foot shorter. .
I love the sawed off shot gun effect. . .

Mike !

i was at ATlas Frame and Axle last week. they had a C6500 truck(cab and chassis) with 22' frame rails behind the cab. I watched them re-drill the frame and re-mount the axle and spring assembley. then they cut the frame off behind the axle to their desired length. they went from 22' to 16'. this is the only reason i said what i said. I guess these old trucks are a bit different.

The issue with moving a rear end forward is the change in the frame dimemsions. If it is a straight frame and on the same plane then that is the proper way to do it. But with dipsy doodle up/down frames the rear hangers are not on the same level so cutting is necessary. Most of these old trucks had a smaller frame behind the rear axle than ahead of it which mandates the method I've descibed.

Well anywho. . . they have C/K-40+ chevy's and C/K-3000+ GMC's that are 60" cab to axle. . .not so easy to find. . .

I had to buy a well used K-3000 GMC not very many miles but plenty o Rust. . .

I used to have 1978 GMC general semi tractor Tandum that was slighgtly shorter than my F-150 it was but 4-6inches shorter Cab about sat on the first set of tires about 9inches cab to tread's I only used it for pulling goose neck's and norrow topped low boy's never tried to see if a regular width trailor would clear but it would put a 40 foot lowboy were most rig's could go trailor less. . . had a 400 big cam-4 cummins 9spd I hated to sell it. . .i needed a 6x6 tho. . .

My GMC K-3000 is 14 inches shorter than the F-150 but center of axle to center of axle is about 9 inches farther apart. . . manuver's like corvette threw the wood's. . .


Mike. . .

Yep my C-40 is 5'-- or 60" cab to axle
the 10' utility box is centered on it.
moves around real good with the power steering.
That would be near the same as your k-3000 in wb

yea i think the Chevy C-40 and the GMC 3000 are close to the same truck. . .bigger than a 1 ton not quite a ton and a half. . . If i was put a size on it I would call it a 1-1/4 Ton !
truck has a GVWR: 12,500LB. . .

Mike