The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (mason86, Gray_Ghost), 110 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,070
Posts1,055,892
Members48,428
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#339878 11/21/2007 5:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
I have converted my 1st series truck to 12 volt and I found that everything about the converting process is a little more work than I figured. The problem I have now is that the tail lights work but the brake lights only come on when I have the light switch in the off position.When I turn on the lights the brake lights don't work. Could the problem be in the turn signal switch?

Last edited by flyn55; 11/21/2007 6:01 PM.
flyn55 #339911 11/21/2007 7:07 PM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
Your headlight switch should supply power to the tail lights. Im guessing it may be connected to the wrong terminal on your headlight switch or a faulty switch. I had issues when I converted my coe because both the headlight switch and dimmer switch gave crappy connections, or no connection, and both had to be replaced before the kinks went away, so a faulty switch may be to blame as well.



My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
flyn55 #339914 11/21/2007 7:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
I don't think the turn signal switch is the problem. If you don't already have a 12 volt test light, invest a few $$ in one and you can isolate this pretty quickly.

One side of the stop light switch (on my '53 this is mounted on the firewall, just above the brake pedal rod)is always hot. Using your test light (or meter if you have one)find the hot side of the switch when the light switch is off. Turn the light switch on and see if that terminal is still hot. If not, the problem is in the lightswitch, if so, the problem is probably a poor ground back at the taillights.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
I checked the brake switch and I am getting power to the tail lights but no stop light or turn signal. I will re-check the switch and the ground.

Also what is the best way to connect the voltage reducers. I have the heavy duty and the lighter reducer, the one with the two wires on each end. Is it better to solder the wires to the reducer and then put shrink tube over the connections or is there a better way?

Thanks Flyn55

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
Thanks I will keep trying to figure this out.

Flyn55

flyn55 #339940 11/21/2007 8:19 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,464
Most folks would just use the automotive type "barrel" connectors to splice with but I like the idea of solder and heat shrink if you've got the room to work in.

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
Just curious but what are you using the reducers for?


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
I am using the reducers for the blower motor and the windshield wiper motor, as they are 6 volt motors and the fuel gauge to get an accurate reading. This was advise given in several publications.

flyn55 #340107 11/22/2007 5:21 AM
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
R Offline
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
I wanted to make sure they werent involved with the lights. Ive had issues with stuff sporadically not working properly with some of the ceramic reducers.


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 40
Thanks...I have been working on the problem of the brake lights and I have found that when I step on the brake, without turning on the headlights or the parking lights, the brake lights come on but they are not very bright. I then turn on all the lights and without putting on the brakes the lights are very bright. So I step on the brakes and get no change. I have turn signals that are stock and they work fine both in front and on the rear with the headlights off. When I turn on the lights and use the turn signals they work only on the front.
Any ideas?????


Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0