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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 | I have converted my 1st series truck to 12 volt and I found that everything about the converting process is a little more work than I figured. The problem I have now is that the tail lights work but the brake lights only come on when I have the light switch in the off position.When I turn on the lights the brake lights don't work. Could the problem be in the turn signal switch?
Last edited by flyn55; 11/21/2007 6:01 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | Your headlight switch should supply power to the tail lights. Im guessing it may be connected to the wrong terminal on your headlight switch or a faulty switch. I had issues when I converted my coe because both the headlight switch and dimmer switch gave crappy connections, or no connection, and both had to be replaced before the kinks went away, so a faulty switch may be to blame as well.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | I don't think the turn signal switch is the problem. If you don't already have a 12 volt test light, invest a few $$ in one and you can isolate this pretty quickly.
One side of the stop light switch (on my '53 this is mounted on the firewall, just above the brake pedal rod)is always hot. Using your test light (or meter if you have one)find the hot side of the switch when the light switch is off. Turn the light switch on and see if that terminal is still hot. If not, the problem is in the lightswitch, if so, the problem is probably a poor ground back at the taillights. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 | I checked the brake switch and I am getting power to the tail lights but no stop light or turn signal. I will re-check the switch and the ground.
Also what is the best way to connect the voltage reducers. I have the heavy duty and the lighter reducer, the one with the two wires on each end. Is it better to solder the wires to the reducer and then put shrink tube over the connections or is there a better way?
Thanks Flyn55 | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 | Thanks I will keep trying to figure this out.
Flyn55 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | Most folks would just use the automotive type "barrel" connectors to splice with but I like the idea of solder and heat shrink if you've got the room to work in. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | Just curious but what are you using the reducers for? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 | I am using the reducers for the blower motor and the windshield wiper motor, as they are 6 volt motors and the fuel gauge to get an accurate reading. This was advise given in several publications. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | I wanted to make sure they werent involved with the lights. Ive had issues with stuff sporadically not working properly with some of the ceramic reducers. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 40 | Thanks...I have been working on the problem of the brake lights and I have found that when I step on the brake, without turning on the headlights or the parking lights, the brake lights come on but they are not very bright. I then turn on all the lights and without putting on the brakes the lights are very bright. So I step on the brakes and get no change. I have turn signals that are stock and they work fine both in front and on the rear with the headlights off. When I turn on the lights and use the turn signals they work only on the front. Any ideas????? | | |
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