The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stuck in 3rd unless...

When I drive my 53 Chevy 3100, it goes through all the gears but gets stuck in 3rd if I don't upshift to 2nd while I'm still slowly moving.

If I stop in 3rd gear, it will not come out of gear. I have to slowly lug along to get up a couple mph in order to push it up into 2nd. I can feel the gears "bump-bump-bump" as I'm trying to upshift. I never do it over maybe 2 or 3 mph.

Is this normal? What can I do to make it so I can shift out of 3rd if the vehicle is stopped?

Otherwise, all gears work as they should.

OH! And while I'm here - I need to get my engine timed. Whats the procedure for that? I mean, back in the day did they have a timing light? Do you just turn the distributor etc... What 'degree' or whatever does it need to be? (Like "---" top dead center or... not sure how to phrase it.) I wont be doing it but need to find someone that knows how to do these old engines.

Sorry for the newbie questions.. Thanks in advance.

Any ideas??

TIA

Savage,

I think that we're working from different dictionaries here, but I think I catch your meaning.

From what you say, you can't downshift from third to second (away and down to away and up) on your three on the tree. It almost sounds like your syncronizers are shot.

Does it downshift okay if you double-clutch?

Yep, you got it. I tried the double-clutching and that didn't work either.

Its not so bad to drive if you remember when you're coming to a stop to put it up into second or around to first. Or when you're going to park, make sure it isn't in 3rd.

The only drawback would be like making a turn where you want to downshift from 3rd to 2nd to make your turn and then accelerate again. When I turn, I have to keep it in 3rd and lug my way along until back up to speed.

Do regular transmission shops still fix these old transmissions? I can call monday and find out.


Now - about the timing... If one doesn't have a timing light, can I just turn the distributor until it sounds better or just suck it up and save some money to take it to a mechanic? I mean, sitting at an idle it sounds fine. It's when I'm driving that it sputters and backfires up thru the carb. Doesn't matter if I have the choke in or out. Still sputters. Not sure how I'd be able to tell if I had the timing right just sitting there twisting the distributor.
Anything else I should look at besides the timing?

Its got new plugs and wires. Plugs are gapped correctly.

Thanks.

If it stumbles and backfires, more than likely it's the timing. Doesn't matter how, just get it taken care of. Backfiring through the carb will muck up the carb and could possibly start a fire.

Ask around for a mechanic that works on old cars and build a list of local resources if you don't do your own mechanical work. I do all my own tinkering but leave the "serious stuff" up to my mechanic.

That transmission was made from 1934 to 1987 or thereabouts with only minor changes.

Sorry to say, but this is most likely a badly work synchronizer or bearing. Either requires trans removal and disassembly.

One other possible, but slim chance, is the clutch adjustment not fully releasing and placing a load on the gears when stopped.

This trans was used from 49 through the mid - late 60's (with a change to open driveline in 55)when it was replaced by a new Saginaw with all 3 speeds synchronized, so parts or a used replacement should be easy to find.

Thank you, everyone! I have a great transmission place near me that I'll call tomorrow. I'll see if he can recommend a competent mechanic as well.

Another thing to check before you goto the tranny shop or drop the transmission, is to inspect the linkages. Sometimes they get worn and will bind up causing you to not get them out of gear.