The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Subframe for my 37 half ton

Okay... I know that this has all been discussed before, but I can't find exactly what I need. I've done the searches and read until my eyes start to cross. I'm trying to find out if there is a donor car that matches my 37 half ton. The charts I've seen don't include this truck. I've also found a web site that has an aftermarket unit listed for my truck (Hiedt, I think). I know they are a bunch of money, but has anyone used one? How was the intstall. I know I have a lot of cutting and welding with the donor sub frame, how does that compare to the aftermarket pieces?

Thanks for enduring this question once again, but I really did try to find some posts for the 37.

Your best bet is a Mustang-11 front kit. Any of the street rod guys should have a universal kit. Keep the stock frame, it will save a ton of work. You can also keep the stock front end, but add disk brakes and a mono-leaf spring. Add a open drive line and late model rear axle with mono-leaf spring and you know have a lowered, smooth riding, modern front independent front end, with power disk/drum brakes, what more do you want?

The S-10 frame is a close match, but will require some adapting. The problem you are going to find is the cab and nose of the '37 is very narrow, and not many truck frames will fit. Joe

Keep that 37 frame. You haven't said if you will upgrade to a V8 but box if you need to. Joe H is right, keep it simple.

I'm definitely going with V8 and an open drive line. I have a Camaro sub frame with and open drive line set up in my 53 and was thinking I'd go the same route with the 37. After doing the research is seems like the 37 either needs an S 10 frame or a Mustang II sub frame. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. I like the idea of the Mustang II, especially if that is the "simpler" of the choices. Sounds like it is. Do you guys know if there is any way I can keep the original steering column with the Mustang II sub frame?

By The Way... Joe, I have had a picture of your 37 in my screen saver for a while now. I love it. It is my inspiration for my 37. The perfect mix of new and original styling. I want mine to drive as modern as possible but look as original as possible (except for wheels and tires).

Thanks guys.

I just put the tires and cab back on my 46. I installed my first Hiedts (spell?) M II front end, It is the only way to go, everything fit perfect and the stance is perfect. I also installed a TCI 4 link. I am on a tight budget but I feel the money was well spent.

When building a house the most important part of the house is the foundation. The same is true with building your truck. The most important part is the frame/suspension, everything rides on that.

ok Joe talk to me about your truck you say you used the stock axle front and a open drive line rear with a mono leaf springs how well does that work? and how much did it lower your truck?
what bolt pattern and tires do you run with now?as for steering did you use your orginal setup? thanks Earl

I can not comment on the Mono leaf springs, I am still running the factory type stack. I removed three from each front and three or four from the rear, starting with the smallest ones. I added Teflon liner between each leaf and added modern tube shocks to each corner. It still rides like a truck, just a bit smoother and and a lot quieter. If you ever rode in a Jeep, you know what mine is like. I added spacers to the spring packs to keep the factory hight, I might lower it a bit this winter if I get time.

I have a kit on the from axle from Master Power Brakes that adapts second generation Camero/Firebird disk brakes to the straight axle. They use 5x4 3/4" bolt pattern wheels, normal small GM wheels. The rear axle is from a '79 Firebird with the same wheel pattern. The master cylinder is from a manual brake mid '70s Camero so the whole brake system is normal Camero/Firebird parts. It stops just as a Camero will since they are close in weight.

The steering is still the manual factory gear box with all new bushings. Each tie rod end as well as the drag link ends are new factory type as well. Its a [censored] to parallel park, but I can drive on the highway one handed at 65 to 70 mph. Around town it drives pretty easy as long as you are rolling a bit.

If I want a good riding, easy steering, quiet ride I take my Toyota, I like the rough around the edges old truck feel, thats what makes it fun to drive. I have read over the years on this site about the mono-leaf springs, each one that had them really likes how they work. That will be my next change if make one.

Joe

Do you guys know if there is any way I can keep the original steering column with the Mustang II sub frame? Or a can I use my original steering wheel with a newer column that will work easier for me?

Hiedts kits work well and install very easily.. assuming you have access to a good welder... just measure everything about 50 times, mark the center line of the wheels.

Also, if you want the lower stance, specify that you want the 2 inch drop spindles.. (my 39 sat a bit low for my liking with the 2"drops) or get the stock height spindle for a higher stance.

I also found a 76 chevy pickup in a junk yard and pulled off all the brake system parts for my truck (no vacuum assist, front disk rear drums)... it works very well.

I do have access to a good welder, but what do you think about the bolt on subframe from CE?

Re. orig. steering with a Mustang II
Advice is cheap, mine is free, take it for what it is worth.
I would install the Mustang II then try to marry the orig steering shaft to the Mustang box. My experience with the steering shaft is limited as it will be a while before I dive into that wasp nest. Still learning...

Mainjet, if you choose to go with the original steering box, swap out the '37 for a '40 to '46 model. The newer one will fit right in. They changed over to recirculating ball in the newer box so they steer easier then the early box that is just gear to gear. I had one at one time but sold it off cause the truck drove bad, it was the caster angle and not the box, so I am hunting for another one to try. Joe