The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors AD hinges

Okay, I think this forum is highly underused and even less read, but I'll try to stick with the rules and post appropriately.

I'm trying to rebuild my door hinges on my '50 1/2 ton. I've read the posts on cutting out the old bushings, drilling out the old pins and replacing everything with new.

Here's my dilema. The new bushings are paper thin compared to the old steel bushings (look at the red arrows ) Is the old bushing supposed to stay? If so, how am I supposed to cut out the old pin without damaging the old bushing? Or am I misunderstanding the "old busing"?

I dunno, mine are 64's, but I wanted to tell you that blue looks really good on your truck, great job.

I guess my first question would be, where did you find the bushings? Are you sure they're the right ones?

Brothers has hinge and bushing sets here . Is that what your bushings look like?

Yes, that is just what my new bushings look like. You can see the new pin and bushings sitting on top of the hinge in the picture.

Thanks, 64. I'm really excited to see the truck come together and it will have a bit of a surprise under the hood when I'm done. Now all I need is some cooler weather so I can spend some time in the garage.

Any other help out there?

I just replaced those on my 1949 1/2 ton. I left what you are calling steel bushings on. I will refer to them as "spacers". The "spacer" are welded to the outside(?) hinge. I put the brass bushings between these spacers and the inside(?) hinge. Yes, it was tight. Also, I HAD to use the bushing and new pin as my original pins were "broke" in three places. I also had to drill a slightly bigger hole because the new pin was bigger than the old pin AND the bushing is slightly bigger than the hole in the inside hinge. If this is incorrect, someone will correct me. I also think you have a mighty fine looking truck!

Thanks, 49.

The more I looked at it, the more I figured that was going to be the answer. Now the big question. How did you manage to cut out the old pin without mangling those spacers? I used a 4-1/2" grinder with cutoff wheel, but demo'd those spacers. I'm thinking I can use a couple flat washers to fill in that space. A little more paint and no one will know. (except the concourse judges....)

Don't cut them, pound them out using a BFH.

Don't know if that method is going to work on these. The two lower hinges were rusted solid and already broken and just riding on little stubs. Those are already apart and I'll have to fab those spacers out of some stock. I'll try my best to save the ones that are not apart yet.

Thanks for the help. I told my painter to not paint these yet. Looks like I'm going to mess up that shiney blue paint already.

Soak them a coupla days using your favorite penetrating oil, hit them on a hard surface like an anvil-once the pins move just a little, pound them back in after oiling again, kinda work them they will give it up eventually.

Well, I spent a few hours in the garage this afternoon. Turns out we're breaking heat records today. Good day to play hookie and work in the garage.

Anyway. I pounded and pounded and finally worked the pins loose. Unfortunately the paint on the hinges took quite a beating as well.

Final question (hopefully) on this subject. Are these springs installed correctly? Thanks for all the help.

RedGreen,
I know it is a little late, but I didn't have to worry about the spacers as the pin broke between them. The inner hinge just tapped out. The springs look correct to me. If you have any doubts, bolt the hinge to the door pillar (without the door) and swing it back and forth a few times. It should "snap" to the open and closed position. This would also be a good time to "practice" final assembly as the hinges and door are "tricky" and heavy. Re-painting the hinges is one thing, re-painting the doors is heart breaking. Good luck!

Thanks 49. I don't know how I would have gotten this done without 49 and 64. ;-)

I have the passenger side hinges done. I still need to trim the end of the pins off. I drilled everything out to 11/32" as described in the C/D catalog. The pin fits but is not extremely tight. I thought about putting a small tack weld on the top of it to make sure it doesn't work itself out. Any thoughts? I royally screwed up the lower drivers side by using my drill press. Now the hole is off-center. I need to fill it in with JB Weld and start over.

So, if you've done this before, what would you suggest for mounting the doors? Mount the hinges to the doors and lift everything into place or mount the hinges to the cab and lift the doors on? Thanks.

Before you fill the hinge up with JB weld, TRY real hard to get the rest of the old pin out. Maybe then the hole will be "centered" (even if it is oblong). Then do whatever it takes to get a good fit. Use the new bushings as a guide.
As far as re-mounting the doors, I haven't gotten that far. But I had to take the doors off the hinges then the hinges off the door pillar. I was unable to take the door AND the hinges off as a unit. So I guess I am going to reverse the process I used to get 'em off. I know there will be a whole lot of "adjusting" to do. Hopefully a door guru will come along and lead us through the wilderness!

I highly recommend that you mount the hinges to the cab first. Then slide the doors on the hinges. Trying to rassle the hinges into place with the door on would be a difficult task and you risk dinging the doors in the process.

Put a little grease on the hinge arms (remember how hard they were to get off?), and the doors should slide right on.

I'm going to try to get the rest of the pin out this afternoon. I was trying to think of how I can put something in there to keep the pin cavity from filling with JB Weld so I don't have to start from scratch.

Thanks for the advice, baldeagle. I'll put some grease on there this afternoon and try to get one door hung.

Personally, I think I would just weld the hole up a little and use a round file to true it up (remember you have a bushing). However, I have heard rumors of people who have put the pin in the hinge and "packed" JB weld into the gaps. They said the trick was to keep the pin turning so it wouldn't stick to the JB Weld and then pull the pin completely out before the JB set. Beware!! You will have a complete and total MESS if you cannot get the oin out. Good Luck.

Got this info from Jim Carter:
My person at the edge of town will rebuild them at $30.00 each. The 1955 and older hinges do not use bushings. Someone would have had to drill the pin hole larger to take a bushing. What are your thoughts?

My response:
I just !@#$ up a perfectly good set of nearly irreplaceable door hinges because of vendors (not you) selling me parts that aren’t correct for the model years they are selling them for. I’ve already drilled out the hinges to get the bushings to fit. Now I’ll have to figure out how to fix them. Sorry. Bad day. Back to the drawing board. Here, can you tie this blindfold on me so I can try to figure out these parts?

RedGreen,

I am not following your last post. Did Jim Carter say that the Classic Parts hinge repair set is incorrect?

Jim Carter sells an oversized pin as a repair. Classic Parts sells a pin and bushing set as a repair. They both work fine - they are simply different ways of "repairing" a loose hinge pin.

I have used both types of repairs but both have been in use for only 5 years, so I have no opinion on which might be better.

Tim

RedGreen,
I am going to have to agree with tclederman. These kits were meant to "repair" the hinge, not replace it. I haven't put the doors back on my truck, but I have fixed and replaced the doors and hinges on my 74 Nova (7 years ago). Both the truck and the car had "wallered" out hinge holes and broken pins, neither had bushings. They do now. But I guess I am a "hacker", because I want the doors and hinges to function correctly. I am a form follows function kinda guy. So if it is not 100% museum quality correct, well I can live with that. Good Luck! Your truck will be fine.

Thanks guys. I've gone through some major learning curves with this truck. Other cars/trucks that I've worked on were not as old so they could be taken back to somewhat stock. This truck has been more about learning how to make it work better.

After I posted my last comment, I went out into the garage with the two hinges that are finished and mounted the passenger door. It went on with no problems and works perfectly. It needs some adjusting (maybe a new post), but it looks great. I'll post some pictures this afternoon.

I'm jumping in on this a little late here. I am rebuilding a set of hinges for a friend. I have my set that I will be doing in the near future, so I am getting some practice.

The kit my buddy gave me had no bushings just as original. It has enlarged pins and that is it. I thought I would do a photo "Basics of Basics" on the subject and did a search here to find it anyone had done it (is there a need in other words) that is how I found this thread.

I am thinking, brass bushings are "better", I have put many of them in Chevy pickups and such. Here is thread I posted on installing the bushings.... http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-3-11-07-a-111097.html

But the way I look at it, the original AD lasted decades with no bushings, I guess mine will be done the same and last decades (actually twice as many decades being it isn't driven everyday).

But I think I will put together a little photo essay on the subject.

Brian

martinsr; it may be on down in the door forum post but someone listed or linked us to a guy who did a "purrfect" job on his door hinge pins. He defined the size to drill the middle part of the hinge and also the top and bottom hole of the hinge. I got an education on what an "R" drill bit is. It was the best info I had seen as far as exactly what size to use and on which holes. Perhaps it would help you if you stay original? Just trying to help...oh, I wrote that size and info down "somewhere" or I would list it here again. Mmmm, its in the shop...somewhere.

That's cool, I could't find it. I did do a photo esay on it, maybe there is some new info along with the other one that can be helpful.

Heres the link to the tread.. http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=43&t=000210#000000

Brian