The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Failed finish removal question

I have removed most of a failed pelucid finish from my bedwood, peeled right off like it had not adhered to the wood. The bottom (which was brushed on) is really solid, and doesn't want to come of easily. Should I try to remove it? Or should I leave it alone and refinish the top only? And if it does need to be removed, what will strip it off without damaging the wood? I do not have access to a planer, so that option is out.

Bill,

Obviously, all traces of the previous finish would have to be removed to give the new finish a chance to adhere and survive.

There are chemical strippers available, but they might affect painted areas on the interior of the bed, or the metal strips, if they are painted.

If you are 'real serious' about this, removing the wood and refinishing it is the absolute answer...but probably tons of work.

At the very least, I would remove the metal strips and either chemically strip the remaining finish, or mechanically..sand..remove it.

There are lots of nooks and crannies for stripper to hide in and botch the new finish. I see a 'in bed fix' as very work intensive.

The work that is put into redoing the pretty bed wood would be directly proportionate to your 'anal-factor'.

Stuart

Actually, I've removed most of the wood, only the 2 outer boards are still in and their comming out as soon as I raid the scrap pile for similar size peices to hold the bedsides up.
I want to remove all the old rinish, but Pelucid is as hard as hammered heck, don't want to kill myself sanding it off. I'm somewhat reluctant on the chemical stripper unless there's one that will take off Pelucid without damaging the wood. I have some Redi-Strip leftover from doing the body work, but it says not to use it on wood as it'll raise the grain and stain the wood.
If anybody know of a product that will work, i'd greatly appriciate the info.

Bill,

The absolute cats meow would be to find a cabinet shop with a wide belt sander and have them sneak about .005 off the top of your boards.

Stuart

Longbox55: As you know our testing showed the pelucid to be very durable when coated with a UV resistant topcoat. In fact, the pine sample that is sealed with pelucid and topcoated with Helmsman has lasted for a year and a half outdoors 24/7 and still looks great. It is the only clear finish in this test that has not failed. If you are going to coat the boards with a clear or natural finish, why not just leave the pelucid there on the bottom and scuff it to make another couple coats stick to it. As you already indicate, it is quite a tough coating.

It is likely the top surfaces of your wood finish failed due to breakdown of both the wood fibers and the pelucid, which is not resistant to UV. Consider removing the failed Pelucid only on top and ends, sanding to expose good wood, then recoating with several coats of Pelucid and then topcoating everything with your favorite marine varnish.

Mar-Ktech

I wonder why all of the POR products seem to be severe duty, rust stopping, bullet proof coatings, then along comes PELUCID, which says right on the can...'interior use'. What was the intended use for this "non-architectural" product?.

Stuart

Even though POR-15 is very durable, it is not resistant to the UV. I think that it is kind of a trade-off. It won't last in exposed areas by itself. Always coat them with UV resistant topcoats.

The intended use for Pelucid is areas not exposed to the sunlight. Case in point, the bottom of LONGBOX55 boards. It is still very durable and difficult to remove.


Mar-Ktech

Longbox, I know you said you didn't have access to a planer but I just have to say....surely there is a HIGH SCHOOL or Vocational or Tech school close by. These usually have planer and will gladly to it for you if no one else is around. I just thought you may have not given these a thought.