The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed What kind of marine finish on wood

Its been a few years since I finished my 37 oak bed with Spar-Urethane and it has held up pretty good. BUT, I remember reading somewhere of a Marine type finish that is used on sailboats and others that really last. I know of a marine place close by but would like some Hands on experience/opinions. I thought maybe there is something better to use when I redo it? Thanks gang

I would suggest visiting you local paint store(Porter's/Sherwin Williams etc..) They have "Marine Spar Varnish". I have used it on my front door and threshold and it is hard, durable and applys easily. It only comes in Gloss finish. Use double or triple 0 steel wool to prep the surface and then wipe with a tack rag and your good to apply.

A.c: Take a look at our updated test information on bed wood finishes. http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_update_12_05.html We are testing 10 finish systems and previously tested 10 others. Marine Spar is not the best for long term durability in the weather. It stays pretty for a long time if the bed is protected. We have varnished bedwood in the showroom display that has been there 10+ years and it still looks great. In continuous outdoor testing, the same finish lasted only a few months.

If you have some time before doing the bed, we suggest that you select a finish and do your own test to see which is best for you. Put it in your own real world situation and see if it holds up.

Mar-Ktech

Ktech, I check your test info. After reading it I see one thing I did wrong to an otherwise beautiful job. I did NOT put on a primer. I noticed you used the Helsman Minwax which is what I used previouly. It still looks fairly good but needs freshening. Perhaps its due to no primer. I did do ALL sides and used 3 coats. I will surely use a primer this time. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

It depends on what kind of failure you are experiencing. I am not a chemist or coatings expert and hopefully a board member who is will correct my thinking. The main failure mode for clear coatings is either separation from the wood or breakdown due to UV exposure. Clear (unpigmented) coatings have UV absorbers to protect from sunlight. Being an "absorber" it will eventually break down from UV exposure and not be able to absorb any more UV and it begins to pass the UV through to the wood. This will deteriorate the wood as well as the finish and it will occur even if a primer/sealer is used. Any transparent coating will need to be refreshed every now and then to maintain the UV protection. The nice sailboats and yachts do maintenance coatings every few months or maybe a year at most when they are in full exposure to the weather. If you are only seeing darkening or dulling of the finish, sanding and recoating may be all that is required to replenish the UV protection. You did not mention what kind of failure you are having with the bed wood.

Smith and Co, the supplier of our CPES epoxy, has a good article on their site about making finishes last in the weather. I don't have their website here now.

Mar-Ktech

the failure was due to the "back" of the bed being exposed for 2-3 years while going through a divorce and it was parked at my nephew, he had a big house garage but no door so the back of it was "exposed". it started breaking down. As an update I just got back from my cabinet maker friend who planed it down a little for me. I just got through sanding it smooth, and heading to Sherwin-Williams for some primer. I do use the Helmsman as mentioned earlier and it really did a good job but like you said....over time something has to give!!! I will look nice in a day or two.....and then on the road again~~~~ready for springtime. Thanks everyone.

i'm finishing my yellow pine with tung oil. looks nice and since my 53 gmc 1/2 ton is garaged, it'll last a lifetime. it's also very easy to apply.
tony

Tony, Tung oil is fantastic stuff, but it does need renewing every couple years, and more often the more it's exposed to ultraviolet - it also darkens with repeated applications - been my favorite wood finish for decades

Bill

yep, I've used it before to back when I did a right good bit of woodwork. It is tough stuff. I hope after doing my bed its the last time. I figure AGE will catch up with me this time before the UV rays get the wood!!!!

I've experimented with different finishing techniques to create a show quality bed that is long-lasting. This process takes a long time...but the reults are worth it! (Drying time is key to a great finish!...the dryer the varnish the better the finish).
I've used oil based stain to create the color/look I was looking for...
Followed by 2 coats of thinned out (50/50) oil based spar varnish(let dry for at least 36 hours per coat).
Lightly sanded with 320 grit
Cleaned & tack clothed
One(1)coat spar varnish full strength (let dry at least 72 hours)
Lightly sand w/ 320 grit and clean & tack
2nd Coat spar varnish (let dry 72 hours)
Lightly sand w/ 320 and clean & tack
From new can-3rd coat spar varnish (let dry 72 hours).
Wet/block sand w/600 grit
Wet/block sand w/1000 grit
Clean & tack
With electric buffer work with medium 3M rubbing compound
Clean and buff with 3M Polishing compound to a glass-like finish
Apply 3M Wax and buff.
This process will provide a world class "glass" finish that will last for a longtime.
(PS: Remember to put a least 3 coats of varish on the bottom of the wood slats)

Thanks for posting this detailed information. What is your recommended brand or supplier of the oil base exterior varnish? We tested numerous finishes about 15 years ago and one of the products was a Sherwin Williams oil base exterior varnish. It had the best results of all finishes we tested at that time. If I could find that test sample board today, it probably would still look good. SW has discontinued making that product and I have not found anything similar to test. We were more interested in durability than the gloss of the finish, but it was apparent that when working with oil base finishes, the full dry time is very important.

Mar-Ktech

Mar-Ktech..I use Mc Closkey's "Gloss" Oil Base Spar Varnish (Home Depot?).

Thanks, We will check it out.

Mar-Ktech

This is a little disappointing, if I am hearing correctly, it seems that varnishing the bed wood lasts up to a year at best and months at worse before needing to be redone? I was hoping that it would last years in the Florida sun with only yearly waxing? Maybe I should just paint the bed black, like the originals?

you got it jo - varnish is a non-original finish for lookin pretty [which we know is only skin deep ], paint is the original work truck finish GM knew would work better for longer, and be easier to touch up if desired - I think by 55 the bed floor was painted body color

Bill

Varnishing by itself generally lasts only a few months in the sun. We have had a little better luck with some two stage coating systems in our tests http://www.mar-k.com/wood_finish_testing_ii.html, but they have only been exposed for about 6 months. We used an epoxy from RAKA http://www.raka.com/ as a sealer/primer on some of our test samples. They are knowledgeable about using clear finishes on boats. How close are you to Ft. Pierce where they are located? Maybe they can suggest the best natural finish for your location and climate.

Mar-Ktech

Actually, I am one town north. I will check them out. I will wait and see how the RAKA expoxy/PPG clearcoat holds up. I can't fit my 55 NAPCO in my garage, it will be out in the summer sun and weather, so I am wondering if painting it black is best? Has anyone used Rhino liner in their bed?

Has anyone tried using Teak oil? A friend who is a boat builder swears by it.

Andy