The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs body stress joints - using Lead?

My 52 Chevy suburban is finally out of storage and getting the attention it deserves.

I noticed that at four of the roof to side intersections - one behind the driver door, behind the passenger door and between each rear side window and the barn doors- there is a lump of what appears to be lead. I understand this was sometimes used in body work. If this was body work, it was really BAD body work. Do these locations tend to have any cracking/separating issues? I'd like to have some idea what I'm getting into before I go shaving this stuff off.

Mike

the factory assembly used lead at those points in all the panel/burbs, all years - don't be takin it off unless yer prepared to replace it or weld those points!

Bill

Yeah what Bill said, and I have seen them crack after the truck is painted. Melt it out, don't breath the fumes. Weld it up.

I am so glad I asked! I can see myself going at those lumps and having the roof fall off!

Seriously, thanks. I've never seen a restored 'burb or panel with these 'growths' so thought mine might have been a shade tree upgrade.

Mike

From your description you are looking at areas where the factory used lead.

But I would not expect to see lumps or growths, once painted those joints should be nearly impossible if not impossible to locate. You may need to melt the lead out and do some repair. I wonder if there is rust under neath...

Lead was also used in the windshield posts and in the cowl panels. Do you see lumps or growths there?

Yeah,,,same here

If it's not smooth, there's probably cancer underneath, pushing thre lead up. Grind/melt it out, and repair whatever rust you might find. There's a reason for using lead instead of Bondo- - - - -the lead will flex and not crack or peel. Sculpting with lead is a lost art, not many of us left who know how to do it. I'd reccomend against doing a full weld. Those seams were left tack-welded and filled for a reason!
Jerry

My burb has all these joints and from the factory they are definetly not show quality. Back then they were built to get them out the door. Mine shows some cracks and I am going to leave them as is, after all this is the way they came from the factory. My .02. Weeds

Here is my .02
I have a burb that was converted years ago to 4X4 and used really rough. I have credited the bad look of the lead at those areas to flexing in the body due to above mentioned abuse. I remember how much the frame on my 1951 GMC 1/2 ton flexed in normal use. These cabs were mounted solidly in front and on shackles at the rear to isolate the cabs from the frame. butthe panels and burbs were mounted solid at all 8 body mounts and my theory is - when the frame flexes the body does too - hence the bubling of the lead. I have always been impressed with the lead work on any pickup cabs I have seen so I think it is a problem unique to the burbs and panels.
Lets lobby GM and see if we can get them fixed on some kind or recall thing !!
Ter

Ahhhhh, i can see it now. An old truck show at the dealer. Everyone shows up to have their lead seams repaired.......................
The guys(kids) in the body shop asking,,"whats this metal stuff where bondo should be?)

first try 52;
Whatever you do, DO NOT use a torch or try to seam Mig weld these joints. These joints are made of .035' steel with no back support. They are spot welded and if you try and put any large amount of heat on them, they will warp.
I worked for GM for 37 years and was responsible for supplying Resistance Spot Welders for the Body Shop. Stan N.

Hey Stan:
Your experience is impressive.
If these joints have been flexing, what would you suggest as a proper repair ?
Ter

I will answer both Ter & TooMany2Count;
If you will note I said in my message not to SEAM Mig weld. You can as TM2C says spot mig taking lots of time to let the area cool before the next spot.
If you can get inside the joint, place a bar of copper as a back-up and then weld.
Just before I retired from GM these joints were being Mig welded with a silicon bronze material, but with a water cooled copper block in behind.
Hope this answers your questions. Stan