The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs Centering a new rearend

Hi all, I just found out that you guys move your new rearends back a little because the original axel was not centered in the wheel wells. Thanks to Longbox55.
My body is off the frame and I have no way to visually make an adjustment. Does anyone know the exact measurement to set back a new rearend to center it. I have a '54 panel and will be installing a '76 Nova rearend.

Ted, I'm not sure I exactly understand the question but I'll give it a shot. Find the center of your rear springs. My 37 actualy had a centering "pin" sticking up but the Malibu rear end would be off center if I used it as is. So, I cut me a 1/2 inch steel plate, then cut a hole in it for the original pin to stick up into. Next I moved the Malibu rear end till I had it centered in my rear wheelwell and marked it. Since I was using about 3inch lowering block I threaded a hex head bolt up into the lowering block so it would fit down into the "second" hole I drilled in the plate. Once it was sitting down/centered in the plate, I then set the Malibu rear end on top of the lowering block and the rear end was centerd. I hope you can follow all this or understand? Sure hope it helps.

Thank you Achipmunk.
I understand your process. You centered the malibu rearend axel over the original center pins using the fabrication process you described correct?
My understanding about Advanced Design panels (47 - 54) is that the original centering pins were actually forward of the center of the wheel wells. So when people replace the rearend they move it back a little in order to have a more centered look. If this is true then I would like to know how far behind the original centering pins the new rear axel center should be. Since my body is off the frame I can not make a visual adjustment. I may be all wrong here, so please correct me. Thanks for the time.

I set mine at 1 1/2 inches. I also drilled a hole for 2 inches just in case. But I was happy with 1 1/2".

When I set up the spring perches on my 37 pickup, I used some perches made for both regular center pin set ups in the middle of the wheel opening, like my truck has, and for AD trucks which have the pins offset. The distance between the two is 2", so the offset is figured at 2".

Joe

my new 12 bolt (77 suburban 1/2ton axle) is back 2-1/2''
I used the 1-1/2'' kit from chevy duty
http://www.classicparts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=93-311
and still added a 7''x1-1/2''x1/4'' plate welded to the bottom of that 3'' U axle part of the kit. That 3'' U axle kit part has a hole for the re~centering the pin of the springs back @ 1-1/2''. I drilled a hole in the new 1/4'' plate to locate the spring pin back 1 more inch then welded the new plate to the U axle part. this was needed to clear my under bed gas tank to fit in front of the axle and high up into the frame. I used my old stock gas tank filler neck (rotated 180 degrees) to now fill the new under bed tank.
but
It sits beautifully and is a well centered tire.
i had to get a new drive shaft anyway so what the heck.

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=009535;p=1#000003

Ted, On my 49 suburban I moved the axle back 2 inches. I drilled two holes in the adapter plate that I made 2 inches apart. The wheel looks centered in the wheel well now. Of course the wheelbase is no longer 116 inches but that would matter only to a purist. Good luck on your project.

Weeds

Thank you all so much. I am putting my Nova rearend in tomorrow. I will move it back either 1-1/2 or 2 inches. You guys have saved me from being devestated at final assembly and wondering why my rear wheels arn't centered. You can be assured I will have more questions in the near future. This is a kick *** site.

Is it possible that my Passenger's rear wheel sits forward MORE than my Driver's rear wheel? I guess anything's possible. It's much closer to the fender than the other side.

Glad someone started this thread. It's cool to have a site where people post answers to questions that haven't even really formed yet.

Bent spring, warped fender, twisted body, twisted frame, etc. Could be anything. Even one of the springs put in backwards. Time to start measuring.

joelmorain,

I think even a small discrepancy in the geometry of the rear end will show itself when you drive the truck down the road. I call it "crabbing"..you have probably seen it. A vehicle travels straight down the road, but at a angle, depending on which way the axle is cocked.

Broken center bolts are a common cause of this problem.

Stuart

Ted, just an FYI, some folks say that if you flip the springs end to end, the mounting pin ends up so that axle centers in the middle of the wheel well. I never tried it and you would have to switch the bushing and threaded sleeve on the spring. In addition if you are welding up spring perches be aware of your rear end pinion angle. The angle of the pinion shaft to level should mirror the angle of transmission shaft. Good luck,
Steve O

My 49 Chevy pickup has original spring perches that set the axle back 1-1/2". First I have seen that the wheels were originally centered with the torque tube rearend.