The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering problem

My 66 Chevy pickup had a tilt steering column and a later model power steering box on it when I bought it a few years ago. I soon noticed the steering cut much shorter in one direction than the other. I put the REZ adapter on and corrected the geometry problem. Everything is good now, except my steering wheel is a half turn out. I tried to correct this buy removing the wheel, but it is in the correct position and doesn't need to be moved. I also attempted to move the pitman arm around some, but I wasn't able to help it any...the keyed turns were either too much or not enough. What is causing this problem? I would guess the steering column and steering box are out of a late 70's model truck. Could the pitman arm be incorrect? I measured it and it seems to be 5 1/2" from center to center...is this correct? Thanks.

Most likely, it's a toe problem. I'd suggest taking it to an alignment shop and have the alignment angles (toe, camber, and caster) set to spec. That should take care of the problem.

It,s true on the 73 up columns you can,t pull the wheel & put it anywhere you want. Measure the distance in relation to the inner tie rod ends to the frame. They should be centered. When they are centered see were the steering wheel is. You can set the toe in yourself but you shouldn,t try to center the wheel with it or the whole thing may be out of center. It may be a mis match of parts causing it to be out of center & you may have to heat & twist the D- shaft to get it right. I know it,s confusing but it,s about the best I can explain with one finger.

I'll add a correction to what i posted. I did mean that if the toe was off center, that could be the problem. But if toe ( and the other angles) are ok, then there's some issue in the rest of the steering gear. Perhaps the D shaft is 180 out?

I think part of the problem is the newer model parts being mated to the older model steering link. The pitman arm is off of a newer model vehicle, but I assume all the rest of the steering linkage is original non-power steering original 66 stuff. I think what you are sayin is correct, adjusting the tie rods in enough might correct the problem, but looking at them now they seem to be most of the way in. I might have to take it to an alignment shop.

Here's a trick we use on the round track racers sometimes. Look at the splines on the steering gear end of the Pitman arm, and you'll probably find at least one wide spline, with a corresponding area on the sector shaft of the steering gear. With a little careful work with a 3-cornered file, you can create a spline pattern on the Pitman arm that can be adjusted one spline at a time to help center the steering. Just split the wide spline into two regular-width ones. The tightness of the Pitman arm nut and the tapered shaft will keep things tight, even without the wide spline.
Jerry

That is a good idea. There are 4 wide splines...I will use this as a last resort if I can't find any other way to straighten it out.
Am I not correct in thinking that most of this could be taken out by adjusting the tie rod ends, or will that not do what I need to do? I realize I might have to find some shorter tie rod ends since most of the adjustment has already been used...they are run all the way in on both sides.

Just be sure there are enough threads left in the turnbuckle to get the tie rod end solidly clamped. Hitting a bump or pothole at speed and stripping a tie rod out of the turnbuckle can get pretty exciting.
Jerry

Is the steering shaft/column original? Has it been cut and a piece installed between the box and the column or is the original rag joint used to connect to the new box? The misalignment will more than likely be at the box and column connection,
Scott

The column is not original, but the steering shaft was not cut...it is the two piece telescoping type with the nylon locks. The rag joint is used.

you may try using the 68-87 drag link/idler arm setup. It will use the reg pitman arm but the idler arm mounting is different. Search bolter TEXMO here there is some measurements on drilling the 2 new holes. This may give you the adjustment needed.

You may get the wheel centered by using the tie rod adjustments but if the gear is not in center when you are straight ahead it won,t drive as good & might not turn all the way in one direction. There has been some posts on this sight about checking toe-in yourself. I would get a rough measurement & make shure it,s not way off. If you don,t find it some of us will tell how to check it.

So if I understand correctly, the pitman arm needs to be straight when the wheel is straight if I am going to be able to correct this with the tie rods? I can't remember if it is or not, I will check it tonight. Thanks again for all the good information.

The Pitman arm, idler arm, and the "relay rod" from the pitman to the idler should form a rectangle when the steering gear is centered. Once that's established, point the wheels straight ahead and adjust the tie rods to complete the hookup. You should have an equal amount of wheel travel when turning in either direction. If everything is matched up with the original design, the inner tie rod pivots should be very nearly in alignment with the lower control arm pivot points. This will minimize "bump steer" as the control arms and tie rods are moving in an almost identical arc.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, that really put it in terms I can understand. I will take a look at it this week and see if I can determine what needs to be done.

Jerry, looks like you nailed it. When I put the wheel straight, the pitman arm is straight, when I turn it where it runs straight down the road, the pitman arm is turned a little. Also, the tie rods on the drivers side is run almost all the way up, on the passengers side they are run out a good ways. It looks like some adjusting on the tie rods will correct the problem. I plan to buy new tie rods anyway. Thanks for all the help everyone...this was driving me crazy!