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Joined: Feb 2006
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Trying to find a power brake conversion for my '62 manual trans truck. I need to keep the hydraulic clutch system.
Does anyone know what companies sell a conversion kit that includes the hydraulic clutch system?

Thanks,
-Brad


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Try classic performance products. They are pretty pricey. $450 to $500 range. Here is the part # MT6062BB28D.


1961 k-10
86 c-20
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Brad,
I've had great luck with brake components from Praise Dyno Brake (http://www.praisedynobrake.com). Faced with the same pricey dilemma on my '62, I called Dyno Brake to see what could be done about improving the performance of my manual brakes. They advertise a 30% increase in braking performance with their components and I believe it! I used their drums and pads and the differnce is night and day over the old stuff and it bolts right on. My only regret is that I didn't buy their wheel cylinders - they are overbored which will reduce the pedal pressure necessary to achieve satisfactory braking. They have some sort of cryogenic treatment which enhances the ability of the drums to disperse heat. Their parts are more expensive than stock replacements from one of the catalogs, but I have no regrets. Good luck with your project.

Kyle


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'Bolter
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If you're staying stock (drum/drum brakes), just add Hydra-Vac booster. They work very well and can be mounted about anywhere,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

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I can get by with manual brakes...I've often thought one of the biggest things against drum brakes on early cars is that they wouldn't self-adjust so the owner needs to go under the vehicle and monkey with them. I'm going to convert them to self-adjust with a kit from Schafers Classic Restoration parts to take care of that. That will make a huge difference.
My biggest concern is running the single reservoir master cylinder. Blow a line, a seal or wheel cylinder and you've got no brakes.
In the case of my '54 Buick, I blew a rear wheel cylinder, which put me down to a single rear drum with the emergency brake (the other side was covered with fluid). A car won't stop with one drum. Neither will a heavy '62 Suburban.

I figure upgrading to self-adjust drums and a power booster will make the performance much, much better--but the big factor for me is the dual reservoir master cylinder. I drive the truck daily, and put 20,000 on it last year--and every one of those miles was with the knowledge that the brakes could fail each time I pushed the pedal.

I saw the CPP master cylinder kit, and will probably go with them, unless anyone knows another source that's cheaper.

How much was the Praise Brake Dyno stuff?

-Brad
-Brad


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You can convert the 62 to 63-up mechanical clutch linkage pretty easy, that would open up some possibilties.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
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I'd have to swap the bellhousing, as the hydraulic slave is on the passenger side. And while a bellhousing swap isn't that big a deal, it's one more thing I need to buy, in additon to all the linkage, that I just don't want to deal with.
Also, I'm keeping the stock engine mount configuration--bellousing mounts in back/cradle in front.
Just one of the joys of owning a '60-'62!
-Brad


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A 63-up to 72(?) bellhousing still has the mounts in back. I got all the linkage, pedal, crossarm, even a bell etc you could have for the shipping. Sure would simplify things, I know a fella w/a 60 that did it to his.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
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64fleetside--You have mail!
-Brad


SOUTHERN FALL GABfest
October 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia
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Never Pee on an Electric Fence.

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