The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake Booster Install Question

I received my brake booster from Chevy Duty (actually came from Classic Performance Products) for my '65 C-10. When I go to line it up on the firewall, only one bolt hole matches up (the lower right). The lower left hole is too far to the right and lower to line up, and there aren't any holes for the top of the mount. I'm guessing that this isn't going to be a bolt in modification. I'm thinking it may be easier to make a mounting bracket with studs welded on both sides. Anybody else run into this?

Thanks.

Lee

The one I installed on my 1963 c10 I had too drill two holes in the fire wall to mount the booster.

LeeA:

When installing a factory power brake booster, you must drill one hole and it's location is dimpled on the firewall. I have converted several of my '64-'66 Chevy trucks to power brakes using the factory power brake booster and mounting wedge. I am not sure what drilling or modifications are required when utilizing a custom power brake booster.

In either case, there is some drilling of the firewall required. Good luck with your project.

Tony

At looking at CPP's website, it looks like I need their Firewall Mounting Plate.
http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/6072FP.pdf

For $320 for the booster, you would think they would throw in the mounting plate... or at least recommend you buy one when you place the order for the booster. "Oh yeah, you might want to buy the adaptor plate if you intend on installing this thing".

Lee

Called CCP... "no adaptor needed, you should be able to loosen the bolts in the booster bracket and make it fit". The part shown in the installation instructions doesn't exist in their computer or catalog. Screw it, I'll just make my own mounting plate using their instructions for a part that doesn't exist.

Lee

Lee,
I just installed one on a 65 C-20 that I got from ABS. It fit just fine with the existing holes. The existing MC holes lined up and I removed 2 bolts on the firewall which also lined up. There has been a lot written about CPP, mostly they just push parts across the counter and if you have a problem they are not much help. That's a sad commentary when you pay that much for something.
Fred

Thanks, yeah this is just the first impression... I've got a whole front disc brake setup from them too. I wonder what other surprises I'm in for.

Lee

Lee,
The whole premise of this aftermarket stuff is that it is supposed to be a bolt on otherwise we could go to Pick Your Part and get something and make it work. I don't have any problem making them squirm by stopping payment on the credit card. That usually gets their attention. I can't tell how many times I've taken something back to the Truck Shop that was in no way going to work and have them tell me that it's the first time they heard of the problem. Bull! Good luck with the conversion, I hope it works out.
Fred

Lee... we had the same issue with ours (also from CPP). Instead of drilling holes we used the the 2 opposite holes. It was definitly a pain to line up. When we called we got the exact same answer you did.

I am still having probs with the back drums. They lock up if you step on the brakes too fast. One of these days we will get that bug worked out. The push rod seems to be too long because the pedal engages too far back.

The front disk kit that we got from them had no issues at all. Make sure you bench bleed it first. We didnt and it took forever to get all the air out..lol. Had to take it all off again and do it right.

Good luck. I dont know much but I hope I helped a little.

I am thinking a proportioning valve may be in order.

here is a good article with a write up on proportioning valves:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml


-W

I'm in the process of installing a proportioning valve on my 66 and let me tell you that part is easy, bending new line and flaring is a pain in the rear.