The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk AD power steering

I know, I know! I have looked thru all of the search topics but have not found the answer yet.I am not the only one that wants to put ps on my truck with the original steering column and drop axle, but has any one done it without going with a rack or tilt wheel? My truck is '48 and 1/2 ton. Chevrolet (what else is there :^) Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

botiessr4me, I am in the process of gathering the parts to do the job you are asking about. I am going to put power steering on my 53.
My plan is to use the steering parts from a 60's vett. This is a kind of a power assist system. I have the piston, controler and the hoses that I got off of e-bay.
The hardest part is to find a pulley for the harmonic balencer on a 235. I found a pulley from a after market AC unit that bolts to the crank pulley. That thing is like the Holy Grail to find. A friend gave it to me. A lot of people are using a balancer form a 250 inline and machining it to fit the 235 crank. I have already installed an AC unit and I am using the double pulley on it for the alternater so I had to find a crank pulley.
I plan to use a small PS pump with a remote tank. Looks like it will be a tight fit.
I haven't worked out the brackets yet but it shouldn't be that much trouble. Like I said I am in the process of gathering parts now. More to come.

Tom

There is a kit that uses a 70's or 80's pickup power steering box which is often combined with a tilt column, but which can be done with a modified stock column.

If you are running an original type motor the power steering pump can be a challenge.

There are some pictures on the link below of how I did it

Grigg

I used a box off of a Toyota 4wd pickup. It mounts so the pitman arm is outside the left framerail like most old trucks and travels in the same arc. To use the factory column you have to make a bushing for the bottom of the tube for the steering shaft because the tube used to anchor to the box and the shaft is one piece from inside the box to the steering wheel. You then have to push down against the spring under the steering wheel to where the gap is right and clamp a collar on the shaft just under the bottom bushing. You will also need to anchor the tube to the floor at the bottom since it's no longer attached to the steering box. Now you can use shafts, rag joints, U joints or whatever it takes to connect the steering shaft to the steering box. Alot of work to keep the original column plus the crank pulley and plumbing all the hoses. With the salvage yards recieving more cars with the electric power steering all self contained inside the column that is a route I'm definitely going to explore. It would be nice to just plug in and go.

There are bearings sold from the usual vendors to put in the bottom of the column when you cut it off. That part is really not that hard. You will have to make a bracket to hold the column at the floor. I think these two things are much simpler than swapping a column that looks out of place in the truck.

Grigg

Thanx guys. ALL of this info really helps. Coilover I think I'm gonna go your way. Appreciate everything!!!!!!!!! Mike

Coilover, what year Toyota truck box did you use and did the pitman arm work ok with your ball joints?
-Mike

Mike, it's from the mid 80's--I think they're the same for years. The eBayer's know they are popular with the old truck guys and have them for sale regularly. Mine run $185 with shipping. I spliced the Toyota pitman arm top to the original bottom. Be sure to have this done by a qualified welder.

I second the qualified welder for the pitman arm.

Was just at a truck show and heard a story about someone welding two pitman arms together on a big truck. They ground them a little for the weld, but not all the way to a point. Then after welding ground the weld off smooth. The story ended with a wrecked truck and a dead person.

Remember the strongest welds are complete welds, with absolutely no unwelded portion at the weld joint. Make the first pass on one side, then grind from the other side until you get into the new weld all the way across, then continue welding.

Grigg

I'm surprised more folks aren't using the Toyota boxes on their AD trucks. As coilover pointed out the mid 80's 4wd pickup box, as well as the Land Cruiser box can easily be mounted in the original location....it's appreciably smaller than the stock box, which might help out if you're running a V8 with headers and it lines up perfectly with the stock column.

I've used the Toyota box in a number of trucks and found them to be reliable, reasonably priced, extremely rugged and the mounting position eliminates hanging the GM box outboard on the very front of the frame.

I've got a couple pics at the end of my Tips and tricks album. The mounting bracket is simply a couple pieces of 1/4 or 3/8 angle with gussets.

Dave

Hey Dave, I started to install the toyota route but could not find a box for less than 400.00, thats why I was going the way of the front mount chevy box.Do you know where I can purchase a toyo box cheeper? Thanx, Mike

Hey Mike, I just go to one of the larger salvage yards...they put it out on their computer and I've been lucky so far, box, pitman arm, high pressure and return hoses, for $175-$225.00.(That includes shipping it in.) Lots of yards in Alabama, Arkansas and Mississippi are tied in with the parts system. I've found one on our local Craigslist also. I'm looking for the tiny little Toyo pump...about half the size of the Saginaw pump....the Sag pump works fine, but I want to mount it down low...probably run it off my 2nd groove on the a/c compressor.

I guess there are a bunch of folks running the GM outboard box but I just don't like it's looks or having that much twisting on the front of the frame.

Dave

Hey Dave check your pm. Thanx , bowties

Just a quick note about welding steering components in Canada: 25 years ago when I got my 'ticket', any welding on steering parts by a journeyman welder could cost the welder his 'ticket' (he would lose his way of making a living).

It is (or at least was) illegal in Canada to weld on ANY components of a vehicles' steering system.

It would be far better to have a pitman arm (or any component) machined to fit the particular application.

Are you willing to bet YOUR life and anyone else who rides with you (kids, grandkids) on the weld?

Lane

Likewise here in the US, the law says something to the effect of modifying any steering component is illegal.
Therefore even reaming the taper in a pitman arm to fit a different drag link, or cutting a steering column off the original box to reuse, pretty much anything that is not just bolted on parts from the shelf of the parts store is a no no. I guess you could consider using parts from a different vehicle modifying too....

I say use your best judgment, get a few second opinions and you should be fine, unless the law catches up with you.

Been welding for 57 years. Worked on cars that ran three abreast 130 through the turns at Knoxville, 300 on the dragstrip, through the gullies and hills of Baha, 200 in boats, on pull tractors with hundreds of pounds of weights hung on the front end, all with welded steering and suspension components and NEVER had one fail. That pitman arm may get the ball torn off the end, the splines ripped put, the box pulled loose from the frame, or the steering arm pulled off the steering knuckle but that weld WILL NOT FAIL. I have bet my life and others many times and all are still alive. We can sit back and let the goverment coddle us from the cradle to the grave or we can actually live life. I prefer the latter.

I better correct Baha to Baja or the Hispanic guys at my shop will "gringo" me without mercy.

Anyone have experience with the Toyota box and the Task Force series? I too do not like the look of the Saginaw outside of the frame, more than I do not like the idea of a Toy part on my truck. Thanks!

Dave, where did you find a U-joint with the Toyota spline? I had the rod shop I deal with check with Borgeson and the word they gave me was they didn't make a 29 spline 11/16 joint. Closest they had was a 30 spline 11/16 for a VW. By the way, I went to page 8 on your picture site and you made a really great mount bracket. I see you drilled and tapped the plate instead of using nuts. I did the same using 7/16 instead of the metric (which I didn't have).

I'm going with the Toyota system later this year.
You can find this "kit'd". Comes with brackets, new pitman, drag link, rag connetors universals..etc..Includes the 80-85 Toyota Land Cruiser box. Runs about $750..

Or is that cheatin?

Keith