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#23281 11/28/2003 5:44 PM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | I remember reading somewhere on the bolt but can't find it. Example: if the truck turns to the left when you apply brakes, is it because the left shoes are making contact before the rights? If so do you back off the lefts or tighten up the rights. Since I just replaced the W/C on my front left wheel it would seem that it might be grabbing too soon as compared to the front right. I think it would be good for me to go and adjust the rears while I'm at it. Finally when it comes to adjusting, do most of you guys tighten up the pads to the point of a good grag and then back off the pads until zero drag or just a little drag. what a drag this subject has become 
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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#23282 11/28/2003 6:21 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | It can also be caused by air in the lines.
54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
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#23283 11/28/2003 6:26 PM | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 504 Member | | Member Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 504 | When I am adjusting brakes, I like to cinch them up tight, then back off the adjuster until I get a little drag. On the front brakes, you may have to play with them a bit to eliminate the shoes pulling to one side or the other..
Bill M
53 GMC Hydra-Matic
Home Page
http://home.comcast.net/~bd97/index.html
When you argue with a fool, two fools are arguing..
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#23284 11/28/2003 8:21 PM | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 Bondo Artiste | | Bondo Artiste Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 | I did mine exactly the way "53 4 me" did and they are dead on.......
~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
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#23285 11/29/2003 4:17 AM | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 70 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 70 | My old man taught me to go till they stop turning and back them off evenly, he is 80 now and worked and taught auto for years I never had a problem doing it that way | | |
#23286 11/29/2003 4:33 AM | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 390 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 390 | The rule of thumb i was taught by an old timer to adjust them is by giveing them a spin.Ajust each wheel so that it will spin one revolution.Works great for me.
1942 1\2 Ton 1951 1\2 Ton 55 willys cj-5 1954 and 59 Cushman Scooter 1960 Biscayne Sedan 1965 G/10 panel van 1966 C/30 Grizzly Motorhome You know you're a 'Bolter when your daily driver is older than you are... My progress pics | | |
#23287 12/09/2003 5:09 PM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 68 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 68 | The method mentioned by SlowRider will generally work well, but use caution.... If your drum es even slightly out of round, one will drag a little sooner, but not truly be adjustled equally. This will cause the same pull you are trying to eliminate.
Heavy metal worker--up to 4-inch plate.... If you can't cut it, burn it!
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#23288 12/10/2003 5:51 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Was there brake fluid on the shoes? That will cause them to grab and means a new set of shoes for the front
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#23289 12/10/2003 6:51 PM | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 264 Member | | Member Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 264 | I would think that front brakes would have to be seriously out of adjustment before pulling would occur. Any time I have experienced pulling on any vehicle was due to a problem with a wheel cylinder (frozen or leaking). | | |
#23290 12/15/2003 7:03 AM | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 61 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 61 | You stated that you replaced the "left" front W/C, Yes it "working" better than the right, or seemingly "grabbing", because the left side is now more efficient in braking. When it comes to replacing W/C's, "ALWAYS" replace "BOTH" sides, so they are then equal in their function. If problems still persist after replacing "Both" sides, be sure to follow all the advice already given. | | |
#23291 12/16/2003 5:31 AM | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | Yes, there was a little fluid on the drum pads upon inspection. Since I'm going to be replacing the entire frontend assy (soon), I'll deal with the pulling for now, hoping it will go away when I change the entire front end assy.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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