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#232627 04/25/2007 12:36 AM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
I've got a question please. I have performed a search and could not find enough info that I feel comfortable making adjustments at this time. My 61 swb Apache has the original motor, tranny with "three on the tree", suspension and brakes. At this time everything works as designed,and she runs straight as an arrow down the road. In saving from investing alot of money in reworking everything at this time I was reading about adjusting the torsion bars to lower the front end some and purchase lowered coil springs for the rear. I know on the rear I can use my torch and carefully lower them but at the cost of a rougher ride. When you loosen the adjusting nut does it not leave a section on the adjusting bolt basically opem without a backup nut below the frame. any info would be greatly appreciated. By the way my wife purchased me all the shop manuals for 1960 & 1961 but it doed not have the info I am looking for.

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 46
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 46
Simply loosen the bolt that connects to the torsion bar. It won't move after you adjust it due to the tension placed on it. Remember to lift the front end to take as much tension off the bars as possible. Use a measuring tape to get both sides the same. Then you will probably have to re-align the front end.I adjusted mine about 2" lower and boy did it make a difference in looks as well as handling. My next project is to install a sway bar from a '87 Blazer and power steering. Good luck!

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
Thank you very much Tudorman. I just want to lower it about that far. I was just concerned and did not want to cause any safety issues. I can then get a pair of 2 inch lowering coil springs for the back. What year is your truck.

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 920
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 920
It will make it a little easier if you use kroil or pb blaster on the adjusting bolts.
Also if your front end parts (i.e. upper and lower ball joints, pitman arm, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering box, etc...) are old and worn, an alignment is arbitrary. In other words, you would have to replace the worn parts before an alignment would give you much benefit.
They are hard to find and expensive, but I think the torsion bar set-up is sweet and that's the way I'm going. Just my biased opinion.


1962 Fleetside 4spd 235 w/O.D. posi 3:90
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1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD 2.2 5sp
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
S
Apprentice
Apprentice
S Offline
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
Thanks for the info bigmacdaddy, I agree these bolts need wire brushed first then penetrating oil. The front end is amazingly tight, but I will have it checked after adjustment. Thanks for all the info. P.S. , Nice pics

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
I chickend out and removed the torsion bars and installed a later front end. Used air bags and
am able to get the desired results when wanted.
Would enjoy seeing pics of your truck as is. I have a 62, pics in gallery
Gary Zimmerman.

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 738
F
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
F Offline
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 738
Hey,

I have my front end lowered about 2 inches as well. All I did was crank the bolts a bit and eyeballed it for level, no alignment. I have been running it like this for almost 3 years without any problems. You can check out how it looks in my gallery posting, theres a link down below in my signature line. Good luck.


"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity." - George S. Patton

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