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#232262 04/19/2007 11:28 PM
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Hey Guys,

I've managed to snap three wheel studs off my 58's front wheel hub. Now I need to find some replacements.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a part number for the wheel studs?

Thanks!
Zeke

#232263 04/19/2007 11:44 PM
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I bought wheel studs & lug nuts & a bunch of other stuff from American Classic Truck. They were not expensive, but they have a $20.00 minimum. NAPA should carry them too I would think.Just tell them the year & make, shouldn't need a part number.


1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery
My Photobucket shots

The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873)

#232264 04/19/2007 11:45 PM
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Take your parts, or drive out a whole one, and go to your auto parts store. preferably a good one that has a paper catalog with pictures, not one relies on a computer for everything.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#232265 04/19/2007 11:48 PM
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Ezekiel
Look your truck up here
http://www.rockauto.com/

there are quite a few part numbers listed for your year, along with sizes.
Good luck
DS

#232266 04/20/2007 12:09 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
D Sinclair,
wow, what a great link. I have been trying for ages to get some new studs for the back of my 1 Ton. Thank you for that info!


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#232267 04/20/2007 12:51 AM
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Grigg,
I have been trying to convince four of my lug bolts out, but they just aren't budging. Any suggestions?

thanks
Pete

#232268 04/20/2007 1:41 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Pete,

Search on "studs" or "lugs" and you will find a few suggestions. I pressed mine out of the rear plate (in place) using a ball joint removal tool. It is like a big C-clamp. Worked like a charm for removal and installation.

Tim

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

Auto Zone or Advance Auto might lend out such a tool.

#232269 04/20/2007 1:56 AM
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I used the exact same tool as Tim to press out the rear ones in place. Worked great.

However it didn't work on the fronts. I was afraid the ball joint tool would break if I put any more torque to it (had a breaker bar on it with the front hub off the vehicle).

Most places say smack 'em with a big hammer. Yeah I used to do that when I worked on others cars at a shop. NOT ON MY TRUCK.

Take the front hub off and use a real press!

Phil

#232270 04/20/2007 3:03 AM
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I agree, a press works great.
While you are at it, read the manual on how they are supposed to be removed.
If I remember correctly some wheel studs are crimped, peened, or riveted in place, what ever you want to call it. For those that are the manual may specify some special way to remove them. If not then something that just slips around the head of the bolt / stud, like a socket, will support the hub while you press the bolt out, without damaging the hub even if lots of pressure is needed.
And if that won't work. Drill about 2/3 the diameter of the nominal size of the bolt from the head side, only about as deep as the hub is thick plus the head height. In other words, almost through to the other side. Then press or drive out, the hole will relieve the pressure.
If you do try and drive them out you will need a good "anvil" to back it up, the concrete floor works if you have nothing else. You can pound on the studs all day on a wooden bench and get no where.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
#232271 04/20/2007 3:14 AM
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There is a tool out that is sort-of like a long nut that pulls the stud in wiht the threads. It's extra long for maximum thread engagement so as not the streatch the threads or break the stud. the kit also comes with a thrust washer and a spacer to keep from damaging the hub surface. I have a set of these, got them from Mac tools. I have seen a smaller set (7/16,1/2, 12x1.5,12x1.5) for about $40 at Sears. These work very well, and there's no need to remove the hub/axle from the vehicle. Uses an 1 1/8" socket to drive the hex on it.


Bill Burmeister
#232272 04/20/2007 5:45 AM
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I'll be using the big hammer and punch method because these studs are sheered off flush to the hub.

Thanks for the info guys. Now to go and use it!

Zeke

#232273 04/20/2007 2:04 PM
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I just heated the flange a little bit and put the nut back on(i know you can't) and beat them out with a hammer. got replacemets from NAPA

Never removed them from the dif.

#232274 04/20/2007 3:30 PM
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Normally studs do come out nicely with a nut on the end and a big hammer. In your case, because they are sheared off right at the hub, you may be better off doing some drilling first. If it starts to mush from pounding, the situation will just get more complicated.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#232275 04/21/2007 1:52 AM
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I used an air hammer. It's a good one from Snap-on. Don't know if a HFT one would work as well but I use the air hammer to drive out all kinds of things. Didn't work on those king pins though. My ears are still ringing from using the BFH!

Here are some highly technical photographs:
http://picasaweb.google.com/orchidskip/DonTForceIt?authkey=0YGzJdcyZPQ

#232276 04/23/2007 1:37 PM
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The air hammer is a great idea!
It appeals to my lazy side grin

Thanks Guys!

#232277 04/23/2007 1:52 PM
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Canadian Tire has wheel studs and if you can bring a sample. If they're stubborn drilling a hole first like Truckernix said can help. Even a little warming would'nt hurt. Be careful not to bend the flange. Good luck.

Curt B.


1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod
You Tube
#232278 04/23/2007 7:29 PM
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i just drive them back out, might need a little heat


1949 Chevy 3600 Flatbed all orginal
1964 gmc 4000
1973 gmc 6000
2005 chevy duramax 4x4
1994 chevy 1500
Trucks are GM and Tractors are Orange

"I don't measure a man's success by how high he climbs but how high he bounces when he hits bottom." - General George S. Patton

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