Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 | Hey Guys,
I've managed to snap three wheel studs off my 58's front wheel hub. Now I need to find some replacements.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a part number for the wheel studs?
Thanks! Zeke | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 443 | I bought wheel studs & lug nuts & a bunch of other stuff from American Classic Truck. They were not expensive, but they have a $20.00 minimum. NAPA should carry them too I would think.Just tell them the year & make, shouldn't need a part number. 1957 Chevrolet 1/2-ton Stepside LB in the Gallery My Photobucket shots The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stuart Mill (1806 - 1873) | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Take your parts, or drive out a whole one, and go to your auto parts store. preferably a good one that has a paper catalog with pictures, not one relies on a computer for everything.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 85 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 85 | Ezekiel Look your truck up here http://www.rockauto.com/ there are quite a few part numbers listed for your year, along with sizes. Good luck DS | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | D Sinclair, wow, what a great link. I have been trying for ages to get some new studs for the back of my 1 Ton. Thank you for that info! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 15 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 15 | Grigg, I have been trying to convince four of my lug bolts out, but they just aren't budging. Any suggestions?
thanks Pete | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Pete, Search on "studs" or "lugs" and you will find a few suggestions. I pressed mine out of the rear plate (in place) using a ball joint removal tool. It is like a big C-clamp. Worked like a charm for removal and installation. Tim http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335 Auto Zone or Advance Auto might lend out such a tool. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 18 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 18 | I used the exact same tool as Tim to press out the rear ones in place. Worked great.
However it didn't work on the fronts. I was afraid the ball joint tool would break if I put any more torque to it (had a breaker bar on it with the front hub off the vehicle).
Most places say smack 'em with a big hammer. Yeah I used to do that when I worked on others cars at a shop. NOT ON MY TRUCK.
Take the front hub off and use a real press!
Phil | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I agree, a press works great. While you are at it, read the manual on how they are supposed to be removed. If I remember correctly some wheel studs are crimped, peened, or riveted in place, what ever you want to call it. For those that are the manual may specify some special way to remove them. If not then something that just slips around the head of the bolt / stud, like a socket, will support the hub while you press the bolt out, without damaging the hub even if lots of pressure is needed. And if that won't work. Drill about 2/3 the diameter of the nominal size of the bolt from the head side, only about as deep as the hub is thick plus the head height. In other words, almost through to the other side. Then press or drive out, the hole will relieve the pressure. If you do try and drive them out you will need a good "anvil" to back it up, the concrete floor works if you have nothing else. You can pound on the studs all day on a wooden bench and get no where.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | There is a tool out that is sort-of like a long nut that pulls the stud in wiht the threads. It's extra long for maximum thread engagement so as not the streatch the threads or break the stud. the kit also comes with a thrust washer and a spacer to keep from damaging the hub surface. I have a set of these, got them from Mac tools. I have seen a smaller set (7/16,1/2, 12x1.5,12x1.5) for about $40 at Sears. These work very well, and there's no need to remove the hub/axle from the vehicle. Uses an 1 1/8" socket to drive the hex on it.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 | I'll be using the big hammer and punch method because these studs are sheered off flush to the hub.
Thanks for the info guys. Now to go and use it!
Zeke | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | I just heated the flange a little bit and put the nut back on(i know you can't) and beat them out with a hammer. got replacemets from NAPA
Never removed them from the dif. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Normally studs do come out nicely with a nut on the end and a big hammer. In your case, because they are sheared off right at the hub, you may be better off doing some drilling first. If it starts to mush from pounding, the situation will just get more complicated. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | I used an air hammer. It's a good one from Snap-on. Don't know if a HFT one would work as well but I use the air hammer to drive out all kinds of things. Didn't work on those king pins though. My ears are still ringing from using the BFH! Here are some highly technical photographs: http://picasaweb.google.com/orchidskip/DonTForceIt?authkey=0YGzJdcyZPQ | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 144 | The air hammer is a great idea! It appeals to my lazy side Thanks Guys! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | Canadian Tire has wheel studs and if you can bring a sample. If they're stubborn drilling a hole first like Truckernix said can help. Even a little warming would'nt hurt. Be careful not to bend the flange. Good luck.
Curt B.
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 513 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 513 | i just drive them back out, might need a little heat 1949 Chevy 3600 Flatbed all orginal 1964 gmc 4000 1973 gmc 6000 2005 chevy duramax 4x4 1994 chevy 1500 Trucks are GM and Tractors are Orange "I don't measure a man's success by how high he climbs but how high he bounces when he hits bottom." - General George S. Patton | | |
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