The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Vaccuum Advance/E-Brake install/Towing Capacity 58 1/2t

I couldn't get my truck properly tuned so I took it to a shop. He determined the vaccuum advance is bust and all he could find is a 62. Will that work?

I finally got a replacement e-brake front to install. What's the procedure in doing that?

I'm about to purchase a 58 Mercury travel trailer and am wondering what my towing capacity is. I'm off to Ellensburg, WA tomorrow so if ya see my blue truck, wave.

I might know the procedue, but I'm not too sure what E-brake part you are talking about. Can you post a pic?

This is the cable that goes from the front to the point where it splits towards the back. One end of the cable has a long screw-type thing and the other has a knob on the end of the cable. I think the screw-type end goes in the back end (I need to crawl underneath). Do you start at the front or the back with the cable replacement?

i would not only be concerned with the towing capacity but more concerned with the stopping power. just a thought. Ron

attach the cable front first, but start where it goes thru a roller on the frame near the mstr cyl [will prolly need repair/replace] - the screw type thing end is the adjuster/attachment to the lever that the individual cables attach to pic here , roller is where the front cable jogs over

yes, make sure the trailer has brakes if it's any real size, and with the 235, avoid the Rockies

Bill

Thanks red58!

I knew you'd know. Appreciated.

My little truck did min. 40mph through the steep Snoqualmie pass yesterday and I made it back to Vancouver in the day. I'm impressed. I ended up not buying the trailer as it "was not as described" - there's "trailer trash" and then there's "trash".

Beautiful trip - saw elk, fox, deer, eagles, Ponderosa Pine...worth the drive.

I just did that job. Pretty straight forward. I would bet that you want to change the rear cables out as well, mine were locked up.

Click to enlarge.

This is the front on the frame. Once you get it out, there’s a washer blocking a slot in the bracket that will allow the ball to come out. Taking the front one out, I loosened it at the center where they all tie first, then took the ball out at the front and pulled it through the frame.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...0cable/th_atfrontbysteeringbox.jpg[/img]

This is the pulley, roughly under the driver seat. I just loosened the nut and kinda pried the cable out of there.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...e%20cable/th_pully-underdriver.jpg[/img]

All of them tie here. Just rip ‘em loose.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...brake%20cable/th_italltieshere.jpg[/img]

If you’re going to do the back ones the brakes need to come off. Get a tool, $8.00 and way better than the old screw driver routine.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...cy%20brake%20cable/th_getatool.jpg[/img]

After the brakes are off, pull this little e-clip off and they’re ready – close anyway

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...0cable/th_afterbrakespulleclip.jpg[/img]

Right or wrong, I just busted these legs off that hold the rear cable into the back plate of the hub. If you do it that way, make sure you bust them off as far back as possible.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/...0brake%20cable/th_ibustedemoff.jpg[/img]

Like I said, I think it’s a pretty straight forward job.

Avette4me, thanks for those great pics. I got under the truck today and pulled out the old E-brake and replaced it. Your pics convinced me to just get it done. There was one odd piece attached to the e-brake that I can't figure out what it is.

picture

that's a style of tensioner that was commonly used "back in the day" to take up slack in too long cables, or ones that stretched

Bill

Ok, now that makes sense. I wasn't sure if it was to keep the cable off the exhaust or shorten the cable but the new cable fit right without this thing. I have, maybe, 1/4" movement up or down when the cable is not "engaged" and hill tests worked perfect.

Some kid with a skateboard jumped on the truck while my nose was an inch from the exhaust. My "GET OFF THE TRUCK!" definitely scared him as I saw his shoes run real fast away.

Quick trick to removing the cables from the brake backing plates is to use a 1/2" Wrench, slide the box end over the cable-will compress the 3 fingers allowing cable to slide out the hole without breaking the 3 fingers--works slick!