The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Removing Leaf Springs on a 1948 1/2 ton?

Hello Bolters!

I need a little advice on removing the front leaf springs from my '48 1/2 ton. The manual says to begin by raising the truck with a chain hoist. That sounds like an expensive 'tool'. Is there any other way to proceed with this project? I have never tackled springs before so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hope I am not biting off more than I can chew on this repair. I can't imagine how much fun it would be to load my truck on a tow vehicle after the front axel has been removed so a mechanic can finish my good intentions.

Thanks!
littlebuddie

Jack it up and rest it on jack stands.

just a word of caution here littlebuddy. ANY time you are working with any kind of springs, shocks/struts always be safety consious OF WHAT COULD HAPPEN. Please please be safe. We want you around here a long time.

Hi Cletis,
I was hoping someone would say that! I'm a 125lb female-bolter, so I need to ask a lot of questions before I am compelled to place myself in a tricky situation. Now all I have to do is locate a good spring rebuilder in Oregon. Thanks, all suggestions are graciously accepted,
littlebuddie

As cletis said, jack the truck up so the weight it off the wheels and rest the frame on jackstands.

The rest of it should be pretty basic, it all just unbolts.

I agree with Achipmunk on the springs/struts...but I wouldn't worry about a leaf spring pack flying through a wall.

Good Luck.

Thankyou Achipmunk,
So far so good but as you say, you can never be too careful. Thank's for the good words of advice!
littlebuddie

Here are some hints to make the job as simple as possible. If you are only replacing the springs then you don't want the axel to move out of place in a way that creates extra work. First jack up the front and place the frame on jackstands. At this point I like to try and rock the vehicle to make sure it is very stable. Now, using a floor jack, put very light pressure on one side to relieve the tension on the spring bushings. Next, remove the pin at the end with the shackles. This method prevents the axel from swinging into a new position on the shackles. After undoing both ends of the spring, support the axle so you can proceed on the other side. It is helpful to limit the amount that the axel drops away on the first side. If it is lowered on the one side and produces a significant cross angle it will make the second side more difficult to deal with.

Hey littlebudnic, you are in luck. I just removed mine the other day and I have a resource in your area.
First I chocked the rear wheels. Then I put on a pair of nitrile gloves and safety glasses. Then I used a 20 ton air over hydraulic jack that I purchased from Harbor Freight Tools. I use a large section of thick walled five inch square tubing to span between the frame rails just behind the front bumper. With the jack centered on this I can lift the whole truck at once. Then place heavy duty jack stands under the tubing. Chock front wheels so your axle won't roll after removing springs. Spray some WD40 on the U-bolt nuts and use a large breaker bar to remove. I needed to slide a pipe over the breaker bar to extend its length for more leverage. It takes a mighty effort to break those nuts loose. I then let the axle drop below the level of the leafs. I then lowered the truck to take the pressure off the shackles so they can be removed. The front shackle bolts are like a big screw. The rears and big bolts. Be careful removing the leafs. They are very heavy and if they slide down on your hand you will get mashed.

Once removed call Benz Spring in Oregon. Ask for Jim and tell him I sent you. After he gets done laughing he'll take good care of you. They manufacture springs rather than order from a manufacturer and then send to you. Even with shipping to Southern California they offered a much better price than any other spring shop I contacted. Be sure to ask for friction pads. They don't cost extra and offer some squeak suppression. That is unless you like those nostalgic rattles and squeaks!!!

Not technically hard but physically challenging. Be careful, take your time and let us know if you have any other questions.

http://www.benzspring.com/

Thankyou Colin, truckernix, orchidskip, cletis, and truckernix for your replies. I really love this website, there's no finer group of people on the Web than what Stovebolt offers here! I always feel as though I have a team working with me when ever I need a little help. Bless us all.
I think I can do this, especially since I have all of your experience guiding me. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks orchidskip for the tip on Benz Spring, I'll give them a call.
littlebuddie

If you are near Portland then visit the Benz Spring shop. It is a good, old school place. You will never forget it.

Hi 4ontheFloor,
I am about 80 miles away from Portland but it sounds like visiting Benz Spring Shop is well worth the trip!
Thanks!
littlebuddie

I replaced all four springs on my truck a few years ago, Littlebuddie. Here's the step-by-step story (the actual springwork starts about halfway down the page).

And More Frame Work

I just got off of the phone from ordering new front springs from Benz Spring Co. Very reasonable prices. Jim said not to bother rebuilding the old ones, because 60 year old springs are too old to be dependable. I have a question out of pure ignorance, here goes......... Is it not feasible to leave the axle on the floor? I mean, remove the u-bolts and then raise the rest of the truck for disengaging the pivot and shackle bolts? You can tell I have never done this before can't you.

LAROKE, your tutorial with BillyBob is great! I feel better able to do this job with all of the input and suggestions you all have given me. New springs won't be here until the middle of next week so I have lots of time to ponder the removal of the old springs,

Cheers,
littlebuddie

littlebuddie,

In regards to your 'is it feasible' question. The trick is to raise the truck and put it on jack stands (under the frame), but only take it up far enough to have the front wheels off the ground several inches. You then take your floor jack, put it under the center of the axle and raise that...remove the u-bolts, then lower it the few inches back onto the wheels.

The springs are now dangling and can be easily removed. Reverse the procedure, and viola...take a spin.

Be sure to wire brush the threaded portion of the u-bolts and coat them with Never-Seize before you remove them...those fine threads can self destruct with a long cheater bar oinking on them.

Stuart

Lilbud,
I've seen this guy automarc around here and he's a much better gunslinger than I am. I see in Larry's pix his rear springs mount under the rear end so that would be a differnt horse than mine which ride on top. But if you are talking front straight axle then I left my front wheels on the ground, loosed the U-bolts, raised up Mr. Truck such that the springs separated from the axle, then gently lowered the truck such that the springs came in contact with the axle enough to take pressure off the shackle pins. They came out easy and the springs stayed put in their perches until I was ready to lift them off. Heavy buggers. My fronts had 7 leafs. But that's nothing. The rears had 14!!!! I need to go to the chiropractor now!!!!

And do be careful. Those things are heavy. Once they start to come down you cannot stop them unless you are...The Incredible Hulk. They Will smash your hand between spring and whatever they land on!!!!

Thankyou atomarc and orchidskip, all suggestions are appreciated and carefully approached so that there shall be no liability placed upon the Suggesters by virtue of the wrong-doing by the Suggested To, namely myself, littlebuddie.
I am really getting the idea now about how this should work. Thank you SO MUCH!

If you are putting on new springs it is best to replace one at a time. Then the axle doesn,t get out of place. You will probably want to get new U-bolts. The old ones are generally rusted & weakened. You will need a shackle, pin, & bushing set. Those parts are readily available from all the specialty suppliers.

That was pretty painless thanks to everyone's help. I was afraid of the unknown on this repair so I was a bit hesitant about starting. I hope the new springs go back as easily as the old ones came out.Thanks for your advice Wrenchbender, I will get new u-bolts and the new springs have new bushings installed. Benz Spring Co. sells a complete kit with all of the parts to refurbish a new spring setup.
Thank You Everyone For Your Invaluable Help And Support!

littlebuddie

You usually have to clean the hole in the axle out. Rust & scale build up in them. The head of the center bolt must go allthe way in.