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#225714 01/25/2007 3:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
P
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I am about to buy my first truck. Since I am not a mechanic, this truck seems to be exactly what I am looking for. I am looking for asisstance in pricing. Here are the details: Its a 57 3100 short bed, 6 cyl, with 70000 orig miles on it, 3speed on floor. Family owned since new. Reason they sell is because grandson is not interested. Apparently, mechanically its 100% restored. Brakes, Engine&new Battery, Clutch etc was done 5 years ago, it was stored in a garage since then, and started frequently. Not more then 15 miles on the engine since it was rebuilt. Original interieur, original paint, with some surface rust, but nothing major, no holes. No dents. Wood bed needs to be done, gate is availiable but not attached. Listing price is 7500.00, but I think its negotiable a bit. I am trying to figure out a fair price for both parties, what do you think? Thank you all for your guidance

Joined: Feb 2002
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F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
welcome to the shop Pete - robin58 has the right idea, look around and compare ... check out the gallery here to for visual reference

7500 for any truck that needs a total cosmetic resto [body, interior, wood] sounds pretty spendy to me, and will be worth it's weight in gold by the time you finish it .... and 57 didn't have a floor shift 3 speed, so if it's not actually a 4 speed, it's been modified there

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Jan 2005
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F
Extreme Gabster
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Joined: Jan 2005
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I lean in red58's direction on this one.

If it's only got 70,000 original miles on it, why did it have to be 100% mechanically restored?

$7500 is what i'd expect to pay for a '57 that is pretty much finished.. like the one robin58 linked to.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
Joined: Nov 2006
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5
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 180
I would tend to disagree with checking ebay for one reason. I do believe the price is a lot of times skewed a little bit due to the fact that there are factors involved in any auction such as the "I take it personally if I am outbid" factor, and some people pay way more than they would otherwise just due to the fact that they cant stand the thought of someone else outdoing them. The way you describe the truck to me seems like it needs the bed boards replaced, the tailgate reinstalled, which, if its not on the truck, where is it? and was it stored carefully? So there may or may not need to be some repair work done to the tailgate, And the whole deal about how many miles are on the engine since it was rebuilt thing, I dont know how much of that to believe unless they have receipts when it was done and they can prove that, it really has no effect on the truck. More questions to ask yourself, the interior is original, is it in nice shape? How much work will it require to get it in respectable conditon, or at least a condition that you are ok with. As far as the body goes, it sounds like it is real solid, which is a plus, but it does need repainted. From the sounds of things, it is a real good find, and one worth picking up, I would probably not pay more than $5000 personally, based on the information you provided.


1950 Chevy 3100 5 window "in progress"
1967 Chevelle 300
Joined: Jan 2005
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F
Extreme Gabster
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I don't disagree that there is an element of 'I won't be outbid' on eBay auctions.. but that doesn't turn a $3000 truck into a $7500 truck.

For the most part, and with limited exception, people buying on eBay aren't there to pay top dollar for anything.

The exception would be in instances where people are shopping for items that are rare, hard to find, or only occasionally pop up on eBay and are difficult if not impossible to source locally.

A 57 1/2 ton pickup is not such an item.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
Joined: Dec 2006
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W
Shop Shark
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Posts: 1,464
Welcome to the 'bolt! It's cool you're looking for your first truck but be aware (since you mention you're not a mechanic) that any mechanical work, parts, body work, paint, upholstery that you want done is going to cost you plenty of $$$ above the purchase price. Also, make sure that whatever you decide to buy has a good title. I recommend checking with your local DMV to find out exactly what paperwork you need to register the truck once you get it and get that in hand before you write a check. I had a bad experience awhile back on a vehicle I bought for a project for my son, the registered owner had died - what a hassle, I never could get it regestered, sold it for parts. Happy Hunting!!

Joined: Jun 2004
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
I,m with Waldo. If you are not a mechanic or don,t sleep with one, be very careful. If you have to have a lot work done it can turn into an expensive nightmare. Get someone to look it over good for you. Sometimes a local fellow stovebolter will help out. If you want to use it pretty much like it is it wouldn,t be too bad of a buy if you can negotiate it down a bit. It,s hard to find something solid for less than 5-6 grand. If you are going into a full restoration I would find one already done. Another thought on the title make shure the numbers on the truck match the title.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 103
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 103
Do a Google search for The Gold Book from Manheim auctions. They have an online site that gives you a good idea of "values". Choose Price Guide, Make, Year, and model to get a good idea of Fair (3), Good (2), or Excellent (1) evaluations. Pretty reliable and respected as the outfit has been around for more than 40 years. Besr Regards, BW

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
All you can do is haggle. If you both can come to an agreement, the price is fair. Some people would rather see it go to someone who "cares" rather than fetch a premium price for it,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
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Glad that you have had the sense to contact the board for an unbiased view from people who are well experienced in Trucks!!! present company excluded.
The previous advice is all that you need.
Remember that 1) YOU DON'T HAVE to buy it though you feel its Just the Buisness.
2) You have enough sense to admit your lack of knowledge so as has been said previously either, take a professionally qualified mechanic who will give you an unbiased opinion - pay the guy and act on his advice OR
Ask the seller, :rolleyes: if you can have it examined at a garage/shop where you trust the people who work there and get a examination/report done.
If there are problems either negotiate a reduction to cover the costs of remedials or
WALK AWAY - forget emotions they don't help if it all goes west,know its hard but anyone can buy a dud, takes no skill as we have all learn't in the past! Lols.
Hope it works out, safe cruisin, Chris.

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P
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Posts: 2
Thank you all for your great help and valuable feedback. I really appreciate it. Just so you know, today I went looking at the truck. Its actually a 3200. 3 speed.Bottom of the doors have rust holes, and so do the bottom of front and back fenders. Front window needs to be replaced. Needs new tires & new battery & new upholstery. Needs new bed & tailgate. Carburator is leaking gasoline. Looks like everything is original. Here are the things that are new: Engine(overhauled) & hoses, clutch, shocks, brake shoes,cylinders,hoses,lines. The fact that its a 3200 puts me down a bit, I was hoping to find a 3100, maybe even with a big rear window. I think I will bail out on this one, but thank you all for your help!!!!

Joined: Jul 2006
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If you can find a solid 1/2 ton truck for 4 or 5 thousand, you can bet if you want it back to near original condition that you will put another 5,000 into it. (assuming that you do most of the work, i.e. new bumpers, chrome, bedwood, paint job, mechanical work like master cylinder, wheel cyl., shoes, fuel pump, gauges, etc.) I've been doing this for years on originals and street rods and the cost can go up, but its fun to do.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

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