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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
L
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
L Offline
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
I am about to change out the rear main seal on my 215. I have read the tech tip on this website regarding this replacement and it suggests a way to 'sneak' the upper seal into place. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rearseal.htm

However, another website, http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/bobadler-1.htm says this about the proceedure:
"........Anyone attempting to "sneak" in a new seal without dropping the crankshaft should be aware that the new seal will leak if not compressed with a wood dowel. Period flat rate books show how this shortcut is done, but this method is an extremely bogus excuse for restoration. Once the crankshaft is lowered even slightly, the front seal, if not also renewed, will start leaking." It also states that a neoprene seal will not be effective in this renewel. So, I would like to know what anyone else out there has to say about this conflict of information.
Thanks!
littlebuddie


1948 AD Pickup
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
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littlebuddie,

{A revised post} I read both articles you linked. They are basically the same, and right on in my estimate.

I have done this "in situ" repair several times, just as outlined in the Bolt tech tip. I have NEVER had a leak develop in the timing cover seal. The repair of the rear main has always been successful.

I used a Chinese Finger Trap to pull the upper seal through the channel after pulling the main bearing caps and dropping the crank slightly, then finished the procedure as it is outlined in the tech tip.


Stuart

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 132
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 132
I have done several of these on Bolts and F&&&s. One step I feel is missing from the tech tips is this: remove the four bolts holding the trans to the clutch housing and move it back far enough to clear trans front bearing retainer from the clutch housing. That will let the crank drop a lot more. With out this step the crank can only drop as far as the clearance between the pilot bushing and main drive gear end. Once it is down, use a small dowel and hammer taps to start the old seal out. Then pull it with a pair of pliers.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
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Just wanted to say I did one on a 1950 216engine and it never leaked. I use the chinese finger gizmo. I still have it and have not used it since! But it worked real good. OOPS, make that twice I have done it. (without unbolting the tranny.)


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Joined: Jun 2006
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L
Shop Shark
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Hi, thanks for your suggestions! I want to say, why remove the crank if you don't have to? But I do like to ask questions anyway. I replaced only the bottom seal about 20 years ago but now that it is leaking again, I need to do the top seal as well this time around. So since I am doing the motor mounts in the interim, I will ponder the approach to the seal renewel and I most certainly appreciate all of the input from members of the forum!
Regards and Thanks!

P.S. Where can I get one of those finger gizmos?


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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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littlebuddie,


This is what the seal installer looks like!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...yZ43998QQihZ016QQitemZ260014882442QQrdZ1


Stuart

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Posts: 272
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Hi atomarc,
Oh yeah, that is like a sneaky pete but it looks like a better version of it. Thanks for the link!


1948 AD Pickup
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
L
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 272
By the way KENC, thanks for the 'heads up' regarding
moving the clutch housing back far enough to clear trans front bearing retainer. Thankyou everyone for your suggestions. I love this place!


1948 AD Pickup

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