The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Carb/Fuel question

Here's the problem - when cold, the only way to get the engine to turn over is to pour gas directly into the carb. The engine starts & runs fine when warm. It is the stock 235 engine with a single Rochester 'B'. Any ideas why? Thanks for the help!!!

If 'turn over' means 'start', then you need to rebuild the carb paying special attention to the acc. pump. Or maybe you let it sit too long & the gas disappears from the carb bowl. Doug

When you are trying to start it does fuel pump into the carb? The first thing I would do is take off the air cleaner and have someone watch the carb while trying to start it, they can tell you if fuel is being delivered. Sounds like maybe a choke issue? If it runs once it is started then fuel is beng delivered. Makes me wonder if your carb needs adjusting? I wish I could help more. At least this post will go back to the top now

Kyle

The fuel check is even easier. Look down into the carb and pump the throttle. You should see a stream of gas when you pump the throttle. I suspect the accelerator pump is worn, which produces the stream of fuel. Without the pump, the only fuel that flows is when the engine is running.

Fuel is being delivered and once started the truck runs fine. Only have the problem when engine is cold. What from you are saying, sounds like an accelerator pump issue. Does that mean rebuilding the carb?

Sounds like you need to repair and adjust the choke,
Scott

If there is no fuel squirting in like Fred T posted than the carb will need o-haul. This is a simple carb. & is acually fun to o-haul.

Clifford, Just a thought! After recently rebuilding my Rochester (carb dip and kit) and reinstall I noticed that I had a real weak stream from the accelerator pump and the PO had used the wrong gasket between the carb base and the insulator block. Vacuum port was blocked. Used correct gasket with vac port but still had a weak stream from accel pump. Turns out that overseas kit assemblers have a habit of putting the wrong pumps in the kits. NOT AN UNCOMMON PROBLEM!

What I'm trying to say is after you get your new pump lubed and installed....pour in some gas, work the pump and verify that it pumps a steady stream up the tube. May save you some frustration and wear and tear on your carb.
Hope this helps someone avoid my little problem.

BTW....nice to see another nice 54!

look for ball check valve in bottom of acc pump.

If it were accelerator pump related, wouldn't it effect the running of the truck all the time. This is a cold start issue...I think I would agree with 48bigtrucks and focus on the choke.


Stuart

I know I might just insult you but do you know how to properly opperate a choke? If you do and the choke cable is hooked up correctly, then you have a carburator problem.
Before you o/h the carb. Remove the air cleaner, open the choke, look down the carb. with a flash light. While you look, have some one step on the gas pedal. Do you see a stream of fuel comming out a small hole and squirting down into the carb? If not you could have a bad accelorator pump or possible a leaking fuel bowl. Usualy a carb. o/h will take care of this. If you choose to do it yourself, go buy a kit first. Now go get one of your big zip lock baggies and open the kit. Remove the instructions for the kit and open them up to the exploded view. Now 1 piece at a time remove the parts from the kit and find them on the exploded view, look up thier names and see where they go in the carb. take each part and place it into the baggie and go to the next part find it read about it and put it in the baggie. After you do this go back and read the info on the sheet. Follow each step in order. Then remove your carb. and start dissasembly. Use a large muffin pan to keep you parts seperated. If you don't have a vat to clean your carb. just use the spray can with the nozzle and make sure you can blow through every hole in the carb and it sprays out some where else. Use compressed air to follow up and clear carb. cleaner from all holes. Remember on disassiembly that some parts are spring loaded and may go flying across the room on removal so remove all parts slowly. Also when you turn parts over to look inside do so over the top a bench or inside a box and look as you turn it over. There are loose check balls inside a carburator that will fall out. Good luck.
This is (on a small carburator) a 1 hour job for the pro. a 2 hour job for a novice, and a 4 hour job for a first timer.
Note also that you should have gaskets and parts left over from the kit.

The choke is most important.My restored 216 all origional must have the choke out about 1/4 to 1/2 in to start.According to owners manual.Floods eazy.Tempermental??? Yea, like my wife. And by the way if I want her to know that, I'll tell her myself.

I'll trade ya my legal problems for your carb problems!