The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk what trailer hitch for stovebolt

OK guys- you convinced me. A stovebolt can pull a boat and trailer very well. Now, anybody got an idea of who sells an aftermarket trailer hitch that will fit a '54 stovebolt. I'm complicated by the fact that I carry my spere tire under the bed. Any idea's?

Try a Reese Hitch # 88001 from Auto Zone. I found the info on the internet and haven't checked it out yet. I think it is a class 3 hitch.

A machine shop or sheet metal shop can fabricate one for you if you can't find one to fit. I got a 2" receiver tube and had my dad (retired sheet metal worker) build one for my '55.

I have one behind my garage off my 62, about 32 inches wide with a two inch receiver that I have been trying to give away but would cost too much to ship you.

What I'm planning on doing is measuring the width of the frame where I plan to mount it (hopefully using the bumper mount bolts), the distance to the bumper and the height of the bumper relative to the mount points. Then I'll draw a diagram with measurements.

Then I'll go to a junk yard and start looking under the trucks, SUVs and vans 'cause lots of them that have nice trailer hitches that are mostly hidden behind the bumper that could work for you, depending on how you plan on mounting it. When you take the hitch, make sure and get the plug and wires for the trailer lights/brakes.

Even if you don't pick up your trailer hitch from the junk yard, it'll be worth your while to have a look at severl different designs either at the junk yard or in the parking lot and traffic before you make a decision on the design.

Personally, I like the ones where most of the hitch is hidden and only the 2" square receiver and brakelight plug are visible.

As far as what size/class hitch you need, that depends on the weight of what you plan on towing and the tounge weight. Try googling 'trailer hitch class.' Sounds to me like you'll need a class III or IV.

If you can't find just the hitch you want over the counter or under a wreck, a trailer place nearby whereever you are can make a custom hitch to your specs pretty easily. For example, U-Haul makes custom hitches as do others.

I suppose another option, if you have a 55 + is reinforce the bumper and put the ball in the license plate cutout/dip/indentation in the bumper.

This on a 3104
there is a 2'' receiver tube and a 2'' insert tube, one fits inside the other.
I made mine from 2'' box (insert - trailer material). I used two 1/4'' plates 3''x 8'' frame mounts to the inside of the stock frame right at the very end of the stock frame channels. Drilled two 1/2'' holes in each of the 3x8 plates, as the bumpers bolts fit and hold the plates to the truck. Welded two nuts to the front 1/2'' bolt bumper holes on the 3x8'' plate. Cut and welded a 2'' insert tube that fits across (fits between the two 3x8 plates and goes straight across, side to side), so the nuts are now (hidden) inside the tube ends & welded to the 3x8'' plates. The other two 1/2'' 3x8 plate holes are exposed & bolted thru the frame. Two 2'' insert tubes were cut to make a V shape from almost the frame 3x6'' plate, 2'' tube V 'ed down to the 2'' receiver hitch tube (about 8-10'' long) - centered. The 2'' receiver hitch fits just below the stock 3100 bumper so only the receiver square is visible. Another 1/4''thick 6x10'' plate is welded to the bottom of the 2'' receiver tube hitch as well as the two V tubes, thus creating a very stout welded connection. The 6x10 plate has two 3/4'' holes for the safety chain attachment..
Don't forget to pre-drill your receiver hitch pin hole before welding that tube.
oh yeah class of hitch . . . . low

this puppy ain't going to break.

mine is a Draw-Tite.. 5K capacity without weight distribution bars...