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#207511 05/10/2006 3:12 AM
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New Guy
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Ok guys so I finally got the truck, and unfortunately I'm swamped with finals and I'm leaving for a competition in Detroit this week, so I won't havea whole lot of time to work on her, but when I get back I wanna see if I an't get the engine running. I'm trying to get a list of parts and stuff I'll need and I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions? so far I got...

large breaker bar to make sure she'll turn freely, plugs, wires, battery, oil, coolant, drain gas tank, air filter, and some carb cleaner, that doesn't work I'll move onto a rebuild kit, etc; any suggestion are greatly appreciated. Thanks


you know your a gearhead when you pick up food to eat at the shop after wrenching all day, and you reasoning for not washing your hands is a little grease makes all food taste better
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Shop Shark
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Try to turn her by hand first, with the sparkplugs removed, if you have to use the bar then forget it, letting her run that way is the best setup for a rebuilt engine.
Now all we want to know, what is it and why don't you post some pictures?

Good luck

Richard

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woah, so your saying you should be able to turn the motor over by hands?, just grab the pulley or fan and spin?

And it's a 1949 GMC pickup, 3/4 ton, long bed, and no pics yet, been too busy working, and trying to get her cleaned up and running hopefully by the end of the summer, but that isn't happening if I don't get on that engine. Steerings working, brake parts on the way, soon enough


you know your a gearhead when you pick up food to eat at the shop after wrenching all day, and you reasoning for not washing your hands is a little grease makes all food taste better
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'Bolter
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If you are going out of town for a week or so, Spray a whole can of WD-40 down the carb and into the spark plug holes until you get back. Then pull all the plugs and work the engine over by hand (or breaker bar) until you can turn it completely over several revolutions. If you can't turn it over, with the plugs out, by hand or with a breaker bar fairly easy, you may have to do some tear down.

Change the oil before you start cranking on it with the starter. Put a battery in and crank it over (with the plugs out) for 10 seconds or so (several times). File the points and clean or replace the plugs (check the gap on the plugs and points. Make sure you have a clean gas tank, or get your gas from an external gas source. Prime the carb with some starter fluid and try to start it first before spending too much money on it. If it starts or runs, then start with plugs points, rotor cap, carb overhaul, etc.

Check the valve adjustments and make sure you flush the coolant. Watch the water pump for leaking. replace any dried and cracked hoses or belts.

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Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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and start it up at 0200 (2am civvy time)!!! that way you will impress your nieghbors!


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
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Builder has some good suggestions, my suggestion instead of WD Slickum I would use Kano-Kroil directly into the plug holes (it should soak in around the pistons and loosen stuck rings) and put the plugs back in loose to keep out debri or critters. Now if you get it running with fresh fuel in the tank put in some Sta-Bill to keep the fuel fresh, it's gonna be a long bild and Sta-Bill will keep the fuel fresh and help dissolve varnish in the carb. Let's face it a rebuild is in the future but with it running on it's own power will help with moving it around and keep your interest going. Good Luck. If you can't find Kroil try some Marvel Mystery Oil instead. Oh!!! if you get it running make sure the door is open, it's gonna smoke----LOTS.


You Learn more Listening than Talking
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Quote
woah, so your saying you should be able to turn the motor over by hands?, just grab the pulley or fan and spin?
You should be able to. When I was setting the timing on my truck, I was able to crank it by hand to get it to top dead center. Now you may want to try and use the breaker bar initially, but if it doesn't turn freely with all of the plugs out following a couple of revolutions using the breaker bar, that is not good at all.


58 Fleetside, 235, "The Old Buckin' Bronco"
#207518 07/31/2006 10:32 PM
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hahaha no garage for right now, and the stabil is a check, I got the steering all tied up today, started to pull the bench. I got a meeting tonight, but hopefully tonight I'll pull the plugs, swing the engine, and spray the WD/PB blaster/kano kroil; I'll update you guys tomorrow


you know your a gearhead when you pick up food to eat at the shop after wrenching all day, and you reasoning for not washing your hands is a little grease makes all food taste better
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Along with what everyone else has said:

When you get the engine freed up, you may want to think about the following...

Soak the carb in carb cleaner for a while. A rebuild kit wouldn't hurt anything, either. I was sorry that I didn't rebuild mine when I cleaned it up.

Drain any gas that's left in the tank. Make sure that you're in a well ventilated spot. It's gonna stink.

You may want to replace your ignition parts, too. It's good insurance against aneurysms. grin


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A word of caution. If the gas has been in the tank long enough, just draining isn't going to do the trick. If it's been in the tank long enough it will turn to a hard varnish like substance that won't drain out. When you put fresh gas in some of it will melt and mix with the new gas. When you turn the engine off & the mix dries on the intake valves you can end up with this. Yep, that's me and that's one of two pushrods I got to replace, and do a valve job, because I got in a hurry to start the engine. The best thing to do if you don't know how long the gas has been in the tank, or if it's been in the tank for several years, is to pull the tank and clean it out first.


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Good Point Tiny;;;;;


You Learn more Listening than Talking

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