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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,188 Posts1,057,220 Members48,465 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 | hey guys im looking to drop my truck for my next project and need some advise. if you have dropped/slamed your 63-66 chime in on what you did an pictures of the stance. I already have 2.5in drop spindles on the front but am contemplating 2in springs up front and 5 or 6 in the back. i do not want to c-notch or any other custom modification. im looking at kits with springs, shocks(relocated), sway bars and track bar. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 112 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 112 | my brothers 65 was 4 maybe 4.5 and 6, We didnt have to notch it but it sat close to the frame after the bump stops were cut off,he didnt have a problem with it bottom'n out unless he was haul'n a pretty good load.All the stuff we used was second hand aftermarket drop springs that we cut even more,the frontend could'nt be alligned corectly,but it got close,with spindles your good on that part of it,I'll get some pix from him and post them for you,It looks good,it sits level with 235/60-15's in front and 255/60-15's out back
1949 Styleline Special 1972 K5 Blazer
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 | thanks burnt. ill keep an eye out for those pics. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | You really should think about doing the bolt in AirRide kit on the rear. Yeah, it's more expensive than springs but, way worth the extra cost. It's very easy to install and of course adjustable height is nice. Especially if you ever need to throw a few hundred pounds in the bed. A 5 or 6 inch drop spring in the rear without a C notch isn't going to leave much travel. I did the rear bag kit on my '65 3/4 ton. It was all very straightforward. Relocate shock mounts and add adjustable panhard. Haven't bagged the front yet, as it's a bit more expensive. It's got a 4" drop though. I modified the control arms. Until I get the front done, I've just got a schrader valve inside the cab and a battery powered compressor to air up the rear and a little dump valve to air it down. 20psi and my frame is just about on the axle. 38psi is ride height. Doesn't take long at all to get from 20 to 38. With the rear at ride height, the rake is about the same as factory. When parked, the rear sits lower than front. Overall, I got about a 4/6 drop, still have a nice ride and can still fill the bed if I want. Something to think about. -David | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Our shop truck sits on an 85 caprice frame plus it has been channeled 5 inches. The frame is perfect for wheel base and track width for a 63 short wide. Of course it was just a TINY bit of work but the shop dog can stand flatfooted on the ground and lick your ear if the windows down and he's a chihuahua. Well maybe not quite THAT low.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | I have air on all 4 corners with a notch in the rear. Would suggest you consider the notch. not that difficult, they even have bolt ins if you don't have a welder. buy stuff in pieces not kits and you can save a $. I now can have a severe drop,(the frame will be about 3" from dragging) and can lift it to normal position for driving. Haven't gone to the drop spindles yet as that was more expensive than the way I went. Considering it tho | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 | ok. i have decided to go 3.5 up front. already have drop spindles so just add 1" drop springs. want the back 5" lower. from pictures i have found that seems like a nice stance for a daily driver.
--------->so what is the cheapest way to do this proper? can i just replace the springs only? will i need to get new shocks when i drop this low? will i need to relocate the shock mounts when i go this low? Will my front geometry be off at 3.5"(2.5 spindles + 1" springs)?
mugsy: money is a major factor right now. air may come later down the road, but right now im kinda strapped for cash.
coilover: is that the truck you had told me about last fall? sounds like you guys really did one on her! any pictures?
gazim: from what i have found for what i need kits are the cheapest. im looking for a kit with springs and sway bars, so if you know any good deals let me know | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | I understand the money thing believe me. Just get the front end aligned after installing springs. With 5" drop in rear, you're gonna want the shock relocated. It's not going to be near as effective at that angle. So, besides the springs, you'll need front and rear shocks, shock relocate kit for rear, adjustable panhard bar and some very short bumpstops. What you can do, is install the springs and shorter bumpstops in rear and check your clearance. You can always add the frame notch later. CPP's got the bolt-in C notch. You just cut, drill and bolt on. Where are you getting your stuff from? -David | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Troy your truck is looking good, I didn't relocate my shocks, I just got different ones to accept the new stance. They seem to work ok. the adjustable pannard bar is a must and might need to be relocated. when the truck is at the max eitherway the differential wants to shift about 1 1/4" side to side, hence the relocating of the pannard bar to a more level position at neutral. will look for parts for you. can't remember where I got stuff right now. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 734 | Gazim, you've got bags so shock relocate is probably not as necessary. You pump up the bags for ride height and comfort which brings shock geometry a bit closer to stock. Troy, if you're going with a permanent 5-6" drop spring or spring/lowering block combo, you're definitely going to want to relocate rear shocks. Your ride height and quality ain't the same as bags so you definitely want every advantage you can get. It's pretty easy stuff and not expensive for the little kit. If you can weld, or know someone that does, you can rework your factory mounts for a couple bucks. I cut costs every way I could, did mine like this: [img]http://img325.imageshack.us/img325/4263/dsc001175yo.th.jpg[/img] | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 227 | ok well looks like this is what i'll plan on:
first new 4" springs and relocate shocks in the back. and also sway bar for up front. that would put me at 2.5" front 4" rear
then i'll get some Dallas highway driving in and later down the road if i decide to go lower i will go 1" springs up front and maybe 1" blocks in the back. for 3.5" front 5" rear
thanks for all the info guys! | | |
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