The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Converting '62 suspension Qs

After I get my '62 home, I'll probably...well, do next to nothing on it until after The Hot Rod Reunion this summer. Except convert to a dual reservoir, which should pose some problems as it has a hydraulic clutch system. But, the reason for this post is to find out, in some very specific detail, what I can do with the front suspension.
I've heard that the whole front crossmember from later trucks can be bolted in place, giving coil springs and disc brakes. What years can I use as a donor?
Also, is there any real advantage over going to coil springs versus the original T-bars, other than cost? I work at Year One, and might be able to get a disc conversion kit and drop spindles from one of our suppliers at a very reasonable cost.
Also, I've been told that just the later steering boxes can be bolted in. Yes or no, and are there any issues that need to be addressed? (Someone said the box had to be tilted or something)
Is the steering box and linkage one more advantage to swapping the cross member?
Thanks for all your help. This isn't something I'll be tackling this month, but I'd like to have front discs and a dual reservoir master before towing my race car in June.
-Brad

www.mpbrakes.com sale an expensive power brake/clutch master combo.

Brad from what I've seen & understood about the 62's is that you already have the "A-Arms" for the disc brake & coil spring setup sOoO just find a truck around mid 60's-72 that has the parts you need. I'm fixing to do this to the 62 c-10 i've just recently got & been told "even i ~a rookie to modification~ could do it"

I have a 62 and I am sure anxious to see how your projects work out. So far, I've been told that bolt ins don't exist for 60 -62 due to the different frame that was used only those years. Also, the lower "A" ram has the socket for the torsion bar and as far as I can tell, will not accomodate a spring unless some serious refabriction is done - please let me know if I'm wrong, because I would like to abandon the torsion bars and get some coils!

I don't understand what you have against the torsion bars;I have 'em in my 62 one ton,and I LOVE 'em.They ride so much better than coils,and soak up larger bumps like they're not even there. Also,changing the ride height is just a matter of turning two bolts and having the alignment tuned slightly.So whats the problem?
I too would like better brakes,but I have a small external brake booster I got from a 64 half ton I plan to install as soon as I figure out how to flush it out and test its operation.
Speed

If you work at Year One, and can get a good price! Fatman Fab. has a bolt-in kit.(60-62) It will make the job alot easier. ------------------------------------------ 1968 B.B. Suburban

I'll update ASAP but right now the winter weather is setting so ... usually it's around noon befor i even start work on the projects. I can however take some pics of both the 62 & a 72 truck's parts if you think it might help? I was thinking lastnight about the brake lines, the steering sector/column, & a few things I need to check out anyways because of the power steering part of the question. I'll report my knowledge as it comes to me I I Captain!

The more I'm learning about these torsion bars, the more I like them. My truck always has had a smooth ride, no argument there. The rear T. bar crossmember has caused interference with my O.D. but I have this solved. The crossmember is at Buffalos as we speak. The problem with them is that replacement parts seem rare. Also, until today, I thought swaybars were either unavailable or non-applicable. Buffalo tells me he can have a set made for me with the proper measurements. And that's one less reason to ditch the torsion bars!

I'm not necessarily against the T-bars--Mopars had them, and those cars handle pretty well.
One question I've never had suffeciently answered is whether or not "cranking down" the torsion bars affects the ride quality.
the reason I've been looking at swapping cross members is because people I've talked to keep saying "It'll swap over to a later one, and then you get factory discs, better steering box, readily-available parts, etc." so I thought I'd do some checking here.
The big advantage for me would be converting to factory disc brakes and power steering...but I might be able to just swap spindles, add brake brackets, etc. I'll have to check, but I'm sure one of our vendors sells a new steering box.
I'll have to get more into it to find out.
I'd prefer to get disc brakes, a modern power steering ratio, lower the front end two inches, and keep the torsion bars.
-Brad

then buy drop spindles for your year truck.they bolt right on,drop the truck 2.5",and use 80s disc brake parts.