The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 41-46 Steering box free play.

NOTHIN' ever comes for free. But I spent 14 hours solid on my 42 Chevy truck resto and accomplished getting all the running hardware onto the frame including springs, axles, steering gear, shockies,
brakes, intermediate torgue shaft, front bumper and red zinc primered the whole deal.
Found a few bits I'm gonna have to replace from the "Chevy Farm" come Tuesday.
But geeeeeeez, it looks like a BIG truck.
The top of my head comes up to the top of the hood. (I could be shrinking).
BUT, twirling that steering wheel I rescued from a totally dead '42 sedan, found I have three quarters of a turn of the wheel to move from port to starboard or for you landlubbers from left to right direction.
Is there a little something I should be tweaking in the steering box. Is there a kit for it?
The linkages seem OK, the main problem seems to be in the steering box itself.
Maybe I should weld something after removing a couple of teeth to make it move faster from point A to B. (In the steering box).
I have all of my own teeth.
From wondering Apprentice Stovebolter downunder...I haven't finished yet, there's sure to be something else next week.

I have to add that I could only give such undisturbed attention to this old girl because I cut the grass around the house and turned it into a lawn. I guess I'll have to keep doing that.
Riceburners driving past the house now toot their horns, I don't know if they're happy or what.. I don't know who the hell these people are, maybe they're wannabee stovebolters, or folks who are just pleased to see the end of a '42 frame knee-high in a field of grass dressed only in a radiator support and a left side fender bracket.
Its kinda political ain't it?

Amazing! - Wherever you go, you find that you're already there...@@

There are two adjustments to the steering box, one is bearing preload, the other gearmesh. You need the linkage unhooked or wheels off the ground for these adjustments.

Start by setting the bearing preload. This is at the bottom of the steering shaft, on the out side of the box. First loosen the big locking ring using a dull screwdriver or like tool, its a counterclockwise rotation. Next screw the inner bearing cap into the box, clockwise till you feel it hit the bottom, rotate the wheel some to seat the bearings then back off just a touch, reset the lock ring. You shouldn't have up or down movement on the shaft or wheel. To check, get in the cab and pull up on the wheel, if its loose, go back and reset the bearings again.

Next setting is the gear mesh, this is the one you feel when driving, the rotational play in the wheel. On the side of the gear box closest to the engine, you will find a lock nut and slotted set screw. This adjust the sector shaft and worm gear. Start by moving the wheel to extreme right or left (I do this because the gears are in better shape out on the ends where they don't get as much use), then loosen the lock nut counterclockwise, and screw the inner set screw in. You should feel it bottom out. Leave it at that point and leave the lock nut loose, rotate the steering wheel across the center and to the opposite side. You will have to play with this a little till you get it right, if its to tight it won't return to center after a turn, to loose and you have the same problem you started with. I try to get about 1" to 1.5" of movement at the steering wheel, you said you had 3/4 turn or more!

With that much play, you might want to pull the box and check for damage, the sector shaft gears can and do wear out, the worm gears seem to be tougher and last longer. The bushings wear out to. All this wear can lead to the amount of play you describe. The ball and sockets of the draglink and tierods can and do wear.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress, Joe.

THANKS Joe,
That's going to be big help, I'm day off tomorrow so I'll check that box out.
I'll let you know how it went.

Thanks again

THANKS Joe, that was spot-on. I've taken up the slack from 3/4 of a wheel turn to 2". A friend of mine is coming over Saturday, he was trained as an apprentice spanner twirler by General Motors in Australia back in the 1950's and knows his way around everything GM. He said it may need new bearings dropped into it to take up the extra.
He'll be a handy bloke to have around the resto, he's very interested in what I'm doing!
He's also an ex-machinery inspector for the State Transport Department, retired now.
This truck was working with minimum maintenance for something like 62 years, so there is most likely wear in those gears. I can select from a '42 sedan, a 42 GMC and another 42 Chevy that still have steering boxes in them which most likely won't have the mileage on it that my old bus has.

Glad to here you got it closer, its always good things go right! Joe

Do you know if these same adjustments/procedures apply to a 1954 Chevy 3100 (1st series)? I just got this on 1/1/16 and I have been working on little repairs to this point. I am ready to start on some of the mechanical systems. I have a lot of play in the steering. It could be the steering box or could be all of the other components have gone bad. I thought I should start with what appears to be a fairly easy set of adjustments.

1954 truck steering box adjustments

1942-47 truck steering gear adjustments

Thanks for your help. Timing is everything. My son tracked down and just gave me (3/2/16) an original Shop Manual for my 54 3100. I see most of this information is available online but if anyone needs me to scan and post any procedures from the shop manual reach out and I will do my best to respond ASAP. I have said this before, but this site is one of the most useful uses of the web I have ever found. Great group of members. Very helpful.

Dave,

That is very thoughtful of you. I'm sure some of our '54 guys will be on this, once they see it!

And thanks for the comments about the site. It's people like you and many others who make it so useful.

Peg