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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,131 Posts1,056,727 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 56 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 56 | Anyone out there had any experience adjusting the parking brake AT THE WHEEL HUB? I just adjusted the wheel cylinders and the parking brake cable/rod/etc as described in the manual, and the whole thing just sorta binds up when I push down on the pedal hard...feels like it outta be scrunching the pads down hard on the drums (I really jammed on it), but it doesn't do much of anything and the truck rolls on a very slight grade. Then I saw in the back of the brake section of the Shop Manual that there's a procedure for adjusting a lever and link and eccentric bolt at the hub. Anyone done this? Should it be done every time the brakes are adjusted? I jam on the pedal, and nothing much happens, even after adjusting the pads/cylinders. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 586 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2003 Posts: 586 | Sounds like you don't have the e cable tight enough. Jack up the rear so that your tires are free. You should be able to spin the rear tires by hand at least 2 revolutions. Start tightning the e cable so that you get drag on the rear wheels. Tighten till you only get about 1 1/2 turns when you try to spin it by hand. That should be it. I don't know if its the proper way but its always worked for me. Also, make sure its in neutral and you have blocks in the front. No use putting extra drag in the mix. Cecil......... | | |
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