The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Its not a Stovebolt, I'm Sorry

i know this truck is not a stovebolt but its old and its one hell of a truck its a 1968 International Harvester 1100C Its a 1/2 ton 4x4 single cab long box pickup its got the 345 V-8 (motors got some nuts) 4 speed and 2 speed part time divorced t-case Dana 44 front and back and both are posi (this is what i was told about the axles) and all 4 tires do spin its a heavy 1/2 ton (got overloads in the back what i would like to know is whats out there on the market for this trucks? motor up-grades lifts kits stuff like that the rims are 5x5 1/2 and they are the old split rims was thinking of seeing if Chevy springs would be the same (was told chevy axles would bolt right in) cause if the springs work then a lift kit would be easy but the front axle is a closed knuckle dana 44 now would the differential carrier swap right in to a open knuckle dana 44? any sorts of help would be greatly appreciated
Nate

try this site- www.oldihc.org I also have an international- 1953 2 ton at least?, actually, and it's just about impossible to find parts for. But get on that site, it's a lot like this one- forums and other helpful stuff.

yeah - www.oldihc.org



that and a few other places linked here:

http://woogeroo.home.mindspring.com/autolinks/trucks.html#ihc


-W

Been a while since I've been into a Dana 44, but if memory serves, they don't have a carrier where you can pull the ring and pinion out as an assembly. All the gears come out through the front cover opening. The gears and locker may fit the open axle but I expect you will have to re-set the pinion depth / gear lash. Somewhere around here I've got a book covering dana 44 axles. I'll see if I can find it.

if you are not going to keep it origional and want to lift it i would do the following:

1) put a ford or chevy dana 60 up front depending on what side you transfer case is on
2) put a corp. 14 bolt full floater in the back
3) get a set of superlift softride springs at the height you want
4) get some nice long travel shocks, 2 on each side up front 1 each in the back
5) get a set of super swamper radial tsl's in the size you need, good traction and great road manners and wear
6) get a winch and get ready to have a ton of fun with your buddies

if you do not want to go crazy i am sorry but that is all i know how to do with a 4x4 truck.

Can I have your old axles? Why do you want to change 'em? If they're not broken,you should keep 'em. Keep in mind it'll cost you a BIG chunk o' change to get a GM posi front and rear completefor your truck,and if you break anything on the GM axles it won't be much cheaper to fix. If it's about custom wheels,there's a lot of wheels available for it; you might see if Ford 1/2 ton wheels fit. (try one on front and rear-don't just go by measurement.)
Not a lot out there for cornbinders,but there's a few things you can improve. The 392 cane with a 4 barrel intake-that's a good thing. Use a 600 cfm Edelbrock carb;you might have to fine tune the jetting,but it isn't hard to do. I'd also do the Pertronix ignition on it,and dual exhausts,at least 2-1/4" pipes.If you really have to squeeze more power out of it,mill the heads a little and get a good cam for it. depending on where you want your torque to come in,you can probably arrange it here. You'll be wanting low end and mid range performance,Internationals don't handle high revs well.Gut ripping torque is their gig.
Don't expect great gas mileage-they aren't an economical engine,but as long as you take reasonable care of 'em and don't twist 'em over 4,000 rpms,they're amazingly tough and reliable.
See if there's a line sheet in your truck. It's usually tucked into the seat back. If you find one-BINGO! It'll be very helpful in buying replacement parts. IH used parts from so many different manufacturersDelco,Motorcraft,Motorola,Echlin,Holley,Carter,name it) that without the line sheet,which will tell you the part number for pretty near everything installed in your truck at the factory,it's nearly impossible to be sure of getting the exact correct part.
Enjoy your truck,and don't drive stupid.
Speed

Ford, early jeep, and some Dodge 1/2 ton wheels will fit it with that bolt pattern. The 345 is a tough engine, 300,000 miles isn't out of the question with proper care. They do like gas, alot of it. When I was a kid there was a guy that came to go hunting on our farm every year. He had an old binder set up just like yours, it'd go anywhere. Good luck with this truck, I know there aren't alot of parts out there for them but you can find them.

Rob

ya i have some great experiances with this truck, i've jumped it (i know not smart, did it for a movie) but this truck can take anything can go through anything pretty much just differen't tires would help the front has straight tread steer tires and the back has one worn snow tire and one thats like brand new i was told chevy axles would bolt right in
FORT KNOX i like your thinkin that would be what i'd really want to do with the truck then paint it MACK green and mount the bull dog on the hood
none of you have to tell me that this is one tough truck, that i already know it can take one hell of a beating and it doesn't use any oil it just keeps on running and running even with a messed up 2 barrel Holley and yes it does love gas but i don't help that i can't get the t-case out of 4 wheel drive and the hubs are pain to un lock (got em un-locked once and now i can't even get the one fully locked, needs to go another 1/8 in.)
thanks for all your help... keep it coming
Nate

Nate,

Another place to try is The Binder Bulletin A couple of years ago when I was messing with my 345-powered Loadstar 1800, I got a lot of good info & advice there.

John

i've been on binder bulletin but i just didn't look around to much and just couldn't quite figure out how to use it, like i wanted to get a picture of my truck on there but it was kinda confuseing and didn't know how to use it all but i am a member on that board just don't really use it at all and kinda forgot about it
Nate

Sounds like it might be worthwhile to pull the hubs apart and clean/inspect/repair them. They should be pretty near foolproof. I'd bet cleaning them up and re-packing them with a light grease would make them work right,provided there's no chewed up parts inside. If you have a warm place to work on it,that'd be a good time to re-pack your wheel bearings and look at the front brakes. It's a lot easier to do it all in one stop than to have to shut it down twice for similar services.
Speed

On my old F**d's, when the hubs started binding like that it was the Torrington bearing inside the spindle that was wore out and letting the axle shaft droop and caused the hubs to be almost impossible to lock or unlock.

Rob

its possible to lock and un-lock but you need to use like a pliers, channel locks, vice grips to do it
Nate

oldcarandtrucknut .... is your IH a single or duel axle? im picking up a 37 duel axle, (not duel wheel) and i need to get some kind of idea what im going to need to get to tow it. i have not even seen it in person, but know the guy that has it. and ive seen a few pics of it but we have no way to measure it at the time until i go to pick it up. any rough ideas on what to tow it on?


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