Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
Plenty of places to share. | | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (51sub, farmallb, 1955 1 Series, walter74, TexasA&M48Truck, baldeagle, dt235sd, Charles in CA, 32Fordpuchoptop),
30
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,005 Posts1,055,256 Members48,418 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | I need to change the ignition switch and I also need to replace the speedometer cable in my truck.
The ignition switch is held down with a retainer bezel. Is there a special tool to get this off? The bezel has four wedges in it.
I was wondering if I can pull the speedometer face forward after loosening the speedometer bezel screws in order to change the cable? The space is limited for my hands to reach under the dash let along see what I'm doing. I thought I'd ask before I start.
Please excuse me if these seem to be stupid questions but I’ve never replaced anything in my dash before.
I’d appreciate any input. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | no stupid questions here Mark! just sometimes some stupid answers the bezel is actually a wierd bolt that screws out of the hole the shaft goes in - have to remove the shaft first by pulling it out to the "headlites on" position then reach under and push in the little steel peg sticking out of the mrtal plate side of the switch, and you can pull it the rest of the way out just carefully tap against the wedged bits w/ a screwdriver to thread the bezel out the gauge cluster does move out when you take out the screws, but isn't really necessary to change the cable - just reach in and feel it and unscrew it [just a thumbscrew thing that shouldn't be real tight] - it is an awkward fit, but not hard take a trouble light and get a good look under there before you do anything and it'll be easier to do it all 'blind' Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | Originally posted by red58:
the bezel is actually a wierd bolt that screws out of the hole the shaft goes in - have to remove the shaft first by pulling it out to the "headlites on" position then reach under and push in the little steel peg sticking out of the mrtal plate side of the switch, and you can pull it the rest of the way out
just carefully tap against the wedged bits w/ a screwdriver to thread the bezel out
That's for an ignition switch?? Sounds more like a headlight switch?? | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | I've had my hand in behind the speedometer and can find the thumb screw. I wasn't sure if the cable was replaced with the dash pulled forward though. I just need to get enough light under there in order to see.
Thanks for your help. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | doooh - yer right Smitty - I just got done fixing a headlight sw today so got that on the brain - s'ok, Mark'll need to know that next sorry, yes the ign sw is the one w/ the 4 notches around the outside - just need to tap that loose carefully - there was a tool for it back in the day, but gotta make do now Bill | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 | You're right Mark, the speedometer face is rather awkward to work on. You can replace the cable without pulling the cluster out. If you need to pull the cluster out, first remove the screws holding the chrome frame in....then pull the cluster forward. You may have to use a screwdriver to gently pry it out. We found that the limited lengths of the wires, etc didn't allow the cluster to come out very far. Also found that the oil pressure line wasn't nearly long enough to pull the guages out very far...had to undo that one then later changed it to a longer one. Youhave to be a real contortionist to work under the dash! Good luck! | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 688 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 688 | How do I put this ...I am blessed with a goodly supply of stored energy. but getting onto what looks to be a big floorboard is difficult so I thought I would just take out the guage cluster easy huh? Well it's easy to take out the 3 screws and pry out the cluster but thats it. She wont go more than an inch with out removing several lines and wires so I tend to agree with the others. Get a light to see the set-up, and just hope that no one has used a pipe wrench to tighten the speedometer cable, otherwise you can do this by hand. Oh yes if you are not already .....don't get fat, it make repairs more difficult.
Cliff59 | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | This sounds as bad as working behind the dash on an AD truck! I didn't think that it could get any worse. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 | Cliff is right... it doesn't come out very far unless you undo everything. And he's also right... go slow and see where everything goes because something's bound to pop out of place. It was also a real joy putting it all back in place... just when you think you've got it done another guage light bulb pops out of it's socket.
I don't think many of us are without "stored energy" Cliff! I'll have to remember that one! | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 42 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 42 | I have had my gauge cluster out a few times. It is definitely a PITA, as there is just not a lot of slack in the harness. Very easy to scratch your dash and/or steering column while doing this if you're not careful, so put a towel or something over the column.
I am considering making a multiple pin connector and mini-harness to route all the lines through, in order to make it easier to work on the gauges in the future (as I have some gauge problems). Anyone done this already?
As far as the speedo goes, I have had good luck getting it out by feel without resorting to messing with the gauge cluster. Getting it back on is a little more tricky unless you have good "muscle memory" to know where to put the cable, but feeling around with the diagram in front of you may help. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 241 | I think I'll leave the speedometer face in place and opt for feeling my way around under the dash. Sometimes when I fix one thing I break another.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Have a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah or politically correct Happy Holidays. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | The best way to get those ignition bezels loose is to buy a cheap pair of needle-nose pliers at Wal-Mart, then grind the nose until it fits into the notches. Then you can spin it free. | | |
| |