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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,055 Posts1,055,782 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | If I were to use the front straight axle for a trailer, what would be the correct way to set it up so it would travel straight. How would I determine which position to weld the joints? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | builder,
I have posted an answer to this about 5 times and deleted it....lots of variables. This might be a "semi-easy" way to do it. Assuming you still have the backing plates and drums on, you could snap or draw a line down the exact center of the axle itself. This "center" has to be the same "center" as the spindle/kingpin center. Use a straight piece of square tubing or wood and clamp it to the backing plate.
Measure out a 3"-4"-5" triangle...this will give you a true right angle, or 90 degrees. If you do this on both ends, the spindles will be straight with the axle centerline, which is what you want. If 3"-4"-5" isn't enough, you can use multiples of these numbers. Use whatever fits nicely on the axle and your straight reference piece clamped to the backing plate.
After you weld the knuckles (a [censored]) and set it in your trailer frame, center it exactly side to side, then pull a tape from each spindle end to a common point on the tongue. When this measurement is the same, the trailer should track right behind your rig. I'll bet there is an easier way and we'll hear about it real soon.
Now you can see why I hesitated in my reply...good luck!
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | I've thought about doing this and simply locking the knuckles with a fixed tie rod. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | GMCpanel,
I have seen it done your way quite often. Much easier, although the spindles still have to be straight with the axle.
Stuart. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 608 | Gents As Stuart said get it close with a 3,4,5 and then use a steel turnbuckle between the steering arm and the axle beam itself or a bracket bolted to the beam. this gives you the adjustment needed to get it to track straight after the buildup is finished.  Regards steve sr. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | atomarc - I have a very dead 3/4-ton Chebby 55.1 that is going to become a utility trailer - I've been debating whether to keep the rear axle under there, or move the front axle back. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | GMCpanel,
I have seen many truck beds, complete with original rear end etc buzzing down the road as utility trailers. I guess it depends how much time and energy you want to put into the project. Using the bed, frame it's attached to and rear end and springs that are hooked to the frame will certainly take any alignment problems out of the equation..quick and easy! You could paint it the same color as your truck and it could be a bolt pulling a bolt.
Stuart.
Stuart. | | |
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