The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Rear brake drums 53 3/4 ton

I am replacing my brakes and wheel cylinders on my 53 3/4 ton. I had no problem getting my front drums off. I just loosened the brake adjuster tha the drum slide right off.

The rear is a different story. The adjusters are frozen solid and the brakes are pretty tight. Is there a holdback on the rear brakes to keep the adjuster from turning? I can't see or feel any thing.

I have never taken a 3/4 ton drum off (that I remember)Does the drum come off over the hub?
Another thing is the drum has 2 flat head screws in in that look like they could be removed and used with long 1/4 inch bolts to pull the drum off.

Any suggestions as to how to get these blasted things off. I tried penetrating oil and heat on the adjuster.. No luck

Usually you have to pull the entire drum and hub as an assembly on the rear. That consists of pulling the axle and the retaining nuts that are under the axle. It still may be a battle to get it off if there's a ridge, a lot of rust, or like mine, someone left the parking brake on for nearly 20 years. Good luck to you,
Scott

rust bucket,
A search turned this up!


the pre 50 Huck rear brake drums are separate from the hubs, so the bearings don't need to come off. Once the large flathead screws between the lugs are off, the drum soud slide off. Loosen off the cylinder first, then to get the shoes off, undo the park brake cable at the crossmember at the front of the box. The cylinder ends may pop out when the shoes are removed. Have a clamp or piece of bent rod handy to secure the cylinders. If you are just changing the cylinders, you don't need to remove the shoes totally, just unhook the return spring and the shoes will separate.

Stuart.

I am familiar with the 51 but I believe that the drums come off separate from the hubs. When you get to 1 1/2 Ton, things change. The screws definitely have to come out first then you can work on getting the drum off. If you can turn the drum then you shouldn't have too much difficulty. You need to strike the flat face which is against the hub and this tends to break the rust bond. Using heat usually results in a squealing drum when it is reinstalled. turning the drum while you are pulling it off is sometimes helpful.

My front ones were tricky to get off because of a ridge that developed inside the drum. Therefore I attached a chain to two of the studs, and with the outer wheel bearing removed, I yanked on the chain with an iron bar. That worked quite nicely.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire brake system on my my 53 3/4. The drums can come off with or without the hubs. Removing the large screws allow you to remove just the rear drums. Lots of PB Blaster and then using a hand held impact driver broke the screws loose for me.

My adjuster was also frozen, but eventually, by banging, pulling, twisting, etc. I was able to get the drums off. Had to bend some return springs, but I'm replacing all the springs anyway.

I'll try to get some pictures online over the weekend, but I've got to pick up a couple of loads of firewood among other honey-do's.

On my 52 3/4t GMC the two screws had to come out then it took a while using a hammer to break the rust loose. I still had to use a hammer and pry bar to work the drum off over the shoes. My adjusters were frozen solid.

A few choice words and holding your tongue in just the right position might help too. Keep at it and good luck.

eng12

Thanks guys...I was away for a few days but now that I am back I will try some of these things tomorrow.

The screws came out pretty easily. I still can't move the adjuster and I am pretty sure the shoes are holding the drum on. I can barely turn the drum without the wheel on. The brakes seem very tight.

I will let you know tomorrow how it goes.

RB53

if you were able to take out the screws easily and turn the drum at all.... it should come off. Beat it with a hammer to loosen it up. Beat the face of the drum an it will "bounce" off... well at least get it started.

The drums came off easier than I thought. I took out the screws and cleaned the joint around the hub with a wire brush. A little wd 40 ... A little hammering on the face of the drun with a metal slug around the hub and the studs.

I disconnected and lubed the park brake cables with wd forty to be sure they were completely disengaged.

I took 2 old tire irons I have that are bent in a curl af the very tip (1/8 inch) They fit in between the drum and backing plate. The curl hooked in nicely. 2 pulls than the drum cam free. The other side went the same.

Thank for the help everyone.

I now have a wheel bearing questuion but will start another string.

RB53