The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Can it be done?

now i deffinitally don't know a lot about cars but what i do know is my dad has had this 1955? chevy truck in the garage since we moved here. i havn't seen it run in my lifetime. i'm almost 19. i want to fix it up. what i want to know is a month too little time for me to learn what to do and do it? if not i'll upload pictures and see what you guys think. its not falling apart it just looks not so great. oh yeah... and how can i hotwire it to see if it runs? ha! what should i do to it before i try and get it to run?

Welcome to the board here! Best thing to do first is find this place, and you've dunnit!
I dont think a month to learn is a big deal, depends on what you know already and how much time you have.
Anyways, before starting it, go over the basics and safety stuff first!
MAKE SURE ITS IN NUETRAL
check oil and coolant levels first.
put a new battery in it, probably still 6 volts.
Dont waste time messing around with used crap batteries and/or jumping it........ takes all the fun out of it!
FRESH GAS in tank. LEAK CHECKS!
If your gonna hotwire it to run, always have a friend in the seat holding clutch down, just in case! You'll be under the hood jumping pos voltage to the + side of the coil.
Never look down the carburetor while cranking or running, in case of backfiring.
If it starts, it'll definetly smell and make noises for awhile, I hope you're not inside the garage! do this outside!

Lettuce know how it turns out!

Welcome to the forum! I'm kind of new here myself, but I do have experience getting old stuff going.

Johnny's got some good advice. Here are some other things I've noticed on my '46.

If it's been sitting for a long time with gas in the tank, you may need to replace any rubber fuel lines you've got. (and don't forget to drain all of that skanky rotten gas out)

A tip to check the fuel pump (if you have a floor starter) is to crank it without the key being on. If she squirts, then you're probably good to go.

I had to take apart my carb and "degunk" it. That might be a good idea if you can't get it to fire.

Check the distributor. You'll probably have to put a new condenser on if nothing else. Check that the points and the rotor are still good. You may need new plugs and wires.

Check the generator. If it seems deficient in charging, you'll probably need to clean up the armiture (that copper thing on the butt-end of the innards) and the brushes (those little black things in the clips that touch the aforementioned copper thing). Use a VERY FINE grained sandpaper, or go to an auto parts store and ask for generator cleanup strips.

Chances are that the transmission is going to be different than any other you've ever driven. The first time you put it into gear (after checking that you've got enough 90 in there) ease up on the clutch until it starts to engage and hold it there until the engine recovers (1-2 seconds) and then ease it out the rest of the way. If you pop the clutch, she'll stall on you. And don't bring it out of first or second (depending on how many speeds you have) until you have brakes. Reverse may be a little stiff.

Let us know how she runs once you get her going!

Oh, and also...

Do you not have the keys?

If the truck hasn't run in a long time, you definitely do NOT want to turn it over right away. At best you probably have surface rust in the cylinders. You should do a search here for starting an engine that's been standing a while. If I recall, the concensus is that you should pull the plugs, squirt in some easing oil, and let it sit for a day or two.

If you score the cylinder walls trying to get it started, you could be facing a much bigger job shortly!

Brian

i don't think i have keys... but i've always wanted to learn how to hotwire something despite the fact that the van in my garage is vastly different than anything modern. i'll go get some easing oil right now because that sounds like a very good idea. i'll do a search on google first tho. thanks!

oh also. my dad is concerned about the frame and other things. does this seem resonable or should we just assume that its fine?

Provided you know the difference between a 1/2 inch socket and a 3/4 inch socket, you outta be able to get a good handle on it in a months time.

Lots of good advice so far, but i'd like to stress what Brian McGee said.. if the truck has been sitting for 19+ years, the very first thing you're going to wanna do is make sure that the engine isnt stuck!

A bent or busted crank isn't going to be something you wanna start out trying to fix!

With the sparkplugs removed (pay close attention to where the wires go so you can put it back together again!) spray a generous amount of WD40 or other penetrating oil down the "holes".

Then with the transmission in neutral, try and turn the engine over by hand by the fan. With no sparkplugs in the engine, this outta be pretty easy to do. If she won't turn, or you really have to struggle to get it to turn over, then spray some more penetrating oil down the sparkplug holes and let it sit and soak.

While it's soaking, this is also a good time to drain the old gas out of the fuel tank, and pull the valve cover off and spray the crap out of the rocker arms, valve springs, and other associated moving things.

Once everything is all lubed up and moving freely, put a fresh set of spark plugs in (new wires, cap, rotor won't hurt, either!) put a fresh battery in along with fresh, new battery cables and fire it up!

If she won't start from there, we'll probably need to know what engine you have in it before giving specific advice (i.e. is it original motor, or did somebody put a 350 in there?)

Welcome to the nuthouse!

That vehicle sounds a bit out of your league... better have it dragged over to my place, I'll let you give me $50 take it off your hands.

Actually, pay attention to what the intelligent fellows have to say....

Go buy a MOTORS manual and/or a shop manual for the year of the truck.... those manuals will explain how to fix broke stuff, and properly put it all back together.

I'd also encourage you to not tear it all apart, yet...

Fumblin's advice is good. I'd recommend you use "Sta-bil Fogging Oil" in the cylinder wells (the spark plug holes). The fogging oil is designed for use in cylinders. Do it a couple of times (days apart) before you try to turn it over.

Rusty's advice to get a shop manual (not an owners manual) for your truck is a good one. You can get them on eBay or through the usual replacement-parts vendors listed on this site. If you have a replacement engine in there, like a V8, get a service manual (such as a Haynes or a Chilton) for it from your local bookstore. Then, just follow the instructions and ask questions here when you're stumped.

As for the keys, you should be able to buy a new ignition tumbler and key set for your truck fairly inexpensively from the same suppliers. Don't "hotwire" it.

Have fun!

BillyBob, welcome to the assalyum, lots of good info so far. While you have the valve cover off take a hammer and a block of wood and tap each one of the valves to make sure none are stuck. You should be able to tell if they are. Before you try to start the truck make sure that their is oil to the rocker arms and the rest of the system. Disconect the coil wire so she won't start, and turn it over until you see oil at the rockers. Having said that I know that you have gotten rid of of all the old crappy gas from the tank and lines. You can try to turn the motor in netural with a braker bar and socket on the crank pulley, take the plugs out and try a little marvele mystery oil in each cylinder, let it sit for a day or two before tring to trun it over if you can trun it by hand you can try the starter. But be sure not to rev it to high once it starts, just enough gas to keep it running until it starts to warm up. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.

thanks everyone. i just put in some marvels magic oil into the cylinder wells. the original engine was replaced with a straight 6. i'ma wait till pops gets home to try anything else. boo to not letting me hotwire it but u guys know better than me what to do... maybe i could make a computer circuit to start it... hmmm.... i'm in school for computer engineering and that could be fun ha. i'll try it your way first tho. any guestimates as to how much this should cost? it needs some body work too. i really gotta upload some pictures.. well thanks again!

If the truck has been stored out of the weather for all that time, chances are it can be freed up to turn without dismantling the engine. However, no matter where the engine is stopped, at least a couple of valves will be open to the atmosphere. That means humidity will be getting into the cylinders and causing rust, possibly. Drain the crankcase oil, and replace the drain plug. Remove the spark plugs, and pour a couple of ounces of Kroil into each cylinder. Let it sit for several days, and you can drain it out of the crankcase and run it through again. It will "creep" right through rust deposits between the pistons and the cylinders. Remove the valve cover and soak the valve stems with the same oil while you're at it.

www.kanolabs.com

It's the best penetrating oil I've ever used, and the U.S. Air Force thinks so, too! It's on every Air Force base bench stock worldwide. It's made right here in Nashville!

Good luck, and keep us informed.
Jerry

BillyBob,

Go buy a copy of "How to Restore Your Chevy Pickup". It is basic, but helps you draw up a plan. You need a plan before you start spending money...if you start one plan and then change to another...lots of money down the tube.

Check the links section above. Most of the parts suppliers sell the book.

All you have to do to hotwire one of these is run a "hot wire" from the battery to the coil, and jump from the battery wire lug to the solenoid lug on the starter. Don't want to run it very long this way, though, because the normal battery-to-coil wire will have a resistor in it to prolong points lifetime.

If I were doing this, I would do these steps:

1) Make sure the engine isn't seized.
2) Make sure the engine is getting good gas -- temporarily run a line to a 5 gallon gas tank works.
3) Make sure the fuel pump is working and the carb isn't stuck -- turn it over a bit with the pedal pressed and check for gas smell.
4) Make sure that, with the engine in the "ready to start" position, you have 12 volts measured at the coil.
5) Start it up and drive it across the country.

You can check underneath, but if the body isn't shot and the truck hasn't been stored in tall grass, the frame is probably in good shape.

Brian

P.S. Joking about #5. Drive AROUND the country!!

B

Brian

Good luck, Billy Bob. If you've got the tools and free time you'll be able to do it.

My husband had our big truck running after sitting about the same lenght of time in about 2 weeks and about $1,000.US dlls. (including a couple of tires).

My truck had been sitting for 24 years & we pulled it out of the barn May 1st. This time my husband couldn't do too much since he is working away from home all week & only has weekends. We depended on our mechanic friend to give it a go over & get it running. The electrical conversion was done by someone else too. Bought a few parts: new fuel pump, coil, reconstructed radiator, reconstructed the water pump, put in donated alternator, Petronix electronic ignition kit and the little stuff; apark plugs, etc. Just got the king pins changed so the new tires (7.50 16's) wouldn't hit on anything & was lucky to find the rims I wanted for $50.

You wanted a guesstimate- we've gone through $2,100. I put it in to paint last Wednsday ($1,000 US).

Our budget was $3,500. It's been great! I wish we had a shed or garage & the time to have been able to have done it ourselves. I could have learned something & saved a bundle of $$$. Luckily, labor is a lot more reasonable here in Mexico.

Good luck & listen to these guys and gals- all these heads are fantastic and have been a great help and are patient about explaining and know what they're talking about.

Sabrina

You say it's a 1955?. There were two series of '55s. One was 6V (first series) and the other 12V. You need to determine what you have before you stick a battery in it. Go to the "Gallery" and compare it to the pictures there and let us know what you have.

Better yet, you say you are computer savvy, post a picture.

Lots of good info here and some of it seems to condradict other. Let me add a few things.

Hot wiring won't hurt a thing. Just be sure you use a 6V battery if it's a 6V system or you risk frying your guages. And if it has a stock starter you won't be jumping the solenoid. There is a big button on the floor near the accellerater to push with your foot.

One other thing no one else mentioned. Old trucks are addictive. One puff and you're hooked. You've been warned.

And most important- have fun.

BillyBOB

Good Luck with the project. With all the help at this site you will have it up and running before you know it.

One word of advice though - Be Patient and Keep the Enthusiasm. There are a lot of old vehicles out there that never made it down the road before the enthusiasum ran out. Mines be several years of pure fun.

Good Luck and keep checking the website.

lol yeah pops said its a 1954.5 or thats what some people call it... its got features of both a 54 and a 55 so pops says... i took pictures with my old camera and need to get them uploaded but its got a weird type of miniusb hook up which i can find the wire for blah blah blah. i don't even want to look at labor prices.. i'm an hour outside of new york city and i'm sure it would be down right outrageous! haha. thanks for all the support, help and advice!

Since you want to learn about old trucks in one month I suggest you start using the Tech page as well as the other support pages listed on the top of the page. If you want to search for previous posts use the search feature located across from the BULLETIN BOARD heading next to directory. Google will take a lot of time and searching, these pages have most of what you need already answered.

55 first series 55 second series

Don't rush into trying to start the truck, patience is required. You have read most of the precautionary's that are necessary to get you going. Gas, carburetion, oil are on the top of the list. Hand turning the engine is also recommended as well as pre-lubing the rocker assembly. Check the battery that was in it for the proper voltage, three caps = six volts, six caps = twelve volts also check to see if the generator is a twelve volt or six volt (delco tag on generator)

One thing that was not mentioned was brakes! Make sure you have your tires chocked and replace the brakes before you try to drive it.

If you have any buddies that are into old Chevies, borrow their keys, chances are theirs might work in your ignition. I am sure I have a key that will start most of the old Chevies prior to 1967.

Make sure you have plenty of ventilation when you get this going, there will be smoke from all of the oil that you squirted in the cylinders. Also it would be wise to have fire extinguisher handy. Good luck and have fun! .........g

I'd like to throw in my 2 cents worth; BEFORE you pull the spark plugs,use a compressor or air tank and blow gun and blow the loose crud away from the plugs. I loosen each plug about half a turn to loosen the debris,then go through and blow the caked oil and dirt away from the plugs,so it won't have a chance to fall into the cylinders when you remove the plugs. same goes for the built up junk around the lower edge of the valve cover,the carb,etc. It's all about keeping contaminants out of your newly acquired engine.

Thats REAL good advice.. a big glob of crud down in the cylinder would not be cool.

All three of the engines i've brought back after sitting 20+ years had a significant layer of greasy oily dried dirt on them, and took more than air to clean them.. the '46 I had to use a putty knife to get most of the crud off and it came off in thick layers.

In the '50 3100 and the '52 Do*ge, I put a plastic bag over the distributor and carb and sprayed the crap out of them with Engine Brite, then after soaking for a bit, hit 'em with a pressure washer.. that got 'em nice and clean.

Valve cover off

what should i tap with wood to make sure it isn't frozen?

i just got some pictures on my comp so i should have some up on a website real soon.

Tap the end with the springs on it. Make sure they, move, well bounce realitively freely. You know they are a little stuck when you tap on them and they don't come back up or they come back up very slowly, or if you can see them come back up for that matter. Looks like a 235 to me. Good Luck.

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ok

i was wrong when i thought earlier if i hit the rocker arm it would mess with the cam shaft...

also there was oil in the engine when i drained it so that can't be a bad thing. it was nasty tho. but atleast it didn't leak out from anywhere.

BillyBob,

How far away from a spray car wash are you? I would spray on some degreaser...OK...several coats over a weeks time, put that thing on a car dolly and tow it to the car wash.

I did it with mine. It helped out. Best part was all that stinky old grease was gone. Before you hit the car wash, scrape/brush the big stuff off so you don't wash all that gunk down the drain. Once clean, the old beast will be much more pleasant to work on.

If you are miles from a car wash, never mind.

starter works. oil changed. radiotor has no major leaks, just the heater hoses need replaced. doesn't start. i'm gonna put some more penetrating oil in the cylinders. what say you guys otherwise? should i make a tool that goes into the front flywheel thing and try and break it free? or is that a bad idea. maybe drop the oil pan and see whats going on with it down below?

A quick thing I would do is try turning the engine by hand (with the fan) both directions. If it is free one direction, but stops going the other something could possibly be broken. Like everyone said, poor something into the cylinder, and let it sit for a day or so, then try turning it over by hand, it is possible that the starter may be faulty. If you cant turn it by hand with the fan, you could try forcing it with a screwdriver, or something in the flywheel, but to a certain degree. You dont want to force it too much, you could make things worse.

Im sure people here are going to disagree, but from the looks of it, it may very well be froze up. I know on my 55 chevy, the 235 can be tuned over by hand with the fan very easily, but probably because the motor is so wore out and needs to be rebuilt.

Good luck with your project, its always fun exploring in the world of mechanics, especially on older vehicles.

- Shane

Also, the flywheel is at the back of the motor, i really have never worked on my 55's motor yet so i havent a clue if there is a plate that can be removed to get to it or not. There is no flywheel on the front ot the motor, just the harmonic balancer, and pulleys.

- Shane

I put up a page on my site about reviving a "field" truck.

Tell me what you guys think of it:
http://www.speedyoldtruck.com/index.php?page=revival

BillyBob,

If you start cranking on the flywheel you run the risk of jamming something up -- consider what might happen if the sticking part is a valve stem

The suggestion to take the valve cover off and oil the upper valve train is a good one. And, just like stripping wallpaper, have patience and let the oil do the work.

Brian

2 valves are sticky. getting air in the tires to roll it out of the garage and clean it up. more MMO was put in the cylinders.

i put MMO on the sticky valves. any other suggestions on what to do for them?

there were the collyflower locking lug nuts on the tires to prevent them from being stolen if anyone remembers them. couldn't find the keys. but we had them all off within minutes. apparently a screwdriver and a hammer work fine with those haha. some theft prevention.

With the plugs out and the tranny in neutral, you outta be able to turn the engine both ways by hand just by grabbing on to the fan.

If it won't turn that way easilly, then you got somethin' stuck, bro.

Get ya a funnel and a 1 gallon can of WD40 or Kerosene and fill those cylinders up and let it soak for a few days, giving it a wiggle in the mornin' and night.

Lube the crap out of the top of the motor, too.. and do the valve spring wood & hammer smack trick to make sure all your valves are doing their thing.

As it's been said before.. the penetrating oil/WD40/Kerosene method can take time to soak thru and loosen things up.. patience is the key.

wd40 in the cylinders? really? what is best? i need to buy something so i might aswell buy the best thing for it. MMO/Kroil/WD40/Kerosene... i'm thinking kroil.

The air valve stems on my two front tires were ripped off. i took it to Mavis tire and they replaced them both for $6.24. much better of a price than having both tires replaced.

It sounds like your getting right along. Can you add more pictures of the truck, would like to see what shape its in, what it looks like, etc.. Have fun, and like everyone is telling you, patience is very important.

- Shane

Diesel will help in the cylinders, but any of the ones you listed can't hurt anything either. Diesel worked for me. Good Luck. ^^ I second that picture idea.

1955 1st Series 3100

drained the oil i just put in yesterday out today. its nasty. apparently it needs a couple more passes with clean oil.
i moved it outside and hosed it down. hopefully i got all the bugs out of it.
i gotta get more MMO or something like it.

"starter works. oil changed. radiotor has no major leaks, just the heater hoses need replaced. doesn't start"

does this mean that you actually got the engine to crank over with the starter? or does "doesn't start" means won't crank over?
sounds to me like there's nothin stuck that you need to be dumpin more MMO or those other things in the cylinders, which will not make it start more easily - to clean out the oil pan flush it w/ diesel a couple times

Bill

the starter works. but the engine won't crank over. i'll try flushing the oil pan with diesel.

then save the diesel - if you can't turn the engine by hand from the front pulley w/ plugs removed as said above, then you've most likely got rust stuck pistons - if filling the cylinders w/ diesel and soaking for a couple days doesn't do it, you'll be needin to pull the head for more lively persuasion, which may or may not result in need for major engine work - if the diesel doesn't do it, might be time to look for a running used engine

Bill