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#181813 03/31/2005 3:43 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
went out and bought a mightyvac despite hearing some problems others have experienced. the way I read instructions says to pump-up vacumm and then open bleeder screw...I did this approx 20 times on one wheel alone and barely got 1/2" of fluid. (forgot to mention that drums are off and I was using this after replacing all lines and hoses, so systems was almost bone dry)
I got so frustrated I went back to the old style and bleed manually. used about 32oz of brake fluid so far and still must have air in line as pedal goes to floor.
two questions: am I using mightyvac right? normal to run that much fluid through lines and still have air in them? :confused:


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
#181814 03/31/2005 4:12 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 164
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 164
I seem to have problems getting the little fittings to hold seal on the end of the bleed screws so rather than pulling air thru the lines it sucks air around the bleed screw. Rather than a one hand job it turns into a 3 hand job......

#181815 03/31/2005 7:09 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
I too had trouble using the mityvac. But that's not why you aren't getting any pedal. With no drums on it's a wonder you haven't blown the guts out of your wheel cylinders. You need to install your drums and adjust your brake shoes before bleeding.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#181816 04/01/2005 1:19 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 322
Cletis,
still having problems with mightyvac...even after I INSTALLED THE DRUMS!!!sometimes I amaze myself


Blue 50

1950 3100 w/57 235
Patrick’s Saginaw 4 speed and 3:55 rear end
#181817 04/01/2005 2:51 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 579
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 579
I've had some of the same problems with my mitivac. Some tips that have helped me. Make sure vehicle is level. I use a helper 2x4. Here's the procedure. Setup mitivac and pump it up, top off master cylinder and replace filler cap. Apply brake and hold in place with the 2x4 wedged between the seat edge and the brake pedal. Release bleeder 1/4 turn only!! (otherwise air will enter the system around the bleeder screw threads) When the fluid flow dribbles down, close the bleeder, punp the brake and re-position the 2x4 helper. Repeat this process and top off the master cylinder again for every inch or so you get in the mitivac resevoir.


Larry Kephart
1937 Chevy Utility Express (Deerslayer)
1955 1st 3100 Chevy (BillyBob)
2017 Cadillac ATS-V (Elvira)
Boca Raton, Florida
e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/1998/billybob.htm
#181818 04/01/2005 2:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 20
L
Member
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 20
Never had real good luck bleeding with mity-vac either- always end up recruiting someone to pump the pedal


longtrail
It is only possible to live happily ever after one day at a time.
#181819 04/01/2005 6:23 PM
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 169
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 169
The Mity-Vac will not work well unless you seal the threads of the bleeder valves. If the valve threads ARE sealed then it works like a dream.

I have used Blue Locktite by letting it dry on the threads before screwing them in and I have used teflon tape (just make sure you don't get the tape down around the nose so that it comes loose and gets in the system).

You will also want to use a clear tubing so that you can see the bubbles that are coming out.

Beyond the Mity-Vac I have found that the little reservoir that comes with the kit is best when used with a higher volume vacume source. You just can't squeeze the handle fast enough to pull volume fast enough to "sweep out" the air.

I hook up the shop vac by putting a length of vacume hose (2') up the vac hose and turn it on. This gives a consistant high volume supply while you concentrate on cracking open the bleeder and watching bubbles and flow. JUST DON't let the master cylinder run low on fluid.

I've got pictures if you need them.

Paul

#181820 04/02/2005 1:59 AM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Mine was sucking air with the bleeder valve closed. I couldn't get a good seal with either the bare hose or the adapters that came with it.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
#181821 04/02/2005 2:16 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I only use the vac to get the process started. I always finish with the pump-and-bleed method. It gives me peace of mind that way,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!

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