The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Moving a rear axle on the spring

This is probably one of those really simple things I'm trying to over think but if someone could explain how it's done:
I've got a 50AD.
I've got a F*rd rear axle out of an Exploder, the width is right and disks breaks are nice.
Now how do I mount this thing on my stock rear springs so that they are centered in the wheel well. I observed that the mounts on the old axle were actually on the front of the axle, the F's are centered and that will move the wheels off of center in the well.
The way to correct this is...?
Thanks
Sometimes I just get lost in the process and get so hung-up on something.

Some people say all you have to do is reverse the springs. This is supposed to move the center tie bolt about 2 inches to the rear which should come pretty close to centering the wheel in the fender.

Good Lord, could it be that simple!! Please let it be so and thanks afu for giving me hope that it could just be.

I used springs from a '55 first series. The hole is exactly centered in the spring. This leads me to believe if the earlier spring were reversed, the hole would be too far aft.

Could you drill a locator hole in the right place on the Explorer spring perches?

If the Explorer spring perches line up, drill em for the center bolts. If not buy new spring mounts, drill those,clamp em in place ,check out everthing, weld them.The spring center bolt hole needs to be moved about two inches.I 've done this several times, very easy.

I had a related question: When swapping out the rear end do you have to take into account the taper of the leaf springs? I mean, do you have to weld the spring perches on a little crooked to account for the fact that the leaf spings are closer together at the front?

By the way, how did the Explorer rear end work out for ya?

Keahi

When using the original style springs, the taper is a non issue with replacement axle perches designed for 2-1/2 wide springs

Well, I did manage to get the springs turned around this weekend but I haven't had a chance to mount the axle as we decided to finish repairing my father-in-law's frame and start mounting the IFS before we forget how it's done. As it sits now it looks like it will work but...
The width, at least on the 97 Mountaineer axle I've got, looks good. How it works out for me in the end is still a ways down the build but I'll be sure to post the end results.

On our open-wheel dirt trackers, we used to drill several spring center bolt holes in the axle perches, and shorten up the wheelbase an inch at a time during the racing season. No fenders made it easy, because the wheel openings wouldn't give us away. We'd start at the minimum legal length for early-season tech inspection, and get 3" shorter by the end of the season. We had to install a shorter driveshaft every time, but short wheelbase cars got around the turns better! (It ain't cheating unless ya get caught!)
Jerry

I am in the process of a frame off resto of my '50 3100. Years ago (about 25 years, I have had it for awhile) I switched to open driveline and fabbed up spring mounts. I visually centered the axle in the wheel well and drilled the mmounting hole, which was closer to 4" forward of the axle centerline. I am going to redo the rear axle mounts and move the mounting hole to closer to an inch or two forward of centerline to move the axle visually towards the front of the wheel well. I believe this is how they should look stock. Is this correct? I know that the rear suspension is designed to move axle back under load, but I believe stock appearence without load is the wheel sitting forward in wheel well.
Steve O

there are a number places that offer a relocating and lowering block combination. fatfendered.com has an online catalogue also rbsauto.com. hope this helps. i am in the process of installing a complete spring and lowering kit from fatfendered. i would be interested to know the exact width of the rear axel you will be using. measure from wheel mounting surface to surface. its fifficult sneakink on the lots when the salesmen aren't looking and climbing under to measure. iam currently useing a 79 nova rear but had to use spacers with the tires i have it is about 3 inches over all to narrow with 235/70/15 tires. and has a 2:73 rear to low numericaly. 3:11 would be better. somewhat better since i just put on fenton headers w/dual exhaust& offenhouser intake w/ two single rochesters. ron